Ridge is... well, a Ridge. it barely catches a fingernail... doesn't stop your fingernail... I say it's a very low ridge
Compression Ring End Gap
- Thread starter eekvonzipper
- Start date
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Ironracer
Gearhead
Hmm. As my limited mind wonders, as the power was out for a while, do you replace the rod bearings, while you are there? I'd damn sure plasti gauge em, since the same guy did the rings....
Yeah, you got some wrong parts there, I believe. Rings are suspect.
With Only One Piston out so far... this got interesting Real Quick!
Ironracer
Gearhead
No Sir... apparently stuff is getting hard to find. A member here posted to go to " Bearing King" last week...supposed to have a large in stock warehouse
Well yeah. They're evenly wore the hell out. But that's actually good. I'll take that any day over uneven wear.
Anything's possible, I reckon. Rings might just be wore slap the hell out.
I guess you found where the oil and compression went... The rule of thumb for normally aspirated engines was .004 per diameter inch of bore, so about .015 gap minimum.
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dial bore gauges are for production machining and those who do not know how to use telescoping gauges and micrometers. Also they are only as accurate as the user and the standard.
That's very true. We used to have a local family run machine shop. They were very good........until the father passed that founded the business and the son took it over. To this day, the guy thinks he knows it all. Can't tell him anything. I haven't even seen him in over 20 years. Anyway, one of the last times I saw him, he was measuring "some poor soul's" bore with a hand held telescoping dial bore gauge. I said, "gosh, is that the most accurate way you have to do that?" He said "yeah" "it is the most accurate". I just walked over and asked to see it. I asked him what his reference was to the center line of the crank to the bore as I put it into a cylinder. He said "huh?" I said "yeah, that's what I thought" and I've never seen him since.
They've moved since then but all the local Chevy guys swear by him. This is the same guy who very shortly after my work accident I commissioned to build the only engine I've ever had anyone build for me. A very mild 360 for a truck. I was still basically bed ridden. They "built" the engine with the rocker shafts upside down and backwards and damn near every rocker arm in the wrong position. Not only that, but I had hired his parts guy to put it in the truck for me. It already had headers on it. This guy cross threaded EVERY header bolt where the header tube crossed in front of the bolt. That was a lot. When I called him on it his response was "well goddamn, you can't get to the bolts to get them in straight". I went over to the wall where they had some headers hanging and showed him you pull the flange away, then start the bolt. He said "oh Chevys aren't like that". I swear yall, it's a wonder I'm not still in jail for murder. Twice over. I looked at the owner before I left and asked "Sam, what are we gonna do about all this?" As I still "owed" a bit more on the job. He said "Rob just don't pay me I guess". I said "Agreed!" and I've never seen him again.
Now, this WAS a very high end local shop back in the 50s, 60s, 70s and a short time in the 80s. They had a library that took up one entire corner of the parts hose. They had no excuse. Since his father passed, he just didn't give a **** about anything but Chevy stuff. You might can tell, it still pisses me off. lol
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A good dial bore is accurate to .0001 of an inch or better if you use it right. Anything else, not so much. I had a machine shop tell me, after I told them what I wanted the intake side of my heads milled, that he would mill them the same as he did Chevy heads, cause Chevy was racing long before Chrysler. I told him he was wrong on both counts, and found a different machine shop. Funny what you remember...
See my parentheses above. You are 100% correct. You have to know how to use tham.
Hey Triple R Should I wait til I have Number Stamps to tear this down or just go ahead and do it and keep the pistons organized in a tote?
I have one of those 2 litre soda totes that holds 8 2-litres... thanx man
How far do you plan on going with machine work? If you plan to have the rods resized, it won't matter where they go back, only that they face the right direction when you install them.
Machine work? I was just gonna buy a Hone and dig in
Should I Flip the Piston's like that Uncle Tony Guy?
Ooop's I just Opened a whole can of worm's didn't I. Disregard. Lol
Ooop's I just Opened a whole can of worm's didn't I. Disregard. Lol
How loose is the piston in the bore? I ask because a std. size ring in a .030 bore will have .094 more gap than a std. ring would.
Could someone have put std. pistons/ rings in a .030 bore?
Id stick the piston back in with all the rings off, and see what you got.
Could someone have put std. pistons/ rings in a .030 bore?
Id stick the piston back in with all the rings off, and see what you got.
jimjimjimmy
lobsterman
I had an engine that was built by one of the best in Minnesota and it had 30 over rings in a 40 over bore it went through oil like a soft **** on chicken wire .
Krooser
Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
What size ring do you need? I may have what you need…
I resize rods and use good rod bolts on all my builds. I also won't cut corners on the crankshaft. It gets turned, unless it's standard on the high side and the journals are ROUND....and that ain't very often on a used engine.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
The removal of the normal gray on the bearings is very uniform. I wonder if some old school engine builder scotch-brited the coating off. Are all of the rod bearings like that?
Yes they are.
How can I determine Journal Roundness Triple R?
Machine shop.
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