cooling headache!!!

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1mean7Ddart

1mean7Ddart

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there's no coolant running though the system wtf!!!! motor temp went to 250 and the radiator is ice cold..... been trying to break-in my motor for some time now... but the dang thing motor is nothing but problems!!!!
i have all new parts on this 360 what could be wrong??? some one please help me out before i end up junking this peace of shhhhhhhh

new water pump
new thermostat

what am i missing?
 

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I'm not "into" all this serpintine stuff, and I cannot see from your photo

Do you have the correct rotation water pump?

What did you do about "burping" the air out of the system, IE how did you fill it?

Did you drill a bleed hole in the stat?

Could the stat be upside down?
 
i have gone through 3 thermostats before i got one that was good. i even bought a $10 nascar stant that was total junk. throw your thermostat in a pan of boiling water to make sure it is opening.
 
i had a brand new water pump from summit, i thought it went bad from sitting or was just a bad pump.... so i got one from napa stock pump for a sb....

burping? never heard of it! i just filled it let it settle then filled it up.... started it then topped it off.

no bleed hole.... !?!?

stat is pointing up...
 
i also took off the heater hose plug, turned on the car to see if the pump was spinning and there was no water spitting out, that's why i went to a napa pump... and same story:banghead:
 
Run it without the t stat. It will at least allow you to look in the rad and see if there is flow. If there is,you found the issue. As for t stat's,some jobber stores sell what is called a fail/safe t stat.This style fails in the open position,so you at least still have cooling.

Confirm the op of your t gauge with a known good unit.
 
1mean7Ddart said:
.................. stock pump for a sb......
Click to expand...

OK, but stock for WHAT? A stock Mopar 92/ later serpentine pump TURNS THE OPPOSITE direction. So did you get a pump for a "v belt" SB or a 92/ later "serpentine" belt pump?

1mean7Ddart said:
.............no bleed hole.... !?!?...
Click to expand...

Are you asking me or telling me, read on...................

1mean7Ddart said:
..................burping? never heard of it! i just filled it let it settle then filled it up.... started it then topped it off....
Click to expand...

If you have never air locked an engine, I can understand why you seem surprised. First time it happened to me was when I changed cams in the old 70 RR back in the '70's. I always pull the top heater hose which connects near the stat off at the heater, fill until I get coolant out the hose, then raise the hose up high and put as much coolant as I can get "in". and last, re - install the hose. Since you don't have a heater, you can just pull one of the intake plugs and fill until you get water up there

This is ALSO why you drill a 1/8" or smaller bleed hole in the stat outer ring, and this is a WELL documented "thing" to do.


1mean7Ddart said:
.................. stat is pointing up...
Click to expand...

..........AND............ I have no idea what this means

Bleed hole and TOP of stat:

You can easily check the stat for "basic operation" by throwing it into a pan of water on the stove, and kype your wife's candy thermometer.

2011-01-20_022405_auto_pictures_005.jpg
 
pump is a standerd rotation 91 and older 310/360.
no i do not have a bleed hole on my thermostat.
top of thermostat is up.
 
Yup, he's right....you'll be so glad you drilled that little hole. It'll allow all the air in the block to bubble up and out to the radiator, past that cold and closed thermostat. That air pocket in the block doesn't allow the hot water to contact the bottom of the t'stat and make it open.

IF this is the problem......
 
Has the block been filled with hard blok? Sometimes when this is done coolant can't flow around the cylinders properly. Sounds like the coolant passages in the block are clogged up. You could have a bad radiator. I'd pressure test the system. If you open the petcock on the block does coolant flow out? Just throwing things out. Maybe your pulleys are spinning the water pump too slow. Good Luck.
 
GOOD NEWS I drilled the bleed hole on my thermostat and now i have water flowing to the radiator, thanks for the tip!!! BAD NEWS motor is still overheating... now what? radiator? fan? fan and radiator? what else can it be? smh
 
srduster340 said:
Has the block been filled with hard blok? Sometimes when this is done coolant can't flow around the cylinders properly. Sounds like the coolant passages in the block are clogged up. You could have a bad radiator. I'd pressure test the system. If you open the petcock on the block does coolant flow out? Just throwing things out. Maybe your pulleys are spinning the water pump too slow. Good Luck.
Click to expand...

motors was rebuilt and has never had hard blok..... pullys are march under drive pulleys = spin a bit faster
 
1mean7Ddart said:
pullys are march under drive pulleys = spin a bit faster
Click to expand...

If you really mean "underdrive" this means they spin SLOWER. I'd measure the crank and pump pulleys, get back onto the March website, and figure out what you have

If you overheated the thing enough that you now have some head/ gasket leakage, you might be getting combustion pressure injected into the coolant. In a case like this, you will NOT necessarily see anything special in the coolant, but there is a chemical test radiator shops have just for this purpose, it detects combustion products in the coolant.
 
You didn't say... are you using an electric fan? And I didn't see a fan shroud.
 
From OP:

pump is a standerd rotation 91 and older 310/360.

Isn't this the problem? The pump is rotating in the wrong direction?
C
 
slowing the water down in the system will allow it to run cooler, ie: a 160* thermostat may make the engine run hotter than a 200* thermostat...also there are High flow and low flow water pumps, the high flow may cause this same problem....been there done that hope this is helpful...Wagg's
 
67Dart273 said:
If you really mean "underdrive" this means they spin SLOWER. I'd measure the crank and pump pulleys, get back onto the March website, and figure out what you have

If you overheated the thing enough that you now have some head/ gasket leakage, you might be getting combustion pressure injected into the coolant. In a case like this, you will NOT necessarily see anything special in the coolant, but there is a chemical test radiator shops have just for this purpose, it detects combustion products in the coolant.
Click to expand...

went on march web site and yes you are correct on the undredrive pulleys do spin slower, but still should not make the motor overheat http://www.marchperf.com/tiptricks/underdrive2.html
 
waggin said:
slowing the water down in the system will allow it to run cooler, ie: a 160* thermostat may make the engine run hotter than a 200* thermostat...also there are High flow and low flow water pumps, the high flow may cause this same problem....been there done that hope this is helpful...Wagg's
Click to expand...

i have a 180* stat
 
new motor? i'd try a 195 t stat, check the timing get it to 34*'s total or maybe a Lil' less till the engine has been broke in, check float levels on carby ( too lean will make it run hot ) run large fan in front of radiator while breaking in the cam ( engines inherently run hot during break in )
1mean7Ddart said:
i have a 180* stat
Click to expand...
 
Lower radiator (supply) hose collapsed? Look down there and see if its squeezed itself closed.
 
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