pastortom1
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that I did.........I'm just wonderin' if maybe one lone wolf in there just isn't making a good contact anymore and finally just pooped out......
CUDA DIED...NO SPARK to PLUGS !!
- Thread starter pastortom1
- Start date
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cudamark
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you've changed everything in the ignition system. I think I'd check for a broken timing chain before I went any farther. Does it sound normal while the engine is cranking? The rotor spins when it's cranking?
Wheel Chock
Well-Known Member
Just to be clear; I originally replied to this thread on 11/17 and included a list of otems to check and a suggested order to check them in. You chose to ignore that. That being said, i think it best that you and I ignore each other from here on.
RangerRick
Well-Known Member
is it an automatic?..............neutral safety switch, i had one break on me and couldnt start the car.............just a thought, good luck
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
Are you sure the inductive light works. And there is gas in the carb?
Wow!! sounds like this has been a tough time for you Tom
I can't think of anything to add to this ](*,)
If it was me I would start from the beginning and pull #1 plug out and get the piston top dead center on the compression stroke ( I am sure you know how to do this correctly ) and see where your rotor is pointing
Next, I would check the ground from the battery - post to the ecu housing to make sure there IS a ground from the battery to your body.
Then I would hot wire it, by passing the bulk head with a jumper off the + side of your battery to your coil and pore about 3oz of gas in the carb then useing a screw driver (with your key on just in case) between the starter relay and see what happens.
Yes! I have been here before many years ago and even though the fire wall showed a ground to the ecu it did not show a ground to the - side if the battery because the ground from the engine block was not making it to the body.
I am looking forward to seeing a big :cheers::cheers: that you have it started and can tell us what it was Tom :happy1: Good luck my friend :happy1:
I can't think of anything to add to this ](*,)
If it was me I would start from the beginning and pull #1 plug out and get the piston top dead center on the compression stroke ( I am sure you know how to do this correctly ) and see where your rotor is pointing
Next, I would check the ground from the battery - post to the ecu housing to make sure there IS a ground from the battery to your body.
Then I would hot wire it, by passing the bulk head with a jumper off the + side of your battery to your coil and pore about 3oz of gas in the carb then useing a screw driver (with your key on just in case) between the starter relay and see what happens.
Yes! I have been here before many years ago and even though the fire wall showed a ground to the ecu it did not show a ground to the - side if the battery because the ground from the engine block was not making it to the body.
I am looking forward to seeing a big :cheers::cheers: that you have it started and can tell us what it was Tom :happy1: Good luck my friend :happy1:
pastortom1
Well-Known Member
You got ruffled undies because I didn't follow your specific order ?
Wow. Ignore away if it makes you feel better. Whatever you think is "best".
pastortom1
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the fuel system is fine......It's shootin' gas like a champ.....and the light does work......checked the plugs for visible spark as well.....nothing.
What I wish I could find is a schematic for the bulkhead connector.......and I'm gonna check the grounds again, but my back ain't gonna take much more bendin' over the hood.......Can't tell ya' how many times I've been under there in the last few days..........
pastortom1
Well-Known Member
Timing chain is fine, all sounds normal, top dead center is fine, and distributor spins perfectly................even tried a spare distributor from a running Duster, and nothing.
X2, except that I would use a remote starter switch on the starter relay.
pastortom1
Well-Known Member
That's the stuff........Good link. Thanks.
mopar head
Well-Known Member
Try disasemble bulkhead connectors and clean/treat, Been going through same **** for year or so, "intermittant" and just finished up today.
I wiggled wires under dash while trying to start it and she fired, so cleaning I commensed:mrgreen:
I wiggled wires under dash while trying to start it and she fired, so cleaning I commensed:mrgreen:
pastortom1
Well-Known Member
I think you're right about the connector and such.........
I don't think it's ever been cleaned........I've been working on one block at a time, but it's a real backache...........
I really wish someone had already pinpointed the connection that allows/disallows actual spark to the plugs........This stuff just stumps me.
I don't think it's ever been cleaned........I've been working on one block at a time, but it's a real backache...........
I really wish someone had already pinpointed the connection that allows/disallows actual spark to the plugs........This stuff just stumps me.
mopar head
Well-Known Member
Yeah it`s a royal PIA, but should be done, I cleaned the engine side connectors awhile back but this time I disconnected the bulkhead connector from the firewall and pushed it through so I could get at it a little better, You still have to be small and a contorsionist, I pity a big man, lol. Inspect the housing for signs of heat, mine had a couple places where it looked like it got hot.
I`m going for a celebration drive, at least I know where to look if it acts up again:banghead:
fuse link had got hot too at the connector, you might inspect that too. have fun
I`m going for a celebration drive, at least I know where to look if it acts up again:banghead:
fuse link had got hot too at the connector, you might inspect that too. have fun
Maybe a stupid question but.. have you checked if you got any spark at the sparkplug while cranking the engine?
If you got voltage (11 volts) at the coil while cranking you should have a spark unless there is something wrong with the dist or ECU (when used).
If you got voltage (11 volts) at the coil while cranking you should have a spark unless there is something wrong with the dist or ECU (when used).
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Well my background is in electronics, if the resistor is burning up you either have a bad coil or the wire going from the resistor to the positive side of the coil is shorted to ground. Check it out with a volt/ohm meter Good Luck
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
I agree, dead short somewhere!
Bypass the voltage off the switch.Run a jumper into the input side ot the ballast off the positive post of thebattery.Make sure in park,hit the starter or remote switch.See if it lights,good luck.
Just some past experiences of mine. The ballast resistor will get hot and smoke if it is new when installed. As long as it stops after a little time, this thing cuts system voltage down for the ignition system thru resistance and will be hot. Secondly do you have a tachometer (electronic) I have had these short and kill the ignition system, if you have one try unhooking it and see if it starts. The third I can think of is the radio noise suppressor on the coil. If you have it try unhooking it from coil, they are like a points condenser and can fail causing a short to ground for the coil signal. One thing I forgot, the ecu, from what I recall has got to be grounded to the body. So if your just plugging in a new one without making sure it has a good ground it more than likely wont work.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
While the bulkhead connector could be bad (common problem), that is a long trail. Keep it simple first to diagnose the spark problem. As Memike and other say, jumper straight from battery +12V to coil+, with all other wires disconnected there (no blue ign, no condensor). That takes the key switch, bulkhead and ballast out of the picture. With a DMM, verify +12 V at coil.
Remove the coil output wire from the distributor center post, pull back the boot and arrange it 1/8" from an engine ground. That takes the spark distribution out of the picture. Spin the distributor rotor either with the engine or by hand (removed). You can remove the distributor cap to see what is going on. You should get 4 sparks per engine revolution or 8 sparks per rotor rotation.
If still nothing, you have a problem with either the ignition box, wiring, dist. pickup, or coil. To check the wiring, you need a multimeter. I get for free at Harbor Freight with a coupon.
Remove the coil output wire from the distributor center post, pull back the boot and arrange it 1/8" from an engine ground. That takes the spark distribution out of the picture. Spin the distributor rotor either with the engine or by hand (removed). You can remove the distributor cap to see what is going on. You should get 4 sparks per engine revolution or 8 sparks per rotor rotation.
If still nothing, you have a problem with either the ignition box, wiring, dist. pickup, or coil. To check the wiring, you need a multimeter. I get for free at Harbor Freight with a coupon.
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
Wait! I was hoping he would un wire his entire engine compartment before he tried that and realized he had 2 bad coils or a bad coil wire......
bamacuda
Well-Known Member
Make sure the engine block is well grounded. Several years ago, I had a valiant that would crank and crank, but wouldn't start. Small ground cable and Zoom!
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