Complete 4 speed install with rods and shifter

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Dana67Dart said:
Still not feeling it. So the factory just cut the floor up to put the hump in? The link only had speculations based on swaps, seems odd that the floor pan would not have been stamped special for manual car. It also seems off that the crossmember would not have been special to follow the hump contours.
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Lol. Don't know what to tell you, but that's how it was done. It makes sense to me instead of stamping two floors, they stamped one and then based on the vehicle build, they cut and added the hump, stich welded it in and added seam sealer.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Lol. Don't know what to tell you, but that's how it was done. It makes sense to me instead of stamping two floors, they stamped one and then based on the vehicle build, they cut and added the hump, stich welded it in and added seam sealer.
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I'm accepting the answer, just doesn't seem like a good use of time on the assembly line. Seems like back then the number of manuals would be about equal to autos if not more
 
Yeah this is what I remember!
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But I made my own mounting pad . I raised the shifter high enough to put the top bolt in from the cab, and about 7 inches further back, between the buckets, and a lil closer towards my hip. Then I installed a vintage Mr.Gasket, BANG! Shifter, which has a really short stick. I bought that shifter new in 1971, and it must have over half a million miles on it, lol.
Missed shifts are a thing of the past.

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to some degree these cars were not overengineered...what was the simplest, least expensive way to build it was done. That said, the simplicity combined with the strength of the unibody construction still amazes me.
 
The floor was either stamped or cut by hand for the 4 speed hole. Some were done so crudely it looked like a child did it.
I have seen some that were stamped out, 70 challenger is the only one I can say for sure.
Here is a pic of my cuda I recently cut out for the hump. The factory trimmed the floor and left a strip where the torsion bar crossmember is. Although I fully welded mine, the factory typically only partially welded this strip and it usually had a gap....just floating there.
The second pic you can see the factory just stitch welded these in and then smeared seam sealer over the joint. It does the job just fine, no need to fully weld unless you really wanted to.

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HemiDenny said:
to some degree these cars were not overengineered...what was the simplest, least expensive way to build it was done. That said, the simplicity combined with the strength of the unibody construction still amazes me.
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least expensive for sure. back in the 60's,70's,80's when you went to the dealership to buy a new car from the big 3 in all cases the chrysler product was apples to apples, oranges to oranges the cheapest by several hundred dollars and good ole ma mopar didn't lose money just to give you a good deal because she liked you
 
Why does this Extra leg exist on the hump?
Is it really necessary to cut that part out of the tunnel?

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Same deal on hump on 6-5 B body. Those years were before the A833 and Hurst shifter. They took the T10 and it was bigger, different. I cut that off as I used the A833 on my 64Savoy. I guess it depends on what you are using or if you are anal?:poke:
 
barbee6043 said:
Same deal on hump on 6-5 B body. Those years were before the A833 and Hurst shifter. They took the T10 and it was bigger, different. I cut that off as I used the A833 on my 64Savoy. I guess it depends on what you are using or if you are anal?:poke:
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Not Anal, just didn't know. I'm using an 833 with a Hurst Comp Plus in a '65 Barracuda So, Cut it Off? Cool!
 
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