Getting hot in stop "n" go traffic, getting to 210-220. We have tired 3 different temp gauges and have also checked it with an infared gauge...... all get same results. Only about 15 degrees cooler coming out of rad than going in.
There are a few other things you can check before you commit to a new radiator:
1 Check the radiator cap to ensure it's not leaking past the gasket. Over time, the "impressions" from constant tension can inhibit the caps ability to keep the system under pressure.
Also, have the hubby pressurize the cooling system. Most parts houses have the fixture and pump to allow you to check for leaks and the systems ability to maintain "rated" pressure.
You can also try a new higher pressure cap - but don't get too carried away.
2 Make sure the engines timing (vacuum advance) is not too far advanced at idle. I'd start by disconnecting and plugging the vacuum advance line at the carb. Then drive the car for a little while. If the condition improves, you probably need to pull some static timing out of it and have the distributor recurved to move the advance cycle further up the rpm band. If no change:
3 Check the idle screws on the carb. If they are too far "in" you could be experiencing a very lean condition at idle, and that can cause an engine to run hot at idle. If still not change:
4 One or both of the above conditions can have a huge impact on low speed cooling. If neither helps:
5 Check your pulleys to ensure the water pump pulley isn't being under-driven (using a larger pulley on the water pump than the crank). If it is larger, consider using the late model 440 Fury pulleys that use a small water pump pulley, which will speed up your water flow at idle.
6 Check the belts to ensure you don't have slippage.
7 Remove the radiator cap and watch the water in the upper tank. If there is zero, or little, movement, the water pump could be the culprit. It's not unusual for water pumps to come with plastic impellers, and I've yet to run one that didn't slip on the shaft and cause overheating.
8 After dark, or in the shade, shine a light through the back of the radiator to determine if the fins have accumulated any dirt and debris, which prevent air flow. If they have, pressure wash from the back side and clear out the bugs, and debris.
9 If you're not using a 'recovery' bottle, consider employing one. When temperature rises, especially during shutdown, residual pressure combined with an older (or under rated) cap will allow liquid to boil off. Each time this happens, your fluid level decreases and you may not even realize that you've run low (or nearly out) of fluids until it starts to overheat. The recovery bottle retains and returns the fluid based on temperature.
10 Most of our cars came equipped with a "tray" that bridges the front bumper and radiator support, to help direct air through the radiator (high pressure air under cruise -where you'd typically not need the fan). This works in conjunction with a fan shround and aids cooling at all speeds. The fan should be half in, and half out of the shroud to be most effective.
Hopefully, there's something here that can help out. Good luck with the car.
Southernman
