cold feet about potential bad lifters

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Update, car was making some noise I thought it was an exhaust leak but my curiosity got the best of me and I pulled the valve covers. Cyl5 intake rocker just rattles around and both cyl 2 and 6 have a little bit of lash when they're down... Looks like something went wrong. Draining coolant and pulling the intake after work tomorrow
 
68Valiant225 said:
Update, car was making some noise I thought it was an exhaust leak but my curiosity got the best of me and I pulled the valve covers. Cyl5 intake rocker just rattles around and both cyl 2 and 6 have a little bit of lash when they're down... Looks like something went wrong. Draining coolant and pulling the intake after work tomorrow
Click to expand...

Bummer... sorry I keep asking lol but did you use regular Lunati lifters or the Micro-Trol ones?

I was planning to go with Crower CamSaver lifters (flat milled down the side to provide constant oil flow to the cam) but looks like I missed my chance, Summit says they're "Not Available". Looks like there's a serious shortage of lifters right now overall.
 
MopaR&D said:
Bummer... sorry I keep asking lol but did you use regular Lunati lifters or the Micro-Trol ones?

I was planning to go with Crower CamSaver lifters (flat milled down the side to provide constant oil flow to the cam) but looks like I missed my chance, Summit says they're "Not Available". Looks like there's a serious shortage of lifters right now overall.
Click to expand...

I got the micro-trols. Ballpark hundred bucks for the set.
 
Digging in a bit tonight. It seems more like the lifter is collapsed internally than the cam is flat. I have a dial indicator on it, measured .290 on the cam and .150 at the rocker. Not exactly sure what to make of this
 
Ok after observing the shiny chunks in the oil in some of the pockets in the valley, and measuring .303 lobes as .265, the cam is toast.
Now I need a new plan, still trying to keep it budget but willing to put a new motor in it if need be. Kinda scared of running flat tappet lifters again so I'm considering Magnum or roller LA
 
It looks like the Hughes engines setup is pretty good. From where I'm at now, it would be an additional $1100 investment. What're the odds that summit racing gives me any money back as warranty from the break-in fail?
 
At this point, I would consider nothing bot solid lifters flat tappet or roller. Also, IMO, a complete tear down is the only way at this point to get all the metal out. I wonder what the bearings look like?
 
Damn that really sucks, to basically have a bad feeling about something failing, only for it to occur, just sounds like inevitable doom anymore. We’ve got a rebuilt hft cam 360 on the stand waiting to go back in the car and the thought of this happening is there.

Not to Monday morning armchair things, but what oil and cam lube did you use? And how much cranking did you do after it wouldn’t restart?
 
Rinse and Repeat

JegsSPD22.png


Available at Jegs
JegSPD22.png

All Melling Products so they are all compatible, even the cam lube has the melling lable.

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If you are really concerned about the cam not breaking in right, I would take a set of used stock 318 non-rotator valve springs and install them to break in the cam. You want a spring with softer pressure so as to polish the new lifter to the new cam lobe. Don't want excessive pressure there on them on first start up, you just want them to mate together. Then after break in and everything is properly mated and oil and filter change, then you can put on your desired valve springs.

Recommended cam and lifter matched sets.
 
This still seems to be working fine using a Summit cam and the cheapest hydraulic lifters they have.......still have 60psi oil pressure when hot...........

Cody's 440 005.JPG

Cody's 440 005.JPG
 
12many said:
Damn that really sucks, to basically have a bad feeling about something failing, only for it to occur, just sounds like inevitable doom anymore. We’ve got a rebuilt hft cam 360 on the stand waiting to go back in the car and the thought of this happening is there.

Not to Monday morning armchair things, but what oil and cam lube did you use? And how much cranking did you do after it wouldn’t restart?
Click to expand...
Used the supplied cam lube, so whatever summit shipped it with. Used amsoil break in oil, 30wt.
And after it wouldn't restart we cranked it a lot but that was after the 30 minute break in. Not that that guarantees anything
 
RustyRatRod said:
At this point, I would consider nothing bot solid lifters flat tappet or roller. Also, IMO, a complete tear down is the only way at this point to get all the metal out. I wonder what the bearings look like?
Click to expand...
Is there a 90% confidence way to flush the block without pulling it all the way apart? Still maybe trying to avoid major expenses both time and money but I also don't particularly want metal in the engine.
And my 200k mile bearings probably weren't in the best shape before the cam came and went
 

68Valiant225 said:
Is there a 90% confidence way to flush the block without pulling it all the way apart? Still maybe trying to avoid major expenses both time and money but I also don't particularly want metal in the engine.
And my 200k mile bearings probably weren't in the best shape before the cam came and went
Click to expand...


Not really. When you lose a lobe it puts so much garbage through the engine there is no good way to really clean it by taking it all apart.

Plus, if it ran long enough it can put a bunch of trash through the bearings and even the piston skirts. So you need to be looking at stuff too.

It’s a big crap sandwich and you’re going to have to take a big bite of it. It sucks but that’s what it is.
 
68Valiant225 said:
Is there a 90% confidence way to flush the block without pulling it all the way apart? Still maybe trying to avoid major expenses both time and money but I also don't particularly want metal in the engine.
And my 200k mile bearings probably weren't in the best shape before the cam came and went
Click to expand...
So, am I reading the engine has 200K on it? So then you're saying the bearings have 200K worth of wear and now on top of that you've had metal through the engine from a camshaft failure and you want to leave those same 200K mile DAMAGED parts in the engine. Is that what I'm reading?

Does that sound smart to you?
 
RustyRatRod said:
So, am I reading the engine has 200K on it? So then you're saying the bearings have 200K worth of wear and now on top of that you've had metal through the engine from a camshaft failure and you want to leave those same 200K mile DAMAGED parts in the engine. Is that what I'm reading?

Does that sound smart to you?
Click to expand...

Oh you're definitely right, I'm just slowly coming to terms with it. Guess I'm building my first engine this year.
 
At 200,000 miles I am sure your cam bearings were toast. Don't imagine you took a flashlight and looked in on them before you slipped in that new cam.

All part of learning how to build engines. The ones that burn down are the best teachers.

Yes, we have all had them burn down.

2012-03-01141949.jpg
 
Since this project has now evolved, I'm probably going to start a new thread with rebuild details, etc. I'll be doing a bunch of research, and I currently have the William Burt "how to rebuild small block mopars" book as well as the 1968 FSM at my disposal. Any threads that you all think are must reads would be rad. I've got a couple questions about hughes engines parts, I'm tentatively planning on using them to supply all or most of the valvetrain but also want to salvage some of the parts I've got in the engine like my brand new valve springs and timing gear.
 
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