Rustyfish
Member
So in the first pics you can see the rust stains in the backing plates for the small gauges. I wire wheeled those and sprayed them with a rust converter. Later I'll spray those with some flat black.
Most of that is typical sunburn. The scar might have always been there since its in a spot not seen. So the needle goes all the way home. That's a good sign.
Do you find what looks like black pepper inside the can? Tap it on the table and the stuff falls out? Thats a bad sign.
If you have a Ohms meter you can get more info. Resistance post to post, ( I think this is a 20 ohm example ), if not 20 ohms, its 13 ohms. Open or infinite from post to can. Anything different is a bad sign.
Ohm A post to housing= 49.7The 3 post gauge has the mechanical voltage limiter inside it. So your debris is/was carbon build up on nichrome windings. It came from that limiter, the fuel gauge, or more likely both.
I=input=12 volts. A=altered or adjusted voltage. Approx' 5 volts pulse fed to the fuel gauge internally and out to the other thermal gauge(s) via that post and circuit board(s). S=sender.
A to S at 20.7 is close enough. Check each post to the housing.
Did the other thermal gauges work like they should?
Footnote for the others reading here... 2 post gauges are using those posts marked I and S. The input was altered elsewhere.
OK A lot of technical crap to say "bad limiter" at minimum. The limiter is a set of mechanical points. If those points were closed as they should be the resistance from I to A would be zero. Its supposed to be zero.
To continue...
A to S and I to S would be the same 20
I to housing should be 50.
A to housing would be 50 also.
S to housing would back feed to show 70 or the total of both windings 50+20
A .X to X.X ohm variance from these readings could come from you meter leads.
So your 20.7 is really 20. I'll guess your meter leads together show .7
If I wasn't retired I would suggest you ship all 3 thermal gauges to me.
You did get me to open the book so that's something. LOL Good luck with them.
Thanks Cosgig I think I saw that somewhere in my searching. I’ll give that a try.Maybe some 3m plastic polish/ cleaner would do the trick! It is actually for lenses, and I've cleaned up a few taillight lenses with it!
It has, it's under a cover and in a garage. It won't be out and subjected to the elements like it was before I got it. But actually getting to new gaskets and seals for the body will be far down the road. Getting it mechanically sound and driveable first which will be this spring. Still have to rebuild front end and install LD4B and Edelbrock. Then I can start working on aesthetics.I hope the water leak issue has been or is being addressed.
I always worry about paint lifting when having to mask an already painted surface especially on plastic. I'll give it a try. I was going to use the depression that gets blacked out as a masking transition area in between the chrome and argent.The OEM process was to chrome the entire face side. The argent, black, and white detail painting went on top of the chrome. I think that would be the plan with any paint.
Where is there white detail paint? Aside from the letters on the gauge lenses I can't think of where that would be.The OEM process was to chrome the entire face side. The argent, black, and white detail painting went on top of the chrome. I think that would be the plan with any paint.
Thanks for those. Is there chrome inside the gauge rings? Also, does the chrome go all the way down on the sides?
The various/general colors don't apply to every example. Many do have white lettering. Sorry for any confusion.Where is there white detail paint? Aside from the letters on the gauge lenses I can't think of where that would be.
Cool. That looks like the black was painted first, doesn't it? The chrome wore away and there was black underneath.