Clutch not disengaging

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Turk

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I have the street performance McLeod clutch kit from Brewers and have no more room for adjustment with the throw out bearing and the clutch isn't engaging at all the transmission wont even grind or go into gear in 1-4 with the car running, but as soon as it's off it goes through gears no problem, it does grind trying to get into reverse if you try to put it in gear the clutch pedal is also only returning half way up and has pressure 3/4 from the floor the throw out can't be adjusted anymore because it is almost touching the fingers. This is an 833 360
 
I believe you are confused, that is "reversed." Sounds as if the clutch is ALWAYS engaged, and instead, is not "releasing."

Did it ever work right? That is "it did work" and now you are replacing a worn clutch, or is this a "new" build with new or used parts?

Might be a clutch problem, "new" does not mean "functional"

Might be pilot bearing too tight or even something bent, or maybe you have a crank not drilled deep enough, the pilot shaft is hitting "bottom."
 
My guess is wrong bellhousing / shift fork / pivot point for shift fork /.
My money is on the wrong pivot bracket for the shift fork, A,B, and E, body are different.
 
67Dart273 said:
I believe you are confused, that is "reversed." Sounds as if the clutch is ALWAYS engaged, and instead, is not "releasing."

Did it ever work right? That is "it did work" and now you are replacing a worn clutch, or is this a "new" build with new or used parts?

Might be a clutch problem, "new" does not mean "functional"

Might be pilot bearing too tight or even something bent, or maybe you have a crank not drilled deep enough, the pilot shaft is hitting "bottom."
Click to expand...

It's a new clutch with a motor and tranny swap it self, I measured the crank depth and bushing size before putting the tranny in and everything fit nicely
 
sireland67 said:
My guess is wrong bellhousing / shift fork / pivot point for shift fork /.
My money is on the wrong pivot bracket for the shift fork, A,B, and E, body are different.
Click to expand...

Everything z bar related was bought off of Brewers so as far as that everything should be the right part, could it possibly be from having the clutch rod in the wrong way, meaning the bend where it meets the z bar facing the z bar or facing the wheel well?
 
Since it's parts and put together and never been "proved" anything is possible. Wrong bell/ pivot / fork, etc real hard to say. You might have to measure some of the parts for length to the pivots, and either get help from guys on here who have known good parts, or contact Brewer directly.

Please do NOT discount the idea of a bad / mismatched clutch PP or disk. Are you SURE the disc is in correctly, should have the "large" (raised) part of the hub facing rear. In my lifetime, myself, and two friends, I've seen at least three new, out of the box PP that would not release or operate correctly.

The fact that you are describing the pedal "has pressure 3/4 to the top" seems to indicate that you need more length for more depression of the pressure plate. Are you saying that there is a large amount of "pedal" at the top that is not doing anything?
 
A quick check of the adjuster; There should be 6 or 7 inches of it, behind the mounting eye, and there should be a swivel on the fork end, before it gets mounted. I have seen some too-short-to-work rods.
 
67Dart273 said:
Since it's parts and put together and never been "proved" anything is possible. Wrong bell/ pivot / fork, etc real hard to say. You might have to measure some of the parts for length to the pivots, and either get help from guys on here who have known good parts, or contact Brewer directly.

Please do NOT discount the idea of a bad / mismatched clutch PP or disk. Are you SURE the disc is in correctly, should have the "large" (raised) part of the hub facing rear. In my lifetime, myself, and two friends, I've seen at least three new, out of the box PP that would not release or operate correctly.

The fact that you are describing the pedal "has pressure 3/4 to the top" seems to indicate that you need more length for more depression of the pressure plate. Are you saying that there is a large amount of "pedal" at the top that is not doing anything?
Click to expand...

The disk was labeled with the flywheel Side so that eliminates that, I'll check and measure the pivots and everything, and the pedal is soft until its about 3/4 from the floor and comes back resting behind the brake pedal and not back where it should be
 
AJ/FormS said:
A quick check of the adjuster; There should be 6 or 7 inches of it, behind the mounting eye, and there should be a swivel on the fork end, before it gets mounted. I have seen some too-short-to-work rods.
Click to expand...

Would the length be a problem even if the bearing is almost touching the plate fingers?
 
Turk said:
The disk was labeled with the flywheel Side so that eliminates that, I'll check and measure the pivots and everything, and the pedal is soft until its about 3/4 from the floor and comes back resting behind the brake pedal and not back where it should be
Click to expand...

That sounds like a linkage problem, not enough travel. I don't know a thing about Brewers, are they used parts?

EG a couple of cars I've see the z bar break that is crack in the tube, so that the levers bend away from the tube, stuff like that. Depending on the parts, it might be that the linkage is coming off the Z bar in such a way as to "use up" the travel. Hard to say without photos and maybe someone working the linkage while you watch underneath, etc
 
Turk said:
I have the street performance McLeod clutch kit from Brewers....................
Click to expand...

Is this a Borg and Beck or diaphragm pressure plate? Brewer's lists both.

Do you have an over center spring on the pedal or not?
 
If you are certain you have the right parts...
Take the cover plate off the bottom of the bell housing, have somebody push the clutch in and see if the pressure plate is releasing.

Put a new Zoom flywheel, and entire clutch kit in my Duster when I put it together.
It would not go in gear with the car running.
Had the trans out 5 times, Zoom tech department on the phone twice until they admitted it was a defective pressure plate.
Sent everything back and put a centerforce in, problem solved.
 
There was a guy from Australia on here not long ago, and he worked and worked on the same problem. Turned out it was mostly the motor and trans misaligned with the body. The Z- bar was not properly level and that will take away from some of the throw capability of the linkage. The fact that your throwout bearing is almost at the fingers, and the clutch pedal is not coming up all the way says you have a short or misaligned linkage issue or throwout arm/ pivot issue.

Any pix you could post might help.
 
Daves69 said:
Is this a Borg and Beck or diaphragm pressure plate? Brewer's lists both.

Do you have an over center spring on the pedal or not?
Click to expand...

It's a diaphragm plate and I already took out the spring and put a lighter smaller spring in just so the pedal would have some type of return kick to it
 
sireland67 said:
If you are certain you have the right parts...
Take the cover plate off the bottom of the bell housing, have somebody push the clutch in and see if the pressure plate is releasing.

Put a new Zoom flywheel, and entire clutch kit in my Duster when I put it together.
It would not go in gear with the car running.
Had the trans out 5 times, Zoom tech department on the phone twice until they admitted it was a defective pressure plate.
Sent everything back and put a centerforce in, problem solved.
Click to expand...

That's what I was planning on doing tomorrow I had someone press the clutch while I was underneath checking everything lready but maybe I'll adjust and play with it all again and see if I can find any difference.
 
nm9stheham said:
There was a guy from Australia on here not long ago, and he worked and worked on the same problem. Turned out it was mostly the motor and trans misaligned with the body. The Z- bar was not properly level and that will take away from some of the throw capability of the linkage. The fact that your throwout bearing is almost at the fingers, and the clutch pedal is not coming up all the way says you have a short or misaligned linkage issue or throwout arm/ pivot issue.

Any pix you could post might help.
Click to expand...

So what you're saying is I could try maneuvering the motor and tranny around and see if that might help to fix the problem or is it more of adjustment/ moving the zbar /pivots?
 
Turk said:
It's a diaphragm plate and I already took out the spring and put a lighter smaller spring in just so the pedal would have some type of return kick to it
Click to expand...


First make sure you didn't drop the fork off the release bearing spring clips.
Make sure your fork is seated correctly on the pivot fulcrum.

I know you stated you ran the adjustment to where your bearing is almost on the fingers. Do you still have more adjustment available on the rod and the pedal is not all the way up? If so, I think I'd adjust it more see what it takes to get enough plate departure. Worry about the bearing to finger clearance after.
 
Turk said:
So what you're saying is I could try maneuvering the motor and tranny around and see if that might help to fix the problem or is it more of adjustment/ moving the zbar /pivots?
Click to expand...
Both... and I agree that you should do that after you check your clutch fork setup. Did you take a pix of the fork and fork pivot point by any chance, that you could post? There are several different forks and pivots. You can look on the Brewer's site to see the pix, and see if you think you have the correct ones for your particular application.

Here is that thread on the disengagement problems and his adjustments; read through to the end:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=322064
 
Turk said:
Would the length be a problem even if the bearing is almost touching the plate fingers?
Click to expand...
No, if almost means within .030.

Hey, if the pedal sticks to the floor the diaphragm is overcentering. You may actually be dis-engaging too far! Do you in fact have some free-play at the top of the stroke where nothing at all happens?
The soft comment has me puzzled,tho. It sounds like something is flexing, almost like the fork is not properly engaged with the release bearing, but rather sitting on top of the spring-clips.
That would pretty much account for all your symptoms.
Oops, I see that this has been mentioned already.
 
nm9stheham said:
Both... and I agree that you should do that after you check your clutch fork setup. Did you take a pix of the fork and fork pivot point by any chance, that you could post? There are several different forks and pivots. You can look on the Brewer's site to see the pix, and see if you think you have the correct ones for your particular application.

Here is that thread on the disengagement problems and his adjustments; read through to the end:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=322064
Click to expand...

I think I found the problem, sorry for the delay been busy the passed few days, but the clutch fork is moving around on the throw out before it presses it down, the clip for the fork was loose when I first got it(used) but I thought I fixed it and got it back into place, the fork moves over and then down on the bearing
 
I'm having this problem too. But it's probably because I had to modify my z-bar due to Doug's Headers.

I went from 3 speed to 4 speed so I know all my linkages and bell housing and everything worked. I mean, everything worked when I had the 3 speed in the car. Now it's a 4 speed.

Seems like our issues are the same. I have the same clutch as well. seems like there's very little movement of the clutch release arm when you press the pedal all thew way.

In my case, there seems to be a lot of slop in every linkage in the system. Not sure if you're experiencing the same thing too.

I'm not sure if someone has pointed this out, but do you have the return spring that attaches to some point on the bell housing to the clutch fork?
 
That little spring is important. It keeps the release bearing from spinning full-time against the pp, which would wear it out in a jiffy. It does a good job of suppressing rattle, too.

Edit
Yeah they call it an anti rattle spring. I guess my humor really is as bad as they say, cuz the last sentence above was a dig at their nomenclature.
 
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