Crash Breakaway Inserts

[charliec]

I was told "Never re-use a steering shaft without the plastic breakaway pins". How about if 3 out of 4 are in place? They're intended to break away and allow the shaft to collapse in case of an accident. Would missing 1 pin really diminish the effectiveness, or do they serve another purpose as well?

 

[HankRearden]

run it

 

[Professor Fate]

I'd run it- but if it bothers you, I'd go to the hobby store and buy some nylon/plastic dowels of the right diameter and knock in a new one.

 

[charliec]

Thanks. It really doesn't bother me. If the intended purpose is to break away in case of collision, then it seems like 3/4 of the pins would serve the purpose with a little more margin. I am just looking for someone to tell me why I'm wrong, and if im missing something.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Inject the the missing with JB weld Quick set after poking them all the way out with a punch or drill.

 

[Dana67Dart]

1st measure the overall length and see if the shaft is collapsed.

The main reason for the plastic to be missing is a collapse shaft, most likely due to hammering on the shaft. The plastic is sheered and the bits can come out (or can stay in but still be sheered)

This post has unmolested shafts with photos and lengths (67-69 power and non power)
Manual vs Power Steering Shafts


The way the shafts were made was the 2 metal sections were held in a jig and plastic was injected between the 2 sections coming out the holes on the outside and into recesses on the inner shaft. This created a key to lock the halves together so the length could not change.


There was a member here recently who lost his steering due the the shaft coming out of the coupler, it was due to several factors may or may not have had a direct relation to the plastic in the steering shaft but it still happened.
Steering column issues

 

[jos51700]

Some people collapse them on purpose and run 'em. I won't condone that, but it is done.

 

[dadsbee]

It's only 2 injected "pins", not 4. The hole goes right through.

 

[Dana67Dart]

It's only 2 injected "pins", not 4. The hole goes right through.

Not my understanding BUT I have been wrong before!

Do you have any photos of the 2 pieces separated and completely apart?

 

[townsend]

Measure the length of the upper shaft.
What length do you have from where the upper shaft enters the lower shaft to the steering wheel end.
Should be between 16 3/8 to 16 1/2.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

If you align the holes you can see right through. It can only go at one spot where the holes were originally to align them.

I like the plastic weld used above. Looks factory. I use JB weld but may start using the plastic weld.

 

[charliec]

he main reason for the plastic to be missing is a collapse shaft, most likely due to hammering on the shaft. The plastic is sheered and the bits can come out (or can stay in but still be sheered)

Thank you. This is exactly the kind of info I needed. This led me to go back and measure the shaft as per your earlier post; my shaft is definately SHORTER than the PS shaft you showed in your post. I'm now thinking that the shaft is collapsed and that the plastic remains of the pins just didn't fall out. Further reading in your post tells me exactly why I don't want to use this shaft unless it is rebuilt to spec, i.e. having the shaft come apart in a driving situation.

Man, I can ask some stupid questions sometimes, but this one is worth a life. I love this forum!!!

I never stated it in the OP, but I'm working on '68 Dart, PS, floor shift.

 

[Dana67Dart]

I'm now thinking that the shaft is collapsed and that the plastic remains of the pins just didn't fall out. Further reading in your post tells me exactly why I don't want to use this shaft unless it is rebuilt to spec

I believe as stated, you can adjust the shafts to the proper length and align the holes and use the 2 part epoxy solution successfully. PROBABLY 1 or 2 small roll pins would work fine too. It would take more shear force, so more impact to your chest to shear the roll pins though.


this is how I measured my PS Shaft

 

[charliec]

That's where I measured also. Where you have 37" to middle of the splints, mine measures 36-3/8"

 

[cudamark]

As mentioned, align the holes and just melt some plastic into them. Done.

 

[Dana67Dart]

That's where I measured also. Where you have 37" to middle of the splints, mine measures 36-3/8"

I suspect as others have said if you align the holes you will get the proper dimension.

I would love for others to measure their unmolested shafts and see what the consciences is on the proper length (PS and NON PS AND what year)

 

[HankRearden]

I guess you guys are more safety conscious than me and most of the hot rodders I have known. we have mixed and matched columns,intermediate shafts,saginaw,rag and universal joints in different builds.
Proper fitment and function are typically the only concern. I do prefer to leave some collapsible section in the event of a crash but it is always a tertiary concern.

thanks for the different perspective.

 

[Dana67Dart]

we have mixed and matched columns,intermediate shafts,saginaw,rag and universal joints in different builds.
Proper fitment and function are typically the only concern

done the same

 

[charliec]

I've come to the conclusion that I also have a mix-and-match (FUBAR) set of components in the steering column. On the surface, that's not a problem...if it works, it works. But the deeper I go into this aberation of parts, the more I step back and scratch my head.
I was thinking that the shaft was collapsed since it seemed to be shorter than the one you pulled from a PS car. Upon closer examination, it appears to me that a previous owner actually welded parts together to create a whole new version of whatever length he thought was right. Look at this. It's been welded on more than once, and it's not even straight. God only knows about the integrity of the welds.

The car had a power steering box on it when I bought it, but no pump. All that had been removed, apparently to race the car. (Factory AC underhood was gone also.) I drove it a couple of time up and down the street before I started taking it apart. I recall that the steering was kind of funky, but I attributed that to the fact that there was no power to the PS box and all the bushings were shot. Apparently, there may have been more to it than that.

I think I'll be better off to get a new or good used lower segment of the shaft and throw away this POS. The trouble now is that I don't know exactly what to look for. I normally would want to verify the length of the segment I want, but I don't know what that length is.

I'll go to the "Parts Wanted" forum and look for the lower segment for the year, model and equipment I have. That's the best I'm going to be able to do for a description.

 

[JDMopar]

I'd change it too! Welds look pretty good....but still! Look at the bright side.....you will have a cool Mopar part to drive in the ground to mark a property corner that is different than axles that a lot of people use! Kudos to you for wanting to fix it right.

 

[Dana67Dart]

There is a factory weld in this location

But that doesn't look factory!

 

[charliec]

So many things about this car that aren't "factory". I bought it 27 years ago (hey, life happened...so here I am restoring it in my old age). It had all the GTS badges on it, and it was a 340, 4 spd car, so I jumped on it for $4,500.

The VIN on the dash matches the engine, matches the transmission.
The numbers on the trunk lip and on the core support match.

HOWEVER:
There was a fender tag on it, but I knew nothing about what all that meant. Turns out, it was fender tag from a random charger.
It had to have been a 4 spd swap, because the fender-side ball stud for the z-bar was mounted in a hole cut into the sheet metal of the inner fender...nothing else. Of course, the sheet metal was ripped out.
I guess a previous owner did a fairly decent job otherwise of swapping things...such as changing out the upper steering column housings to eliminate the AT gear-shift. When I took the column apart recently, I found remnants of the AT gear-shift tube and spring.
The rear leaf spring mounts were the wrong (i.e. smaller) diameter bolts; not meant for a GTS.
There were no torque boxes
When I stripped the vinyl top and paint off the car, I found large leaded body filler joints in the rear pillars. (Factory????)

Of course, most of this could have been a case of Ma Mopar sending something off the line with whatever parts were available so to not slow down the line. But still, I will never surreptitiously try to pawn this car off as an honest-to-goodness 1968 Dodge Dart GTS, 340 4-Spd.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Here is a post about the sheer shaft construction if anyone has other shafts cut open I would love to see them.


Collapsible Steering Shaft Demystified