Clarification on 73+ brakes

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How to pop or remove the residual please?
The shop manual........which you can download several of for free, at MyMopar, shows you how to pull them apart for overhaul. You use a sheet metal screw and a claw hammer

I was in a hurry to see "if this would work" I simply took a nail, unhooked the brake tubes from the master, and pushed the nail through the valve........which is rubber or synthetic
 
Yes, the 73+ disks stick out further. A 17x7 with 4" of backspace and a 215/50/17 tire should fit because you've got a Barracuda, but it will be close enough that you might have to make a few adjustments to things like the lower fender corner to bumper braces, etc. You wouldn't be able to go any wider than that. 4.25" of backspace would be a heck of a lot better.

You can put the calipers to the front or back, but you also have to swap the spindles side to side so the bleeder stays in the right spot if you do that.
i want the american racing tor thrust II, but in a 17x7, they only come with a 4 inch backspacing :( so either that or a 17x8 with either a 4.75 or 5.5 backspace. just not sure if thatll work
 
No sir but I think the end link kits are those for/from the 73 and later sway bar ( It lands at a different clip location on the lower arm and uses a shorter link ). The only difference in any end link kit is the length of the center piece of tubing and through bolt.
This parts arrangement appeared here in similar threads. Pics were posted. Center piece appeared to be approx' 2 inches.
my car doesnt even have a sway bar right now :lol: so its hard to even see where it could contact
 
i want the american racing tor thrust II, but in a 17x7, they only come with a 4 inch backspacing :( so either that or a 17x8 with either a 4.75 or 5.5 backspace. just not sure if thatll work

Depends on what you want to run for tires. Personally I'd run the 17x8's with a 5.5" backspace if you've got the 73+ disks. You could run a 245/45/17 on that up front, shouldn't hit anything. The backspacing is close to the maximum for tie rod end clearance, but you should be ok. 5.6" is usually where the trouble starts. Not sure what you're planning to do out back, but you should be able to run anything up to a 275 with a Barracuda and stock spring locations. Or you could run 245/45/17's on the 17x8's, although if you've got the stock spring locations you'd be better off with the 4.75" backspace in the back.

If wide tires up front isn't your thing you could run 225/45/17's on the 17x8's with 4.75" of backspace.
 
Depends on what you want to run for tires. Personally I'd run the 17x8's with a 5.5" backspace if you've got the 73+ disks. You could run a 245/45/17 on that up front, shouldn't hit anything. The backspacing is close to the maximum for tie rod end clearance, but you should be ok. 5.6" is usually where the trouble starts. Not sure what you're planning to do out back, but you should be able to run anything up to a 275 with a Barracuda and stock spring locations. Or you could run 245/45/17's on the 17x8's, although if you've got the stock spring locations you'd be better off with the 4.75" backspace in the back.

If wide tires up front isn't your thing you could run 225/45/17's on the 17x8's with 4.75" of backspace.
if those 17x8 with 5.5 backspacing will fit without any problems then Id love to run them with like a 235 or 245 without pushing it. as for the rear, I do not want to do ANY modifications, so whatever the widest wheel/tire i can, still on a 17"
 
if those 17x8 with 5.5 backspacing will fit without any problems then Id love to run them with like a 235 or 245 without pushing it. as for the rear, I do not want to do ANY modifications, so whatever the widest wheel/tire i can, still on a 17"

The 17x8 with a 5.5" should fit without any problems. I think the worst case scenario is the outer tie rod end clearance will be tight, but a 3mm spacer would be no big deal and I don't consider that a problem at all. And honestly I don't think it will even be an issue, but that clearance does depend on the design of the lip on the rim so I brought it up just so there's no surprises. I wouldn't hesitate for a second to buy those rims. As for the 245's, they aren't pushing it with those rims specs. You could run a 255/45/17 on those rims if you wanted to, although they would be pushing it because of their height (26"). 245's on those rims should be fine.

In the back, assuming you have an 8 body 8 3/4 and BBP axles, the 17x8's with 4.75" of backspace are the way to go unless there's a 17x9" available. In a perfect world you'd have a 17x9 with 5" of backspace. 5.5" is too much for the stock spring locations though. Anyway, you could run 255/45/17's out back on the 17x8's with 4.75" backspace pretty safely. And in the back the 26" tall tire would look better.
 
The 17x8 with a 5.5" should fit without any problems. I think the worst case scenario is the outer tie rod end clearance will be tight, but a 3mm spacer would be no big deal and I don't consider that a problem at all. And honestly I don't think it will even be an issue, but that clearance does depend on the design of the lip on the rim so I brought it up just so there's no surprises. I wouldn't hesitate for a second to buy those rims. As for the 245's, they aren't pushing it with those rims specs. You could run a 255/45/17 on those rims if you wanted to, although they would be pushing it because of their height (26"). 245's on those rims should be fine.

In the back, assuming you have an 8 body 8 3/4 and BBP axles, the 17x8's with 4.75" of backspace are the way to go unless there's a 17x9" available. In a perfect world you'd have a 17x9 with 5" of backspace. 5.5" is too much for the stock spring locations though. Anyway, you could run 255/45/17's out back on the 17x8's with 4.75" backspace pretty safely. And in the back the 26" tall tire would look better.
what are you running? looks like the only 1 piece wheel in that series is a 17x9.5 with a 6.375 backspace
 
if those 17x8 with 5.5 backspacing will fit without any problems then Id love to run them with like a 235 or 245 without pushing it. as for the rear, I do not want to do ANY modifications, so whatever the widest wheel/tire i can, still on a 17"
OK so just so you are aware... "without any modifications" what diameter tire fits fine on Duster might not fit Dart or B'cuda. All of the wheel openings are different. And since the rear end is angled slightly, what diameter fits fine one side of the rear might rub on the other side. If my memory serves, your closest point is the lower front of the right rear.
I don't know what is the largest diameter tire you can run on the rear of second gen' B'cuda. Good luck
 
Ask for 69 Camaro with 396 & disk brakes. Lines are 15.6 inchs long. They will be spot on perfect.
So I just put one side together with the caliper at the rear and the lines seem to be okay. The hardline ends on the rear side (behind shocks) and so I don't think I need new soft lines. Am I missing something?
 
So I just put one side together with the caliper at the rear and the lines seem to be okay. The hardline ends on the rear side (behind shocks) and so I don't think I need new soft lines. Am I missing something?
There are differences in other assemblies. IF A-body spindles, calipers, etc.., The OEM correct lines do appear to be fine initially, especially while on a lift, spindle lowered. At normal operating positions, Steered to end of travel should put a kink in them where the rubber meets the short metal tube at caliper end. This high pressure hose is constructed much like a radial tire ( steel wires inside ) so they will not survive kinks. It'll fail right there. Try to bend/reshape that metal tube and you'll probably crack it at the join to the square block where the banjo bolt goes.
Take advantage of the accumulated experience in this forum... or don't. Good luck either way.
 
I gave you the answer many posts ago. But do what you want. Good luck!
 
Thanks guys, really appreciate it! And 72dart6pack, sorry if you didn't feel like I read your post, I did but just clarifying because I thought you meant running the calipers on the front side of the car. Here's a pic of why I thought I'd use these lines. Where the soft line and hard line meet is on the backside, so I didn't see a reason for the longer hose but that's why this forum is awesome! Now I don't have to find out the hard way. Thanks guys

image.jpeg
 
Here's a pic of why I thought I'd use these lines. Where the soft line and hard line meet is on the backside, so I didn't see a reason for the longer hose but that's why this forum is awesome! Now I don't have to find out the hard way. Thanks guys

View attachment 1715064087
What you don't see is when the caliper is at the OEM forward position that hose routes across diagonally. The geometry is just different, like the 2 attach points are always nearly the same distance rather than too close together and too far apart. Heck just hold that hose end up there and play/study with it.
 
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