if the timkins are good, just keep those. in a mostly stock car with regular maintenance they'll last forever
Dartin for Divorce
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
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69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Nope. You do not have room to put another BC on those axles. Not unless you want to have the holes welded up, and have the flanges re-machined to make them flat again. By the time you find someone to do that work properly, and pay them, it's easier, and better, to get new axles from Dr Diff. Needs new brakes too.
be safe then.
reason i wouldn't worry about it: ~25 years ago when i did the conversion on my first 340 car, the owner of the axle shop who'd done a lot of these over the years, told me his experience was they're good for around 400 hp on street tires. real ones, no cheater slicks. i hammered mine on the street daily for 10 years and never had a problem. but again, do what seems safest
Needs new brakes? Like a bbp drum set up or bbp disc brakes?
I think that is why I went with getting new shoes and internals for my current drum set up, the bbp swap is going to cost a little bit of dough to do right now. I'll eventually find a deal though!
I commend you on looking for deals. It almost becomes a sickness. Always on Craigslist, eBay and going to swap meets but persistance pays off. I found a BRAND NEW pair of TTI headers for my Dart at a swap meet for $375 and a complete four wheel disc conversion on eBay for less than a grand. I always tell people that the bargains aren't going to come and find you!
Well I've missed out ofln my last 2 chances of great deals on an AVS2 carb, and Edelbrock is back ordered on reman units so I'm waiting for the next deal to come up.
Plus I'm a cheap, and I set budgets formyself to try and keep myself from spending more than I should; even if financially it wouldn't make much of a difference to spend the extra 100 here and there.
Couldn't help myself. Found one local in Las Vegas at an auto parts store. They gave it to me at their cost 315+ tax; because you can buy it for 310 brand new right now off Google.
Just picked up my son from school, car didn't get hot one bit, guage was just barely over the 0 mark.
Smells like gas big time when I drive it and has a tough time starting if it's been sitting a week between drives so I'm glad I got the new carb.
It's tonight's project, and maybe exhaust shop first thing in the AM. I need to stop listening to exhaust clips on FABO because I just want more loud, and I need to stop reading these 4-500 hp build threads because I want more power .
I will say, even if it's only going from 30-50mph the car sounds like it is going a million miles an hour and the kids faces light up and think it's so cool. I love being the fun and cool dad.
Just picked up my son from school, car didn't get hot one bit, guage was just barely over the 0 mark.
Smells like gas big time when I drive it and has a tough time starting if it's been sitting a week between drives so I'm glad I got the new carb.
It's tonight's project, and maybe exhaust shop first thing in the AM. I need to stop listening to exhaust clips on FABO because I just want more loud, and I need to stop reading these 4-500 hp build threads because I want more power .
I will say, even if it's only going from 30-50mph the car sounds like it is going a million miles an hour and the kids faces light up and think it's so cool. I love being the fun and cool dad.
Dave 74 Dart
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear that it didn't over heat or puke on the garage floor. Today's gas will evaporate a lot quicker from the carb.( made for higher pressure efi systems ?)Seems alot of us have the same problem if we don't start them every couple days. Some guys use an electric fuel pump so the carb gets "primed" for easier starts. Also, depending on the cam ect, these engines prefer a bit richer fuel mixture at idle.
Didn't puke, I checked the levels in the rad before driving off. The coolant is right at the upper fin, but it's disgusting lol. Apparently this engine block and rad are still dirty. Hopefully more stuff keeps breaking off as I drive it more.
Now to figure out how to mount this carb. I actually think I have an electric fuel pump, when I turn the key I get an electrical pumping that sounds like an electric fuel pump in a newer car
Dave 74 Dart
Well-Known Member
Maybe try leaving the key in "run "for 10 seconds before you try to start it next time it sits for a while. Carb swap should be fairly straightforward. Good luck !
Yea I read the directions and it doesn't look to bad.
Checked my vacuum about 3 while ideling and 20 when open throttle. Is that where the whole vacuum advance comes from when timing an engine? Or does the timing mark on the pulley move about 20 marks?
Lol I just hooked it up to the carb thought that's what the Edelbrock carb directions were asking for.
I will hook it up to the vacuum source in the am, it's to late to be starting the engine right now .
Ok, hooked up at the vacuum between valve cover and carb. Per a wonderful guide I was given, where steady between 8-14 could mean idle timing is off, maybe my timing is off as my vacyum is 13-14 while idling .
Idle vacuum is first picture
Under load is second picture.
Idle vacuum is first picture
Under load is second picture.
New carb installed, just trying to figure out where to tie in the 12v power source from. Seems like many used the ballist resistor from the alternator but the directions say to not use the alternator.
I found a wire that is not attached to anything in on my firewall, it looks like it was unplugged when the vacuum advance was installed. Is this a 12v power source I could splice into?
I also tightened down the Lokar cable as it was kind of loose on the last carb, installed a new fuel filter and hose for the fuel.
I found a wire that is not attached to anything in on my firewall, it looks like it was unplugged when the vacuum advance was installed. Is this a 12v power source I could splice into?
I also tightened down the Lokar cable as it was kind of loose on the last carb, installed a new fuel filter and hose for the fuel.
Photos didn't upload
Did that, and put the plug in the hole on the rear of the carb
Dave 74 Dart
Well-Known Member
Being in Vegas, would you even need a choke? If no, just adjust it wide open and don't worry about the electric wire. If you need a power source, you can tie into the windshield wiper motor.
She starts great! But is idling at about 1800-2k rpms, so I need to get that down, way down! Haha .
Dave 74 Dart
Well-Known Member
Cool ! Is the engine warmed up, choke fully open and off high idle ? Here's a pic of the electrical connector on the wiper motor ( I put an inline fuse between it and the choke)
I connected to the one on the left.
I would tell you how it's idling now but I can't keep the dang thing running long enough I first leaned out the choke, then put it back to the middle, I know I'm low on gas but definitely not out. Maybe I need to fill the tank and see if that's it, but when I pump the gas when it kicks over the car pushes gas into the carb, u can hear it .
I would tell you how it's idling now but I can't keep the dang thing running long enough I first leaned out the choke, then put it back to the middle, I know I'm low on gas but definitely not out. Maybe I need to fill the tank and see if that's it, but when I pump the gas when it kicks over the car pushes gas into the carb, u can hear it .
Got it, adjusted the idle speed screw, it's idling around 900 right now. Such better throttle response already just in the garage, doesn't smell like straight gas. I think I will drive to the gas station and see how we do.
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Dave 74 Dart
Well-Known Member
I've never had a brand new carb but I would think it's set up to run decently out of the box. Can you get it back to "starts great but idles at 1800" . Fully warmed up, the choke flap should be close to vertical.
Idle speed is nice right now 
I think I it's running a little lean during open throttle though, so I may try to adjust the mixture screws
I think I it's running a little lean during open throttle though, so I may try to adjust the mixture screws
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