Cleaning used short block

[younggun2.0]

Guys I got a 5,9 mag motor and have oil pan off. Cam, lifters and pushrods out. How would you guys clean up the lifter valley and inside of crank case? Disassembly of rotating assembly not an option. Just wanna clean it up inside prior to stabbing cam and degreeing. Outside of engine cleaned already

 

[70aarcuda]

I would wash/rinse engine valley with a solvent...the flip engine over on engine stand to drain...and probably dump a quart or two clean oil the flush out the any left over solvent...

 

[younggun2.0]

I would wash/rinse engine valley with a solvent...the flip engine over on engine stand to drain...and probably dump a quart or two clean oil the flush out the any left over solvent...

How do you feel about deisel fuel? It's a solvent but oil based so no rust

 

[70aarcuda]

use the solvent of your desire....

 

[69 Cuda 440]

Mineral Spirits or Prep Sol

After cleaning, rinse with a light coat of Marvel Mystery Oil.

 

[krazykuda]

Both available at Auto Zone:

View attachment Parts Cleaner A01 B2.jpg

If the left one won't get it, then the right one will....

 

[BrianT]

Be careful not for force all of the crap you're dislodging down in to the oil return holes. I like the idea of spray cleaner and a good brush. Spray down in to the return holes to flush them out.

 

[krazykuda]

Be careful not for force all of the crap you're dislodging down in to the oil return holes. I like the idea of spray cleaner and a good brush. Spray down in to the return holes to flush them out.

You could blast them out with compressed air also.

 

[moper]

View attachment 1714744871

My favorites too.

 

[krazykuda]

My favorites too.

:thumblef: :thumbrig: :thumblef:

 

[vitamindart]

yep, solvent of your choice. then a blast with good ole brake clean and compressed air.
I usually will follow up with wd40 and clean oil. the wd is for the areas to difficult to pour/wipe down with oil. and make sure you prime the engine with clean oil before start up.

 

[younggun2.0]

yep, solvent of your choice. then a blast with good ole brake clean and compressed air.
I usually will follow up with wd40 and clean oil. the wd is for the areas to difficult to pour/wipe down with oil. and make sure you prime the engine with clean oil before start up.

ya the plan is to get it all back together and prime with clean oil and priming shaft then do oil change and prime again. then start up. its mostly flaky burnt oil. looks like the previous owner stretched oil changes. just wanna get her clean as possible before assembly.

 

[krazykuda]

Before installing the cam:

Get a wire coat hanger and straighten it out. Use it to poke through all of your oil passages after blowing them clean with compressed air.

Stick it through the holes in the top of the main bearing saddles in the block and make sure that it goes all the way through to the cam tunnel.

Also poke through the oil hole in the head face to make sure that the oil holes in the cam bearings are also not blocked.

 

[GEO]

I would use brake clean spray and a shop vac.

You can use the spray and almost immediately vac it out so the crude doesn't go down in the engine.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Hot soapy water and a pressure washer. Nothin else works as well.

 

[younggun2.0]

Wouldn't that leave water in the block?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Wouldn't that leave water in the block?

Well yeah I guess if you let it sit there like a total complete dipshit and not finish the job. But if you go ahead and put it back together and dump oil in it and bust it off and drive it, it will boil any water left in it right out. That's the hands down best approach I've ever used. The key here is not to be a dipshit.

 

[cudascott]

Lol! :toothy1:

 

[pishta]

...The key here is not to be a dipshit.

Word.....;-)

 

[GEO]

Hot soapy water and a pressure washer. Nothin else works as well.

Did that on a Cadillac small V8 once. The oil drain back holes had clogged and a rod wouldn't go down them.

So removed the valve covers and oil drain plug and and blew the holes clean along with the rest of the top end.

After letting it drip for about an hour put the engine back together with fresh oil and filter and it ran the best it had in 2 years of daily driving.

But still glad it wasn't my car

 

[70aarcuda]

Well yeah I guess if you let it sit there like a total complete dipshit and not finish the job. But if you go ahead and put it back together and dump oil in it and bust it off and drive it, it will boil any water left in it right out. That's the hands down best approach I've ever used. The key here is not to be a dipshit.

I think if you read his original post...he is not disassembly the short block...only dropping the pan and has the intake off......so washing with water would not be a smart move....LOL

 

[younggun2.0]

I think if you read his original post...he is not disassembly the short block...only dropping the pan and has the intake off......so washing with water would not be a smart move....LOL

The key here is to not be a dip **** lol. It's a slow process. I have most if the parts but not all of them. The truck is also a runner and I don't wanna tear it apart till I'm fully ready for the swap

 

[jbc426]

After you get it clean, I used that purple Castrol cleaner and hot water, then blew it out good with compressed air and let it bake in the sun for a few hours. Threw in some new rod bearings, a fresh double roller and a bigger cam, and then ran a quart or two of automatic transmission fluid with the oil when I got it running. That will clean it out good. Change the oil more frequently until it starts to stay clean longer. It dried out good.

It lasted over a year, and was still turning mid 13's when I took it out. It always had only 90 psi in the #2 cylinder. There were no cross hatch marks on the cylinders when I inspected the #2 cylinder. It was just a high mile motor that used 2 quarts of oil a tank.

The 408 that's replacing it is getting a little better treatment. It's amazing what a little cleaner, some elbow grease and some paint will do.