DA Problem

-

SpeedThrills

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2008
Messages
2,587
Reaction score
1,457
Location
Very South Jersey
I have a new IR 328B DA. I just went out to the garage to start stripping the paint off the doors of my project.
I have a Craftsman 6.5 HP, 60 gallon compressor. I have it regulated at 90 psi. About 30' of line, no kinks.
The sander starts out gang busters, then slows to an almost stop after maybe 15 seconds. I wait a minute, then it happens over, and over...
The sander is oiled. (Which brings up another question; how do you stop the oil that comes out of the exhaust from contaminating the work?)
This sander may use more air than I can keep up, but that's not the problem here.
Stuck from day one...
 
Last edited:
have you drained your compressor tank lately ?
moisture may be freezing up in the line.
when the da slows, un-hook it look inside the air line coupler, you may see ice crystals
on body working tools, I only use a drop @ beginning of the day
other air tools, may get 2 or more drops of oil
 
Last edited:
have you drained your compressor tank lately ?
moisture may be freezing up in the line.
when the da slows, un-hook it look inside the air line coupler, you may see ice crystals
on body working tools, I only use a drop @ beginning of the day
other air tools, may get 2 or more drops of oil
Haven't drained it since lastMarch. I'll do that.
 
DA's use a lot of air. You can regulate the flow at the DA. Your air tools will spec what they need for air and your compressor should state what it will flow.
 
DA's use a lot of air. You can regulate the flow at the DA. Your air tools will spec what they need for air and your compressor should state what it will flow.
This. ^^ I just looked at the DA specs. Says use 3/8 hose. I'll have to find the specs on the comp. Doesn't sound good for me, though. Where's the "dope" emoji?
 
I ran my d/a on 1/4” air lines forever. Drain water in compressor, raise pressure to 100 at least, run your air hose straight up from tank so any condensing moisture goes back into tank(my biggest improvement for water problem)then install regulator and run it at operating pressure.

Im almost certain its freezing up,but check the screen in the fitting behind the coupler.
My impact became gutless after some rust scale accumulated in the screen. It was then i made changes in my air delivery. Body shops never oil the tools,too risky. I oiled mine after it got a gulp of water.

Ever notice the D/A getting really cold?
 
I drained the comp., didn't really help. But certainly a good idea.
I didn't see any ice, but it was a bit cold like other air tools I have. I didn't really use it that long because it kept slowing down.

Tooljunkie, them theres is words of encouragement. I'll try a few things this week, as I have time.

I bought a bunch of stuff to start the body work this past summer and the budget has no room for any more stuff for quite a while. I'm hoping to spend the time working on the body while the budget recovers.

Thanks for all of the replies. I got pretty discouraged, but I'm good to go again.
 
Whats the CFM rating on your compressor? Is it two stage? Sounds like a lack of CFM to me.
 
There has GOT to be a basic problem here. A 6.5 hp compressor should operate that sander fine, regardless of the size of the tank. 15 seconds? This sounds like either something is freezing and plugging as suggested, or you have a regulator that is failing. You have an inline trap/ filter? Pull it apart see what is inside. Regulator? Bypass it

Try something besides the sander.........a blow gun......or just an open connector nipple. Plug in a quick connect nipple and use it as a blow gun. The thing should flow loud, fast, and hard until the tank starts to exhaust itself and the pump kicks on.

Please detail......or post a photo............of what is inline between the tank and the sander

One person's take on the bullshit ratings of airflow and motor HP

Evaluating True Horsepower and CFM Ratings of Air Compressors
 
I agree, most any compressor with 5hp or larger should have adequate cfm. My Quincy has a 7.5hp and puts out 22.6cfm @ 175psi. It will run a DA all day long without batting an eye. Im just curious of the specs on his compressor are.
I have seen 6hp single stage compressors before. A safe rule of thumb when buying an air compressor is to get the biggest one you can afford and your electric will support. For me I couldnt go any bigger because of the electric demand. This one pulls a whopping 80-90 peak amps when it starts up!
 
I have to see if I can find the model number on the comp, so I can find specs. It certainly doesn't owe me anything. I bought it for $25 with a thrown rod. I put $100 worth of parts in it and it has been great for 12 years. Damned thing is loud though, diaphragm, not piston.
 
Yup they loud. Would never own one. Bought an omega about 4 years ago. Its in an oversize closet to keep the noise down. I open the door if i need to use a lot of air,sandblasting for example.
 
If you buy a new compressor look for something that turns low rpm. Mine runs @1750 and is very quiet.
 
Model number is 919.16560
Parts direct shows a 919.16500. Looks the same. They show the owners manual, no specs. Something tells me they're not proud of the specs.
Couldn't find them by googling either.
 
Is that a twin or a single jug? 6.5 CFM at 90 psi.....with a 3/8 hose
 
Pop the covers off the heads and check the reed valves. After time they tend to either crack or just not seal which keeps it from building the pressure properly. Also take a look at the piston bores. Those use something like a leather for a ring seal and it also tends to wear especially if it is in a dirty environment and will score the cylinder.
 
I agree with above about the reed valves. Sometimes they get a little dirt or carbon under them. They can also crack or just warp. If they are not cracked you can usually flip em over and get some more use out of them. If parts are available still the stuff to do the valves are usually inexpensive.
However, if you have problems with the valves the symptoms are usually long run time. It takes much longer to build pressure because so much is leaking by. Does yours seem to be running longer than it used to?
 
It runs the same as it always has.

Today, I opened up the regulator (115 psi) and cut it back at the sander. It was much better. I didn't have time to do much. I'll get back to it this weekend, I hope.
 
Do you keep your air tools oiled up? A dry air tool will lag, especially the cheap DA sanders.
 
It runs the same as it always has.

Today, I opened up the regulator (115 psi) and cut it back at the sander. It was much better. I didn't have time to do much. I'll get back to it this weekend, I hope.

I already told you. Stop screwing with the sander. Bypass the regulator get ahead (towards the compressor from any trap or regulator. Take a nozzle of some sort and confirm you have lots of air. Then hook up the sander and see what you get.

Might be a regulator defective.....How cold is it? Might be some moisture in there freezing
 
I already told you. Stop screwing with the sander. Bypass the regulator get ahead (towards the compressor from any trap or regulator. Take a nozzle of some sort and confirm you have lots of air. Then hook up the sander and see what you get.

Might be a regulator defective.....How cold is it? Might be some moisture in there freezing
Everything else I hook up works fine. I'm pretty sure the sander just uses too much air.
I tried it for a while yesterday with the regulator wide open. It still slows down about the same as before.
I have a 3/8 air hose I can use. I'm going to get high flow fittings. I never used them before. Anything on this page that'll work?https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...efix=3/8+high+flow,aps,135&crid=1Q7YB12AY8SH9
 
Reg wont flow the air. If its running out of air before compressor kicks in, there is a restriction in your air supply. Not the couplers either. I run an ingersoll da about 3 years old and it works fine. No regulator.
Even with 3/8” air hose the barb in the hose is your choke point, so high flow will make little difference.
 
-
Back
Top