Dating previous owner's disc conversion

-
You're seeing things. The spindles can be switched side for side without changing the geometry. Only difference is where the caliper brackets end up. The later cars came that way from the factory, that's one of the reasons why you can use F body hoses when you swap the location.
 
mcodecuda said:
You will also need to swap the lower ball joints from spindle to spindle.
Click to expand...
So keep the ball joints on their original sides?
I was thinking just disconnect the upper ball joint from the spindle, then unbolt the lower ball joint/steering knuckle from the spindle, leaving it attached to the lower control arm.
 
Trevor B said:
So keep the ball joints on their original sides?
I was thinking just disconnect the upper ball joint from the spindle, then unbolt the lower ball joint/steering knuckle from the spindle, leaving it attached to the lower control arm.
Click to expand...

If you swap the lower ball joints with the spindles they'll point forward. :D Lower ball joints stay put. Just swap the spindles, caliper brackets and calipers.
 
For fun and grins, you can endevour to measure your master cylinder bore & when you take your calipers off you can measure the diameter of the piston cups...as a reference of what you have.
 
Rats... Wish I'd known this when the carve was apart earlier. Oh well.

Spindle switch was a success. Lower control arms and ball joints stayed put, spindles and brakes changed sides. The calipers are not great but will work for the time being (bores a bit pitted). My parts lookup research showed them as having come from a Fifth Avenue or the like.

F body hoses were too long. Hoses on there actually gained some length on the switch.

Also discovered that some of the slop in the steering was due to the fact that the steering box was really loose... Actually it was pivoting slightly. Now tight.

Looks like pretty much all the suspension bushings are going to have to be replaced.

In any event, thank you everyone for your help!
20161105_105432.jpg
 
Did you remember to use lock tite on the caliper bracket bolts....they will come loose.

Treblig
 
Trevor B said:
Rats... Wish I'd known this when the carve was apart earlier. Oh well.

F body hoses were too long. Hoses on there actually gained some length on the switch.

Also discovered that some of the slop in the steering was due to the fact that the steering box was really loose... Actually it was pivoting slightly. Now tight.

Looks like pretty much all the suspension bushings are going to have to be replaced.

In any event, thank you everyone for your help!
Click to expand...
I would like to see a pic of your completed assembly but I really don't need to before stating "Something still aint right with your fluid hoses". When the 73 up hoses are routed wrong either the wheel rubs a hole in them or steering to end stops pulls them apart.
Duponts Loctite was originally designed especially for those 3 bolts that attach Chryslers steering gear to the K member. If they aren't installed properly they will come loose again. Eventually the blind/no access nuts in the K are damaged. Mostly early A owners ( before the Loctite ) can testify to what level of Biotch that is.
 
RedFish said:
I would like to see a pic of your completed assembly but I really don't need to before stating "Something still aint right with your fluid hoses". When the 73 up hoses are routed wrong either the wheel rubs a hole in them or steering to end stops pulls them apart.
Duponts Loctite was originally designed especially for those 3 bolts that attach Chryslers steering gear to the K member. If they aren't installed properly they will come loose again. Eventually the blind/no access nuts in the K are damaged. Mostly early A owners ( before the Loctite ) can testify to what level of Biotch that is.
Click to expand...

Regarding the steering gear bolts - that is actually really good to know. Will add Loctite next time I can get the car on the lift.

As to the hose, I'll take a picture when I can. But basically because the brake lines were mounted back behind the LCAs and the previous set up of the calipers had the
 
Yeah I'm with redfish on the hose routing. It's easy to not account for the full range of suspension and steering travel at all the extremes, full extension and full steering lock in both directions, full compression and full lock etc. What looks like "too long" when the cars on jacks with the wheels straight ahead may not be when things get moving. Or maybe they sent you the wrong part, because we all know that happens.
 
Last edited:
Here's the thing - and I'll still get some pictures when I can -
The swap moved the brake hose inlet on the caliper closer to the frame where it was mounted.
 
Last edited:
Trevor B said:
Regarding the steering gear bolts - that is actually really good to know. Will add Loctite next time I can get the car on the lift.

As to the hose, I'll take a picture when I can. But basically because the brake lines were mounted back behind the LCAs and the previous set up of the calipers had the
Click to expand...
Yes sir. In the proper orientation the hose routed diagonally across from back to front. It does look as if moving the caliper rearward makes the path shorter. If you have 73 up a-body calipers ( sure looks like to my eye ) and those hoses, those hoses have a short length of hard steel line at caliper end. That's where the fault occurs.
On the other hand, If you have calipers and hoses from something other than a-body... I don't know.
Bottom line, keep the hoses off the wheel and tire. Don't kink or stretch the hoses or they will fail.
 
Last edited:
I had said that if you have something other than a-body parts I don't know. And that's not a-body parts.
So... Never rubs tire or wheel lip, never kinks, never stretches at crimp ends applies to any.
Cheers
 
Yeah - there seem to be several cars here. I looked up the calipers and came up with M body?! No idea if all the parts came from the same vehicle or what. For better or worse, my only experience so far with A Body parts has been my '73 Duster so I am still learning.

Anyway, thank you all so much for the tips and help. Getting to know this car and all of its various mysteries is sure to take a while.

Stupid question: do a separate proportioning valve and Hydraulic System Safety Switch work together?
 
Last edited:
Beautiful car, with classic lines.
Until you get a LBP rear-end (or wheel adapters), you'll need to carry 2 spares, or go spare-less like many new cars that come w/ just a can of inflater in the trunk.
Your booster/MC looks like a common after-market unit you can find on ebay, etc. I think the MC is same PN as 1980's Dodge trucks, which many here use. Probably better than the heavy, rusty cast-iron, leaky-cap "correct" part. Check rockauto for PN's. I think all A-body 1973+ brake parts were the same until the F-bodies, but rock should show.
 
I have two different bolt patterns on my Barracuda. I just bought a dual pattern wheel with the correct offset (back space) so I only need to carry one spare. The wheel has two different bolt patterns, one for the front and one for the back (rear end).

treblig
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top