dash voltage regulator operation couple questions

-

Hideogumperjr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2011
Messages
278
Reaction score
12
Location
Bothell, Wa
Hey guys working out the issues with my 63 Dart and am at the dash at this time.

I have low reading on my fuel gauge, nearly full tank reads ~1/8 tank. Temperature gauge reads high even though I know temp is correctly. 190 degrees on external mechanical gauge reads almost out of acceptable scale on gauge.

Ive checked my fuel sender and it is adequately grounded, sender reads 64 ohms at current fuel level.
I found this info in a thread and wonder if it pertains to my 63 Dart also so can someone verify these readings please?
L = 73.7 Ohms (empty)
M = 23.0 Ohms (1/2)
H = 10.2 Ohms (full)

I have read many threads on the function of the dash v regulator and know it pulses. Of course my digital meter wont show the operation so I have placed my scope on it and I see that it pulses about once every second or so. Can anyone verify that this is the proper duty cycle?

Thanks.
John
 
The thing is, there never was any "spec" on this subject. In other words you replaced the box (the IVR) with the correct replacement

Only way I know of "back then" to check gauges was to use the gauge test tool, which is three switchable resistors, and if the gauges (both) are wrong, you replace the IVR or otherwise troubleshoot to find bad connections, etc
 
yep makes sense, that would be the best test with the tool and that is my wondering about those values above I found out on FABO. Ill give those a try tomorrow to see what they come up with gauge wise and report back. The thermal operation of the ivr has worked for many years on many vehicles so it must have quite some integrity. The question on the period of the ivr was curiosity on my part.


I have installed my VDO gauges for oil pressure and coolant temperature and voltage for safety sake but would like to have the original gauges working just for the period part of my restoration.
The ivr replacement is all behind the dash so I have no problem replacing it if necessary but having a gas gauge reporting correct volume is kinda important, I hate running out of gas!!

thanks
john
 
There was an awfully long thread not too long ago about adjusting the fuel gauge and building a variable power supply for the fuel gauge to correct it. I tried to read through it but there was so much back and forth that's right/that's wrong it was hard to follow. I never did find out if it was resolved.

My gauge reads 5/8 when full.
 
Somewhere above you stated the fuel sender shows 64 ohms. That would produce about 1/8 range report. I could spell out the 2 possible faults you can expect to find when you pull the sender. Not necessary. It's broke.
 
thanks Red/Rob.. Bad unit, whn I got the car the fuel tank had been replaced but when I checked the continuity of the gauge I could still see the old undercoating on the sender so it is still original and bad.
Cheers.
 
So does anyone have any input on a good sending unit? I read in one thread about the SPECTRA PREMIUM unit being made in Cananda and was a good quallty unit. Is this information correct?

Do I need the special tool I see listed on eBay?

Thanks for all the help guys, I don't think I could have ever undertaken such a task without yalls help, input and support.

Cheers.
 
Be aware that in 63 the IVR is built into the fuel gauge and if it is bad you can buy a kit to put an electronic IVR on it but you must also disable the original IVR in the gauge.

Brian
 
Yep thanks Brian, I found the linear voltage regulator upgrade and the one from demon among others. Right now the sender is what appears to be TU so that is priority now and finding a good reasonably priced non-Chinese one at that.
Suggestions?
Cheers.
 
Bought sender for my 67 through ebay from VansAuto. Less than 60.00 Don't know where it was made. No problem with it.
A lot of what you read about senders and gauges will be later models with gauges that operate on about 13 ohms internally. I want to say your 63 model has 20 ohm gauges but my memory fails me. 20 ohm gauges are much more accurate but they don't live as long. Ignore all that for now.
Sender first. Take a closer look at the gauge if/when we have to.
 
So does anyone have any input on a good sending unit?
I bought one off ebay ~$45. Mine has 3/8" outlet and 1/4" vent/return. Stainless. Most look like they come from the same factory, just price varies. Values above are correct for 1963 (maybe 1950-1990 Mopar). Mine was a little erratic when bench-tested. I removed the cover and bent the wiper arm, then reads smoothly and correct. I also had the dash cluster on the bench and tweaked both to read right. I posted within the last year.
 
-
Back
Top