Clutch fan vs derale single 2400cfm fan

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MoparMark91 said:
Stock mounts except I might switch my engine mounts to the mighty mounts soon. You can get your index finger in between the two and that's about it I want to say half inch or so
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If you're mounts are in good shape, you're probably okay. I've got about 1/4" on mine with stock mounts and most would say it's too close, though it's never touched - even hard on the brakes on a 107mph pass at the track. Of course I've got a limiter bolt on the driver's side biscuit motor mount. Not sure if that helps control fore/aft movement much though.

If you're worried about it, you could always make up some type of fore/aft limiter.
 
mopowers said:
If you're mounts are in good shape, you're probably okay. I've got about 1/4" on mine with stock mounts and most would say it's too close, though it's never touched - even hard on the brakes on a 107mph pass at the track. Of course I've got a limiter bolt on the driver's side biscuit motor mount. Not sure if that helps control fore/aft movement much though.

If you're worried about it, you could always make up some type of fore/aft limiter.
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It's not the hard braking that shifts the engine, - it's when you mis-judge where to stop at a curb, and bounce the puppy off that .
I wouldn't hesitate to run that we're it my car, or a customers .
I have run a chain from the bell housing bolt to the trans xmember in tighter situations.

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/fan-clearance-005-jpg.1714706262/
 
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inertia said:
It's not the hard braking that shifts the engine, - it's when you mis-judge where to stop at a curb, and bounce the puppy off that .
I wouldn't hesitate to run that we're it my car, or a customers .
I have run a chain from the bell housing bolt to the trans xmember in tighter situations.

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/fan-clearance-005-jpg.1714706262/
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Well, I guess it's a good thing I don't make it a habit of bouncing my cars off of curbs. I never knew that was even a thing.
 
1/2” clearance is plenty. I’ve had 3/8” of clearance from the fan clutch to the radiator on my ‘68 barracuda with small block. Never an issue.
 
Seems like you already have the radiator. Your answer for using your Hayden clutch drive #2947 with a Cold Case radiator is the cast iron water pump, it's 3/4" shorter than that aluminum one you have. The catch is, the inlet is on the driver's side.
 
So today I had everything together. Cold case radiator 22" with the thicker tubes. I had the 7 blade fan with Hayden clutch took it for a drive today to test it. Of course to works great at anything about 25 but traffic lights and stop signs it didn't do good. Temp got up to 202 so next option Taurus fan I guess. If the clutch and 7 blade fan couldn't handle 80 degree or so stop and go then it definitely won't do good in hotter traffic
 
I have the same set up with a Milodon pump, and shroud. I haven't had any issues. Fairly well built 418, street car. There other things that can affect cooling, every combination is different.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
I have the same set up with a Milodon pump, and shroud. I haven't had any issues. Fairly well built 418, street car. There other things that can affect cooling, every combination is different.
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You had a clutch setup or electric fan?
 
Hayden #2947.

20220317_174056.jpg
 
Before I would spend a lot of funds on aftermarket fans or components, I would experiment on changing the fan pullies sizes or diameters. A smaller pulley would speed the fan movement at idle, while a larger one would slow the flow, but also change the water movement at the pump. Sometimes slowing down the water flow will help in cooling, while a speedy flow will not allow the water to cool fast enough in the radiator. You need to find the right medium to your app.. Also make sure your clutch is functioning correctly. You want a drag, but not too much or you will a little HP.
 
rumblefish360 said:
It would seem so but I don’t know for sure. I’d bet there’s a bit of science behind the use of less blades. One example is the MP Viscous fan package offered for years and years that came with 5 blades oddly spaced apart. All I know about it is, it really moves some air!
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I believe the oddly spaced fan blades chopped up the running audible tone of the fan. Ever seen the Chrysler air raid siren? Its a rotating disk with slats in it that produces a loud tone. The blades that had a high blade count were probably like to move air as the were shorter blades and the center was so big. My 65 came with a X looking fan, 4 blades! Listen to a Huey 2 blade chopper and then a Sikorsky CH-53 that has 6 blades. Whap whap whap compared to a dull roar.
 
MoparMark91 said:
Question guys I know this has been covered in other posts but want to see what u guys think.

So in front of me I have a Hayden clutch with a 18" fan. I do have a plastic Mopar shroud but doesn't seal the best.

I also have in front of me is this derale setup with wiring and relay and better alternator. I'll attach screen shot


I currently am running a flex fan that I want to do away with. The choice is mine since both in front of me but the problem I am currently having with the flex fan is once driving around totally fine except really hot days it does climb temp. When I idle in traffic it will go from 180 to 200 in about 4 minutes or so. I'll attached my current setup picture from when I measured before work

I bought a knock off champion radiator off eBay awhile back to replace my champion radiator that my flex fan destroyed during engine break in. Fan literally exploded.

I bought a cold case 2 row 1.25 tube size and want to pair it with best cooling option of the two and want to do away with my flex fan.

View attachment 1715888801

View attachment 1715888803
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Use the clutch fan and dont look back, they work great.
Mother Mopar used them for a reason.
 
How many PSI is the cap you have? PSI raises the boiling point
Did it get to 202 and stay there? I would wait for a hot day before going through the work of changing a bunch of stuff myself. Even if its 30 degrees out, my truck gets to 210, but then stays there. I'm not worried that its going to go higher or give me problems if/when it gets to 100.
 
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I'm using a Champion 4 row with a Deraile stainless flex fan rated to 10,000 rpm with a custom shroud on my 340, 69 Dart, its working well. Also using Evans Waterless Coolant and a 180 degree thermostat. I have yet to see Temps over 190 degrees.

20200919_113622.jpg
 
Yeah is love to run clutch fan but I don't get why I still got issues. Engine is healthy and runs great got my sniper EFI on there as well. My timing is 12 initial and 34 total so I feel like I'm good there, it wasn't even hot yesterday maybe around 80 and it got up to 200 in traffic and would of kept going unless I started moving
 
Damn
CRUZE 418 said:
I have 22 initial, 34 total.
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22 initial holy crap yeah maybe I can play with my timing a little see if I can do something better it's a 340 stroked to 373 and I just went with the 12 and 34 and thought it would be good
 
There are others with far more knowledge than me about this. They will get in here soon. I run the FBO ign. Stock Mopar dist, FBO module, bypass the ballast, 1.5 or 6 ohm coil and have FBO's limiter plate in the dist to limit total advance to 34°. The vacuum advance is adj to FBO's instructions. I do have aluminum cyl heads, trick flows. Like I said earlier, every combination is different.
 
Had a 7 blade clutch fan on my 1974 Charger SE. At 5,000 RPM it sounded like a P-51 Mustang. Bought the DC 5 blade unit and it knocked the sound down a lot. And my gas mileage went from 16 to 18 MPG commuting to Ft Lewis every day.

I have a dual Hyden 26 inch wide electric with dual controls and stepped speeds. On my sons 71 383, 4bbl, 10.5:1, Hughes Cam, shorty headers in his 74 Dodge D-200 727 it never gets above 195F, what the thermostat is. With an open air cleaner the fans cycle on a lot, even doing 25 MPH. Run two dryer vent expanding hoses under the bumper to a 72 Road Runner's dual snorkel air cleaner and the fans never cycle while driving and very slow cycling idling.

Maybe the OP is sucking HOT underhood air in. Leave those chrome OPEN RACECAR air cleaners to the DORF and CHEBBY folks.

I had the same issue with the 383 in my 1965 Barracuda. No where for the hot air to escape and the open air cleaned would peculate my carb. Dual snorkel fix it.
 
It depends on your application, I have a derale unit, it worked fine and pushed a lot of air (2400cfm), but then it died after 2 years of use aprox. It did not last as expected. I bought the replacement fan and it works fine now, but not sure it it will last longer. A few years ago I changed my Rangers mechanical fan for a universal electric one from summit (dont remember the brand) and never had a problem in 10 years I owned the vehicle.

for intake I have a hood intake sealed from the engine compartment, works perfect.
 
MoparMark91 said:
Of course to works great at anything about 25 but traffic lights and stop signs it didn't do good. Temp got up to 202
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202 is nothing to worry about. You can test this in your driveway. IIRC you have a stick. So drive the car till it is up to temp.

Drive home park in the driveway and let it idle for 30 minutes if it gets up to 202 or even 205 -210 but stays there then you do not have an issue.

Thermostats have a range, yours might just be at the high end of the range, like 195 rating but 199 actual.
 
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MoparMark91 said:
Damn

22 initial holy crap yeah maybe I can play with my timing a little see if I can do something better it's a 340 stroked to 373 and I just went with the 12 and 34 and thought it would be good
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Grab as much initial as you can. To much is when the starter complains. If it complains when the engine is cold, to far, recheck when the engine is hot. If the start complains when the engine is hot, retard until it stops bitchen. Figure out how much that is and recurve your distributor.

The more initial you have (to a point) the better your car will jump off the line and respond better.

At your 12-34, it should feel good. I myself would try (experiment with) a 2* less timing. If you race the track, you may see something. For some reason, I don’t think that 340/373 stroker has iron heads and exhaust manifolds on it.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Grab as much initial as you can. To much is when the starter complains. If it complains when the engine is cold, to far, recheck when the engine is hot. If the start complains when the engine is hot, retard until it stops bitchen. Figure out how much that is and recurve your distributor.

The more initial you have (to a point) the better your car will jump off the line and respond better.

At your 12-34, it should feel good. I myself would try (experiment with) a 2* less timing. If you race the track, you may see something. For some reason, I don’t think that 340/373 stroker has iron heads and exhaust manifolds on it.
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No it's got Edelbrock ported heads and Doug's headers, so your thinking take 2 degrees of timing out?
 
MoparMark91 said:
No it's got Edelbrock ported heads and Doug's headers, so your thinking take 2 degrees of timing out?
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If you run the track, try it. If you don’t run the track, don’t bother, even more so if it doesn’t ping.
 
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