pastortom1
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that I did.........I'm just wonderin' if maybe one lone wolf in there just isn't making a good contact anymore and finally just pooped out......
What the blank kind of response is that? Seems kinda' clear that I've been swapping out the parts these guys thought might be the problem.......You think? Some guys here actually gave me TIPS on diagnosing the problem too, and I've followed advice..........
So why the BS...................? Like it's been said many times before on these forums, if you ain't got anything decent to add, don't add.......Just leave it alone.
Thanks to the guys who've been constructive without negative comments. You're appreciated as always.
Just to be clear; I originally replied to this thread on 11/17 and included a list of otems to check and a suggested order to check them in. You chose to ignore that. That being said, i think it best that you and I ignore each other from here on.
Are you sure the inductive light works. And there is gas in the carb?
Sounds like you've changed everything in the ignition system. I think I'd check for a broken timing chain before I went any farther. Does it sound normal while the engine is cranking? The rotor spins when it's cranking?
X2, except that I would use a remote starter switch on the starter relay.Wow!! sounds like this has been a tough time for you Tom
I can't think of anything to add to this ](*,)
If it was me I would start from the beginning and pull #1 plug out and get the piston top dead center on the compression stroke ( I am sure you know how to do this correctly ) and see where your rotor is pointing
Next, I would check the ground from the battery - post to the ecu housing to make sure there IS a ground from the battery to your body.
Then I would hot wire it, by passing the bulk head with a jumper off the + side of your battery to your coil and pore about 3oz of gas in the carb then useing a screw driver (with your key on just in case) between the starter relay and see what happens.
Yes! I have been here before many years ago and even though the fire wall showed a ground to the ecu it did not show a ground to the - side if the battery because the ground from the engine block was not making it to the body.
I am looking forward to seeing a big :cheers::cheers: that you have it started and can tell us what it was Tom :happy1: Good luck my friend :happy1:
What I wish I could find is a schematic for the bulkhead connector.......
Well my background is in electronics, if the resistor is burning up you either have a bad coil or the wire going from the resistor to the positive side of the coil is shorted to ground. Check it out with a volt/ohm meter Good Luck
Wait! I was hoping he would un wire his entire engine compartment before he tried that and realized he had 2 bad coils or a bad coil wire......While the bulkhead connector could be bad (common problem), that is a long trail. Keep it simple first to diagnose the spark problem. As Memike and other say, jumper straight from battery +12V to coil+, with all other wires disconnected there (no blue ign, no condensor). That takes the key switch, bulkhead and ballast out of the picture. With a DMM, verify +12 V at coil.
Remove the coil output wire from the distributor center post, pull back the boot and arrange it 1/8" from an engine ground. That takes the spark distribution out of the picture. Spin the distributor rotor either with the engine or by hand (removed). You can remove the distributor cap to see what is going on. You should get 4 sparks per engine revolution or 8 sparks per rotor rotation.
If still nothing, you have a problem with either the ignition box, wiring, dist. pickup, or coil. To check the wiring, you need a multimeter. I get for free at Harbor Freight with a coupon.