Dartin for Divorce

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just make sure the nurse doesn't get busy elsewhere when the moment comes, when the 2nd one decided it was time, no one was in the room except me, mama and the kid :rolleyes:
 
just make sure the nurse doesn't get busy elsewhere when the moment comes, when the 2nd one decided it was time, no one was in the room except me, mama and the kid :rolleyes:

I tell my wife all the time I'll deliver the baby that it's ok because I'm going to be a Dr, but then we both laugh because really I'll only be a dentist

I will say this even in a hospital gown she looks 100x better than me and I definitely married up.

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So since I'm sitting here waiting I've been doing a bunch of reading.

I know I should learn to rebuild a carb and do mine, but... I think I sold myself on the Edelbrock AVS2 650 cfm with electric choke. This not only gives me a new carb that I know is working and functioning properly but gives me a carb to learn on which has great reviews!

Also I'm still deciding on the radiator. I have a trans cooler on the front of my radiator it looks like but honestly I don't know how that all works as of yet. From some light reading I've seen that trans heat can run into the radiator, (cold case and ecp mention this on their sites as well I believe) and like mentioned previously that Speedway motors doesn't have an attachment at the bottom of the radiator for the trans cooling.
 
Check your PMs (Inbox).

Having the trans cooler in front of the radiator isn't great, but where else can it get airflow? It's still better than having the cooler inside the radiator, IMHO.
 
It's in the radiator, stock location. No problems. But this isn't a stock radiator. Contrary to "modern" thinking about aluminun being "better", I bought a great 3-row brass radiator from Cool Craft about 10 years ago. Brass transfers heat better than aluminum. So for a given size, and all else being equal, should keep the engine cooler than aluminum. This may be disputed... however I have had excellent luck with the brass. Plus it looks more stock. But it is heavy, and expensive. They are over $500 today.
 
I recommend you put a block on your computer to the Summit website, also many people say you should keep all of your receipts when working on or restoring a car, I think its better if you just throw them away, that way you won't ever be able to look at them and figure how much money project cars cost. LOL
 
It's in the radiator, stock location. No problems. But this isn't a stock radiator. Contrary to "modern" thinking about aluminun being "better", I bought a great 3-row brass radiator from Cool Craft about 10 years ago. Brass transfers heat better than aluminum. So for a given size, and all else being equal, should keep the engine cooler than aluminum. This may be disputed... however I have had excellent luck with the brass. Plus it looks more stock. But it is heavy, and expensive. They are over $500 today.

Yep just looked at them, they look nice but I have to get a deal, I'm still a broke dental student so I always look for deals hence why I look at the fs adds here before on the "brand new" store bought stuff.

I'll probably end up with an ECP or Cold Case radiator, set it up and forget it (hopefully).

I'm also searching the threads here to see how everyone is mounting their extra guages. I had an A-Pillar pod in my last rubicon, but it seems like that doesn't really work on the A-bodies. I also saw a guy made his own custom one out of an extra dash he had but that looked like tons of work and I have a hard time reading the electrical diagrams still.
 
I recommend you put a block on your computer to the Summit website, also many people say you should keep all of your receipts when working on or restoring a car, I think its better if you just throw them away, that way you won't ever be able to look at them and figure how much money project cars cost. LOL

This is funny! If I block summit I still have Jegs :rofl:

I keep most of my receipts, but honestly I haven't spent a crazy amount just yet, and a lot of my purchases have been to buy testing type of tools and all the small stuff which adds up.

The radiator and Carb will be the "big purchases." I also think I am going to sell my spare front end with the kelsey hayes set up because I'll most likely do Wilwoods (My favorite for no specific reason), and I'll list those stock manifolds because they will be paper weights for me. Remember I have a franken Dart which will never be worth the big bucks restored to completely stock.
 
This is funny! If I block summit I still have Jegs :rofl:

I keep most of my receipts, but honestly I haven't spent a crazy amount just yet, and a lot of my purchases have been to buy testing type of tools and all the small stuff which adds up.

The radiator and Carb will be the "big purchases." I also think I am going to sell my spare front end with the kelsey hayes set up because I'll most likely do Wilwoods (My favorite for no specific reason), and I'll list those stock manifolds because they will be paper weights for me. Remember I have a franken Dart which will never be worth the big bucks restored to completely stock.


My 69 Dart is quite a blend also, which is why I recently decided to call it the Blue Mutt. LOL
Most things I have done to a few of the other cars I did more than once, some seem avoidable but others it seemed they had to be done to see if I liked it or not, it does seem like the tweeking, upgrading, and finishing never end. try to find a way to never have the car completely down for too long, that's when you will start ending up with more cars LOL
 
get something like THIS with all electric gauges. it's fairly easy to install and you can always go mechanical later if you think you want to. these are easy to hang from the bottom of the dash or A/C vent. also get a tach and you'll be set. check out ebay, you can find new old stock stuff cheep.
most? a lot? of the people here with automatic transmissions run an external cooler. either by itself or in conjunction with the one built into the radiator. if it already has one plumbed in great, but i'd deal with the reliability stuff first.

hope the wife and new kid are doing well
 
get something like THIS with all electric gauges. it's fairly easy to install and you can always go mechanical later if you think you want to. these are easy to hang from the bottom of the dash or A/C vent. also get a tach and you'll be set. check out ebay, you can find new old stock stuff cheep.
most? a lot? of the people here with automatic transmissions run an external cooler. either by itself or in conjunction with the one built into the radiator. if it already has one plumbed in great, but i'd deal with the reliability stuff first.

hope the wife and new kid are doing well

Thanks! The wife and baby Rose are doing wonderful. My wife is the greatest, she kicked Rose out at 1:48am. Weighing 6lbs 11oz and 19in long. She's definitely a calm baby so far, we will see how long that lasts though.

That's almost exactly what I was looking at . I want to run oil pressure, engine coolant temp and was thinking A/F guage. I already have a tach, it's mounted to the steering wheel but I don't know how much I like it there.

Are electric gauges as accurate as mechanical gauges?
 
Thanks! The wife and baby Rose are doing wonderful. My wife is the greatest, she kicked Rose out at 1:48am. Weighing 6lbs 11oz and 19in long. She's definitely a calm baby so far, we will see how long that lasts though.

That's almost exactly what I was looking at . I want to run oil pressure, engine coolant temp and was thinking A/F guage. I already have a tach, it's mounted to the steering wheel but I don't know how much I like it there.

Are electric gauges as accurate as mechanical gauges?

:thumbsup: congratulations. can't wait to see the car seat in the dart :D.
electric is perfectly fine for street use. A/F down the road, you have a lot to do already. i wouldn't mount the tach to the steering wheel, too hard to watch as it spins around when you go around corners...
 
i've always had problems with tach placement in a-bodies.
rally cluster...
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console mount...
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misc home brew, thanks to the original posters...
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hood mount, cool...
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my 74' that's for sale...
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and my valiant...
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they all have good and bad to consider
 
Kursplat- those gauges look good, I am just trying to avoid drilling holes into the dash, I think I'll try to fab something up on top of the dash though, hopefully not having to drill into my perfect non cracked dash.

Thanks for all the congrats! We are just chilling at the hospital and daddy is looking at car parts he doesn't need, and I cancelled my patients for tomorrow so maybe I'll mess with the Dart when we get home.
 
Kursplat- those gauges look good, I am just trying to avoid drilling holes into the dash, I think I'll try to fab something up on top of the dash though, hopefully not having to drill into my perfect non cracked dash.
for the tach, here ya go. i did punch a couple holes in the speaker grill, oh well, building the car i want.
 
for the tach, here ya go. i did punch a couple holes in the speaker grill, oh well, building the car i want.

Oh I would never be one to tell someone how to build their car, you do you! I just remember looking for old VW parts and clean dashes were always the hardest to find. I'm imagining the same would be true for the Dart so I'm going to try to keep it as hole free as I can.

I love that dash piece, that's exactly how I saw some others mount their extra gauges in their cars. It looks like it might work well, maybe I'd be able to fab something up too. Something to add to my never ending list haha.
 
Oh I would never be one to tell someone how to build their car, you do you!
i didn't take it that way. just pointing out the problems that crop up when deciding where to put this stuff. you're always balancing where do i want it vs what do i need to do to get it there. in my case placement was more important then making some holes
 
Congrats on the new baby!!

As far as the gauges go, I’ve seen somewhere on here where someone built a strap/bracket that hooked under the front of the dash pad, went over the dash pad and hooked under the back of the pad. The gauges were mounted to that strap.
 
Got an AVS2 carb. Got one from Jegs for $319(re-manufactured) and it gets sent directly from Edelbrock. Jegs has $20 off of 250 and then Edelbrock has a rebate $50 back if you send in a usable 4 barrel carb so at 250 for a new carb I should be pretty happy.

Ordering a direct fit radiator from Cold Case and I should never have over heating problems and hopefully the radiator lasts me for many years to come.
 
Ordering a direct fit radiator from Cold Case and I should never have over heating problems and hopefully the radiator lasts me for many years to come.
i hate to say it at this point, but think about removing the thermostat when you pull the radiator, (you don't need to use a gasket for this), and flush as much crud out as you can before the new radiator goes in. you can also save the coolant you just put back in too. drain it into a new drain pan and when you pour it back in, strain it through cheese cloth or something. don't forget to put the thermostat back in
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