Could really use some help...again..

[nodemon]

The round plug is keyed so it shouldnt be able to plug in any other way unless the key is damaged.
It does sound like your wiring is crossed somehow but it should be evident if someone has been donkeying around with it. Ground problems can cause weird stuff to happen, especially in lighting circuits. Bulbs can backfeed ground and cause weird issues. Run that ground and rule it out. (or hopefully it fixes it)

I put a dedicated ground from dash/instrument cluster to dash where emergency brake bolts on.. Not sure if that's the right kind of "dedicated" ground, but nothing changed. I see zero evidence of any alterations to wiring...looks complete and stock. Remains a mystery, and I'm going to end up scratching or damaging something cosmeticly if I keep having to remove and install the cluster, which is newly restored...

 

[Dana67Dart]

The ralley dash has a round plug that is keyed BUT...

The connectors in the plug can be removed and if put back in wrong will cause all kinds of issues.


Remember when looking at plugs and photos of the plugs, you are looking at the terminal side of the plug and the terminal side of the connector.

One will be a mirror image of the other

This is just an example of what I'm talking about.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

I have seen them forced in the wrong way plenty of times.

 

[MoparMike1974]

Yes, they can be popped out and put in the wrong place. There are also usually a couple unpopulated spots that would help confuse someone if one did pop out.
Time to get out a wiring diagram and check it out.

 

[CFD244]

When your schematic arrives, you will see which cavity of the round plug feeds which terminal on the circuit board. If it were me, I would get a trusted test light and attach the alligator clip to a good known ground. With schematic info, you will be able to figure out which cavity in the round plug should have power and which should not as the controls are activated.

For example, with the key off, pull the headlight switch and the terminal that powers the dash lights should show power.....and dim as the switch is turned. Hit the high beam, and the the terminal that supplies the blue high beam indicator in the dash should show power. Probe the others as well to confirm "no power" where there shouldn't be any.

Continue to confirm all cavities function as they should.

This is where I would start......But I don't claim to be an expert.

Best of luck

 

[66Valiant528]

Be careful not to short out anything. Some dash board voltage regulators/limiters are easy to fry.

 

[Dana67Dart]

You can trace out what each wire does and where it should go on the cir board.

Yellow fuel gauge
Red Ammeter
Magenta oil pressure
Blue water temp
( I might have temp and oil swapped)

The upper left most hole on the fuel gauge provides about 5-6 volts to the fuel, temp and oil gauges.

PLEASE, WATCH THIS VIDEO...

 

[Mattax]

@nodemon has the shop manual and the diagrams. Its a matter of helping him read it, and how to then use it.
See june '68 here

Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics

The Imperial Mailing List Online Car Club is dedicated to the preservation, appreciation and restoration of Imperials and Chrysler Imperials of all years, models and body-styles.

www.web.imperialclub.info

or

Chrysler Master Tech Service Library – Browse Model Year – MyMopar

mymopar.com

Trying to get my dash lights / electrical stuff working correctly.

almost like a short / bad ground maybe... but I really have no clue not circuit savvy..but willing / trying to learn.

A short is when the circuit connects in some way that allows electicity to flow but shortcuts whatever it is we wanted to power.
A bad ground, the circuit can not complete and so electricity doesn't flow.
The ammeter show current (amount of electricity moving) in or out of the battery. So that's helpful to observe.,

My heater and wiper motor work. My headlights, taillights, brake lights, etc. work. Dash lights don't work.. I've put a couple new bulbs in and still no luck.

So the the heater and wipers are fed from the switched accessory circuit. So power is making it to the key switch and out.
Headlights get a dedicated feed but does tell you that the battey feed to main distribution point (a welded splice) is good.
Tailights, and brake lights are on fuses that are always hot.
Dashlights are on a circuit that branches off inside the headlight switch. This one is a good place to start diagnosing.

High-beam indicator works, but goes off and on depending what position the blinker switch is in. Blinkers don't work. Left blinker indicator on dash stays solid when blinker switch is in the right blinker or off position..but then left blinker indicator light goes out when the switch is in the "left" position.

The other guys have started to help with this - which seems to be some sort of cross wiring related to the instrument cluster.\

I have a multimeter, but not real sure how to use it...where to check and what I'd be checking for anyway.

The meter can show Voltage, and continuity as well as resistance between any two points.
However - When the battery is connected use voltage (DC). Usually one probe will be on the ground, o negative and the other on the point you expect to be at battery voltage. Even when the engine is running from power coming from the alternator, people say 'battery voltage'. But in this case, we are talking battery voltage. Get familiar with it. Go over to the battery and measure the voltage across it. Then measure the voltage at the big junction on the starter relay, and then at the alternator output terminal. They are all connected and should al;l be at the same voltage.

When the battery is disconnected, then use the continuity and resistance (ohms) settings.

For your first diagnoses, turn on the parking lights, turn the instrument lights to mid or high and measure voltage on both sides of the instrument lamp fuse. If there is voltage on both sides, then the problem is downstream.

 

[JDMopar]

If the dash frame and the car body have both been painted, it may be loosing the ground connection where the dash frame bolts to the door jamb by the drivers and passenger doors. I learned that lesson the hard way with my Superbird back in the 80's. Since then, I leave those areas of both the dash frame and under the bolt in the door jamb bare metal and coat them with dielectric grease before bolting them together. There should also be one screw on the cluster that grounds the cluster to the dash frame. Make sure your negative battery cable is on bare metal where it attaches to the body too. Steering column needs a good ground. Good luck with it.

 

[nodemon]

@nodemon has the shop manual and the diagrams. Its a matter of helping him read it, and how to then use it.
See june '68 here

http://[URL]https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/index.htm

[/URL]
or

http://[URL]https://mymopar.com/chrysler-master-tech-service-library-browse-model-year/

[/URL]




A short is when the circuit connects in some way that allows electicity to flow but shortcuts whatever it is we wanted to power.
A bad ground, the circuit can not complete and so electricity doesn't flow.
The ammeter show current (amount of electricity moving) in or out of the battery. So that's helpful to observe.,

So the the heater and wipers are fed from the switched accessory circuit. So power is making it to the key switch and out.
Headlights get a dedicated feed but does tell you that the battey feed to main distribution point (a welded splice) is good.
Tailights, and brake lights are on fuses that are always hot.
Dashlights are on a circuit that branches off inside the headlight switch. This one is a good place to start diagnosing.

The other guys have started to help with this - which seems to be some sort of cross wiring related to the instrument cluster.\



The meter can show Voltage, and continuity as well as resistance between any two points.
However - When the battery is connected use voltage (DC). Usually one probe will be on the ground, o negative and the other on the point you expect to be at battery voltage. Even when the engine is running from power coming from the alternator, people say 'battery voltage'. But in this case, we are talking battery voltage. Get familiar with it. Go over to the battery and measure the voltage across it. Then measure the voltage at the big junction on the starter relay, and then at the alternator output terminal. They are all connected and should al;l be at the same voltage.

When the battery is disconnected, then use the continuity and resistance (ohms) settings.

For your first diagnoses, turn on the parking lights, turn the instrument lights to mid or high and measure voltage on both sides of the instrument lamp fuse. If there is voltage on both sides, then the problem is downstream.
View attachment 1716208469

Thanks a ton for all the info and help. I have tested anything yet but I did, on the tip from a buddy, get my hazards and blinkers working.. He said turn your hazards on and press the plastic where the wires are connected..and damn, they started working. So, I guess I'm gonna replace the blinker / turn signal switch.. I'll probably replace the headlight switch too. Even if it's not necessarily the problem, it's a 52 year old part, so why not.
Again, appreciate the help..!

 

[nodemon]

If the dash frame and the car body have both been painted, it may be loosing the ground connection where the dash frame bolts to the door jamb by the drivers and passenger doors. I learned that lesson the hard way with my Superbird back in the 80's. Since then, I leave those areas of both the dash frame and under the bolt in the door jamb bare metal and coat them with dielectric grease before bolting them together. There should also be one screw on the cluster that grounds the cluster to the dash frame. Make sure your negative battery cable is on bare metal where it attaches to the body too. Steering column needs a good ground. Good luck with it.

I did paint the dash so I'll sand at the connection points.. Thanks..!

 

[nodemon]

You can trace out what each wire does and where it should go on the cir board.

View attachment 1716208462
Yellow fuel gauge
Red Ammeter
Magenta oil pressure
Blue water temp
( I might have temp and oil swapped)

The upper left most hole on the fuel gauge provides about 5-6 volts to the fuel, temp and oil gauges.
View attachment 1716208463

PLEASE, WATCH THIS VIDEO...

Thanks for the info and help..!

 

[nodemon]

When your schematic arrives, you will see which cavity of the round plug feeds which terminal on the circuit board. If it were me, I would get a trusted test light and attach the alligator clip to a good known ground. With schematic info, you will be able to figure out which cavity in the round plug should have power and which should not as the controls are activated.

For example, with the key off, pull the headlight switch and the terminal that powers the dash lights should show power.....and dim as the switch is turned. Hit the high beam, and the the terminal that supplies the blue high beam indicator in the dash should show power. Probe the others as well to confirm "no power" where there shouldn't be any.

Continue to confirm all cavities function as they should.

This is where I would start......But I don't claim to be an expert.

Best of luck

As always thanks for the input and help..!!

 

[Mattax]

Thanks a ton for all the info and help. I have tested anything yet but I did, on the tip from a buddy, get my hazards and blinkers working.. He said turn your hazards on and press the plastic where the wires are connected..and damn, they started working. So, I guess I'm gonna replace the blinker / turn signal switch.. I'll probably replace the headlight switch too. Even if it's not necessarily the problem, it's a 52 year old part, so why not.
Again, appreciate the help..!

Because the new parts aren't as well made as the old ones.
Because to save money they make one size to fit most and tell you its the right part.

Good luck on finding a new headlight switch with a 15 amp circuit breaker like the originals.
Do a search here for threads about turn signal switches, and I think you find new is not always better or even good.

If squeezing a connector fixed a connection, then fix that.
Was it oxidation, or was it the terminals backing out, or was it the terminal to wire crimp? Those can be addressed. The terminals are held into the plastic connectors with little barbs.
Also once everything is working, get the wire cables back in their supports. That way they don't hang an dmove around - that causes problems over time.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

What did you find?

 

[nodemon]

What did you find?

Here's the answer I just gave to another member that asked the same question..
Not really sure..lol except I changed ALL the bulbs and replaced a socket that had a broken tab and wasn't making contact. Not sure it that circuit board works like the old Christmas light strands, where if one bulb burns out, the whole strand isn't working, but maybe that one socket was the issue ??
I still have a problem with the dimmer though, but probably just worn some and not good contact. Is it normal to turn that dimmer switch all the way to the left, where it "clicks" and the dash lights stay on..? I can't remember if that's normal...lol
Also, when I turn my headlights on, the left blinker indicator light on the dash lights up and stays on..

 

[Mattax]

Is it normal to turn that dimmer switch all the way to the left, where it "clicks" and the dash lights stay on..?

The click is to turn the dome or courtesy lights on.
Is turn all the way to brightest (if the light switch is pulled), and then the click is the dome light.

Also, when I turn my headlights on, the left blinker indicator light on the dash lights up and stays on..

Some thing is cross wired or back feeding.
When one turn signal filament is out, the turning the signal on causes the others to stay on.

 

[nodemon]

The click is to turn the dome or courtesy lights on.
Is turn all the way to brightest (if the light switch is pulled), and then the click is the dome light.


Some thing is cross wired or back feeding.
When one turn signal filament is out, the turning the signal on causes the others to stay on.

I just figured it out... Was simply a bad parking light pigtail... What is strange about that is, it worked with the blinker switch and hazards on.. but when just turning parking lights / headlight switch on, it showed solid on the dash but the bulb wasn't lit.. Luckily, I have amassed a stock pile of some parts by buying multiples while doing this project and had a few extras to replace it.
Someone once told me to NOT sell anything until I'm completely done. Good advice..!
As soon as I'm "done", I'm gonna have a hell of a sale..! OEM scoops, grilles, interior, etc... When I sell all extra parts off, I figure that'll bring me to just 99.9% over budget...lol
Thanks for the help...!

 

[Dana67Dart]

Someone once told me to NOT sell anything until I'm completely done. Good advice

The other part of that advice is Don't throw out anything.
A worn out something is better than a don't have it at all something.

 

[nodemon]

I agree... my girlfriend, not so much.

The other part of that advice is Don't throw out anything.
A worn out something is better than a don't have it at all something.

 

[Dana67Dart]

I agree... my girlfriend, not so much

Some parts you will never find again...

A girlfriend can be replaced

 

[Dartswinger70]

That round plug has wiring diagrams on line. I Google imaged it with my phone when I was getting my was squared away.