Collaborative early a experiment

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Treblig

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I have been thinking about this for some time now and finally got around to doing it. I'm looking for a volunteer/guinea pig/associate. Here are the qualifications: You must live withing 1000 miles (more or less, will explain later), you must be innovative and unafraid, you must own an early A (preferably 65/66), you must be installing or using a small block (preferably non-poly, not sure how the exhaust would seal), 70s and up smog heads are preferable (more exhaust sealing surface), you must know how to fabricate or at least solve mechanical problems, your car should be automatic (preferably console, although auto column shift may work), must have manual steering and you must have a way of taking and posting good pics here on FABO.
Now that we've weeded out those who do not qualify (there can be exceptions) I will explain. I sell manifolds, many FABO members have probably seen my ads selling 340, 360 magnum and Dakota manifolds. But this post is NOT about selling manifolds, it's about helping early A body owners. I have no problem selling my manifolds..the only problem I have is keeping them in stock. What I propose is this: I have had many, many early A owners ask if my 340/360 manifolds will fit in their cars. I tell them that I have seen posts by other members who show that "some" of these manifolds will fit in an early A. I say "some" because there are two different castings of the LARGE HOLE 340 driver's manifold, this is where it gets interesting....the late 60s 340 driver is designed sleeker and less bulky than the 70s 340 manifold (see pics). The late 60s 340 rises up quicker and higher than the bulky 70s 340. It also pulls away from the steering box more than the 70s 340 and has more clearance in the steering shaft area. For these reasons I'm looking for someone who would be willing to attempt to install and document the use of the 60s 340 manifold along with one of my "machined" 360 magnum passenger manifolds. This is a unique chance for someone to get a lot more exhaust flow with very little risk. I say very little risk because I had to spend hundreds of dollars to find the manifolds that work best for the 67/68/69 and up A bodies. I lost some of that money because some of the manifolds didn't work out. I propose to find the right person (persons) to buy (temporarily anyway) a set of these manifolds, install them in their early A, and document it as best as possible here on FABO. What's in it for you???? Good question!! If it works out you will have a set of the best flowing cast iron manifolds you can get. What's in it for FABO Early A members??? They will know, with no uncertainty that the late 60s 340 will work in their cars and what (if any) modifications are required. Yes I know, others here are going to say, "Yes, it's been done" or "Yes, I did it to my car!!". I just haven't seen it documented in a way that reassures others that it's doable without making too many changes or without having to spend unreasonable amounts of money. I can not, in good conscious, sell the late 60s 340 to an early A member and let them waste their money on a manifold that will not work. What's in it for me??? Another good question. Not much really because ALL the manifolds I sell will fit the 67 and up A bodies and I will sell them whether the EXPERIMENT works or not. My purpose is to give early A owners access to better exhaust options without having to spend a fortune on headers.
So, the person I pick would have to be willing to pay for the manifolds up front along with the shipping costs. If "FOR ANY REASON" they don't/won't work (must be documented for others to see) I will refund the cost of the manifolds and pay for shipping back to me so I can resell them to someone else (67 and up A bodies). Of course the manifolds must be returned in good condition for you to get your money back (no cracks/breaks/damage). What does the buyer have to risk??? Well, he/she will have to be willing to absorb the cost of shipping one way, JUST LIKE ME!! So it comes out even Steven, I lose the shipping back to me and the buyer losing shipping to him/her. I am willing to lose the shipping costs to help other early A owners get better exhaust. Pay Pal will allow a full refund within 30 days with no penalty, but I will not hold the buyer to the 30 day window.
The reason I'm looking for someone within 1000 miles is to keep shipping cost down for both of us. I don't like losing money any more than the next guy!!

To the FABO moderators..if my proposal is improper or violates any forum rules please let me know and delete this post!!

Lastly, I know I will get some suggestions from others who have done this before (at least I hope I will) which should give the "volunteer" some incentive. This post is only about using the late 60s 340 manifold ONLY so please keep it real. If you can show any problems you ran into and how you solved them it would be great. My only purpose here is to help Early A owners, voluntarily losing one way shipping costs isn't something I normally do.

Thank You and,
Let the games begin..............
Treblig
 

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Interesting idea Treblig, and I'm sure someone will step up to volunteer a test fit. I can not answer for the 340 manifold on the left side, but the right side magnum log is WAY tight.. See our fitment here for that: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=249147


Thank You "ragtopfury", that was an excellent example of the kind of help that is needed to get this on the road to success!! I would allow the volunteer to grind off the casting numbers and pentastar as it would be required to determine if the manifolds would fit and wouldn't devalue the manifold IMO. I also love the link to the thread you posted and appreciate the support. You did say "right side" magnum??? Did you know that they made the magnum in two different styles, one with a large hole and one with a small hole (hardly anybody wants the small hole) but I don't know if there is any difference in the overall manifold width (from the motor to the inner fender). In the link you posted, do you know if the magnum manifold was the large hole or the small hole?? Might make a big difference.

PS - I forgot to mention two things....I own a 69 Barracuda so any information gained by this experiment will not help me in any way and second, I will bump this thread to the top every few days so that everyone that owns an Early A has the opportunity/chance to read this and possibly volunteer.
Thanks,
Treblig
 
No prob. Grinding the numbers and star off wasn't quite enough, hence machining 1/16 off the mating surface. In hindsight, I should have had 1/8 machines off as there is only enough clearance on the right side inner fender to slip a single business card between the manifold and the inner fender. I honestly don't know if they are the larger ones or not. They are from a 99 318 Durango.
 
No prob. Grinding the numbers and star off wasn't quite enough, hence machining 1/16 off the mating surface. In hindsight, I should have had 1/8 machines off as there is only enough clearance on the right side inner fender to slip a single business card between the manifold and the inner fender. I honestly don't know if they are the larger ones or not. They are from a 99 318 Durango.

More extremely valuable information!! So if I could get a local machine shop to cut me a good deal on a bunch of these it might keep the price low enough to make it worth it for some Early A owners. I would probably only cut 3/32" (1/32" more than you did) so as not to weaken the ears. I just measured a 360 mag (large hole) manifold ear and it was 7/16" thick (stock). If you used 99 318 Durango they were probably the small hole because AFAIK the passenger large hole was only made in 96/97/98 but I could be wrong???. Also, I see no reason why I couldn't remove another 1/64" - 1/32" off the side of the manifold itself (where the casting number lives) because that sucker is thick!!!


PS - I can't believe how much info I have received in such a short time!!!!:blob:
Treblig
 
Just to help answer more questions, how is plug acess with the magnum manifolds in an early a body?

And is there a difference in thickness among magnum manifolds that may cause width fitment issues?

Hope this helps. Eric L
 
So simply by shimming the motor 1/4" you were able to get the driver's side Dakota to clear the steering (and machining 1/16" off mating surface)?? Do you have the casting number off the Dakota?? The details are what make this possible or impossible. Also the passenger's side looks like there is more space than just a business card...I guess it's deceiving??

Oh, oh, another important detail, what type of motor mounts were on that engine, original stock, new stock or schumaker??
PS - I acidently posted this question on the thread in the link you gave, so if you see it just ignore. If you answer the question here it keep all the information in one place.
thanks again,

Treblig
 
Man I would love to have the answer to this, as I have already tried an expensive set of 340 manifolds and could not get them to fit in my 64 340 dart with power steering and 833 with 10.5 clutch and a mini starter.

you can contact waggin for more details since he is doing the work for me.

David

also I think you need more parameters to your task , like transmission and starter
 

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Man I would love to have the answer to this, as I have already tried an expensive set of 340 manifolds and could not get them to fit in my 64 340 dart with power steering and 833 with 10.5 clutch and a mini starter.

you can contact waggin for more details since he is doing the work for me.

David

also I think you need more parameters to your task , like transmission and starter

Thanks for your important input!!!! You may have some important information for the Early As???? The manifolds you show in your pic are the late 60s 340 manifolds or at least the driver's manifold is late 60s. I was asking for a non P/S volunteer for the same reason yours wouldn't work. The P/S box stands too high compared to a manual. That being said you didn't say if there was any interference with the Z bar or if you had column shift (VERY IMPORTANT DETAILS). Did it hit the P/S box or the Z bar or both? Did the passenger side 340 work (clear)??
I don't remember "ragtopfury" mentioning P/S using the Dakota as that might be another solution??

PS - I did ask in my original post, "automatic (preferably console, although auto column shift may work), must have manual steering". I'm learning as I go................

THE PLOT THICKENS!!!
treblig
 
Unfornately I did not note the numbers on the right side before grinding them off. Drivers side I can get tomorrow if I get home from work early enough. Starter is the normal oem type starter for the year. Trans is the original 904. Standard steering. I don't think it would clear a power steering box/lines in an early A. Motor mounts are original flat biscuits type. We also had to cut the collar of the steering column near to firewall back a little. And yes, it appears as there is more room on the right side, but there is not - its a little mis leading in the pic I think because we went black and you can't really see the contours of the inner fender and the shadows.
 
Unfornately I did not note the numbers on the right side before grinding them off. Drivers side I can get tomorrow if I get home from work early enough. Starter is the normal oem type starter for the year. Trans is the original 904. Standard steering. I don't think it would clear a power steering box/lines in an early A. Motor mounts are original flat biscuits type. We also had to cut the collar of the steering column near to firewall back a little. And yes, it appears as there is more room on the right side, but there is not - its a little mis leading in the pic I think because we went black and you can't really see the contours of the inner fender and the shadows.


I hope you realize I'm writing all this down in my exhaust manifold binder of information!!! Get the driver's side numbers if you have time, this thread will probably keep getting bumped up as more and more members help out. I didn't see anywhere what year/type of car you installed the manifolds into?? Also heads on the car (exhaust sealing surface). Console shifter or column??? Geeez, I feel like an investigator!!!!

Thanks for the great details, with each detail we get closer...
treblig
 
toss the power steering in the garbage can my mom could steer an a body with manual steering actually her b body had manual steering...toss that crap in the garbage can so the 340 hi po's will fit and room for dual resivoir master cylinder Yay Problem solved
 
Took for granted, this being about early A's, that Jake's car is the platform at hand....my bad..... 65 B'cuda, 83 318 block/heads, the perforated looking gaskets that came in the fel-pro engine gasket set.
 
Took for granted, this being about early A's, that Jake's car is the platform at hand....my bad..... 65 B'cuda, 83 318 block/heads, the perforated looking gaskets that came in the fel-pro engine gasket set.


The reason I asked is that there is some contention about the amount of space in the engine bay of a 63/64 VS a 65/66 even though they are all early As. Or maybe it's the way the suspension, steering linkage, etc is arranged. Again, I'm not an early A expert. But I'm learning. If I stick with 65/66 it minimizes the variables!!

Thanks,
Treblig
 
toss the power steering in the garbage can my mom could steer an a body with manual steering actually her b body had manual steering...toss that crap in the garbage can so the 340 hi po's will fit and room for dual resivoir master cylinder Yay Problem solved


I just looked at your 65 valiant 2Dr sedan pics. Is that a 70s style 340 manifold on that car? It looks like it has the ribs top and bottom like the 70s manifold?? What type of motor mounts did you use as there seems to be plenty of room over your steering box? I couldn't see the steering column/shaft in the pics. Also there were no pics of the passenger side manifold??
And Yes, I think you qualify but it looks like you've already BEEN THERE< DONE THAT!!!
thanks,
Treblig
 
Awesome Treblig, I'm going to following this post. It's nice to see someone coming up with a definitive answer as to what exhaust manifolds will work on an early A. I know that all cars are slightly different but you have the best, what fits scenario I've seen.

Thanks
 
Awesome Treblig, I'm going to following this post. It's nice to see someone coming up with a definitive answer as to what exhaust manifolds will work on an early A. I know that all cars are slightly different but you have the best, what fits scenario I've seen.

Thanks

I totally agree Keith. I know it's been done many times before but there just isn't enough documentation and pics to convince everyone that it's easily possible. I know for a fact that there are many Early A owners who would love to use large "great flowing" manifolds but don't want to buy something that might not work or that might require to much additional work. I think many of the Early A owners don't mind making some modifications but most them would prefer "bolt in" manifolds (like most of us).

Treblig
 
I totally agree Keith. I know it's been done many times before but there just isn't enough documentation and pics to convince everyone that it's easily possible. I know for a fact that there are many Early A owners who would love to use large "great flowing" manifolds but don't want to buy something that might not work or that might require to much additional work. I think many of the Early A owners don't mind making some modifications but most them would prefer "bolt in" manifolds (like most of us).

Treblig


You could always donate a set to us here at school for our 65 Barracuda build. 360/904/8.75 - no PS, no PB, no AC. We'd be happy to document the entire process on a build thread. :)

Our fallback position is the 273 CI manifolds.
 
You could always donate a set to us here at school for our 65 Barracuda build. 360/904/8.75 - no PS, no PB, no AC. We'd be happy to document the entire process on a build thread. :)

Our fallback position is the 273 CI manifolds.

Very interesting proposition????!!!! And I thought I was slick!!!! I guess just like your 273 CI fallback plan I can keep you in mind. Finding and modifying these manifolds takes a lot of time and money, giving a set away would hurt my pocket book. But you are documenting everything you do so that's a plus. New Jersey is also a long ways off so the shipping would also kill me. I guess if I can't find a volunteer I will consider your offer but the best I could do is give you a big discount (30 percent). I would still lose money but not as much. Besides you would have to buy something to get the exhaust from the heads to the exhaust pipe unless you already have a set of manifolds, so you're going to have to buy something anyway??? It would also make it easier if I sent you a Dakota driver and 360 magnum set because they don't cost as much.....we'll see. Will the car you're building meet all the other quals??

This is getting CRAZY!!!:burnout:

Thanks for the offer,
treblig
 
Just my 2 cents. I don't have a V-8 narrow body.

If you are going to modify stock style exhaust manifolds to fit, 1/32"-1/16" clearance is just too tight. It may work for one particular car but if the same manifold is tried on a different car, you may have 1/4" clearance or 1/4" interference. In my opinion, you need to "kill" the problem and err on the safe side.

Angle milling a mounting face may help, I don't know, but depending on how extreme the angle needs to be, you may want to spot face the bolt head area so it parallels the face.

But the info you are gathering is a great thing to have and share.
 
Just my 2 cents. I don't have a V-8 narrow body.

If you are going to modify stock style exhaust manifolds to fit, 1/32"-1/16" clearance is just too tight. It may work for one particular car but if the same manifold is tried on a different car, you may have 1/4" clearance or 1/4" interference. In my opinion, you need to "kill" the problem and err on the safe side.

Angle milling a mounting face may help, I don't know, but depending on how extreme the angle needs to be, you may want to spot face the bolt head area so it parallels the face.

But the info you are gathering is a great thing to have and share.


I agree KKuda, every car will be a little different (clearance wise). There are numerous ways to attack this issue. I could get someone with a early A (with no engine installed) to measure the two closest points inner fender to inner fender. Hopefully I could get numerous members to do this, at least all the members with their engines out!! This way we could get a good idea of the variation between cars. I have a 318 sitting in my garage. I could throw the heads on it and the exhaust manifolds and measure the width (outside to outside) on the exhaust manifolds. Also, and I'm not sure if this is doable, someone with an Early A could spread their inner fenders using a porta power or bottle jack to get just another 1/4" of width. But again, I'm not sure what other problems it might cause. If I cut the manifold mating surface at an angle I would have to also cut (spot face) the bolt head surface or you might "snap off" a bolt head forcing it to push too hard against a surface that is not parallel to the underside of the bolt head. Cutting the mating surface and spot facing the bolt head area would basically double the machining costs and I would lose any potential future buyers. I have to keep costs down or we're back to the cost of expensive headers.

And you are correct, the manifolds do need to be machined in such a way that they fit most of the Early As out there. Also, the criteria I listed at the beginning of this thread calls for someone who isn't afraid to do a little creative engineering to get them to fit. I know it's been done before but there just isn't enough documentation to make Early A owners feel comfortable about buying the late 60s 340 driver paired with the 360 magnum passenger. I already know that the price I sell these manifolds for is reasonable because I can't keep enough in stock. So my prices are OK, I have to do my best to keep the price down!!
Thanks for your great ideas!!!!
Treblig
 
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