Differences between EARLY A-body vs. LATER A-body (64'-66 'Cuda vs. '67-69 'Cuda)

[COOL WHIPPS LLC]

Could somebody on here please point me in the right direction on these two platforms? The reason I'm searching is that I want to know how different these two versions are for the purpose of utilizing suspension and subframe components. I'd like to know just how different they are dimensionally; track width, wheelbase, width inside the frame rails, etc. I'm thinking of performing a later Hemi swap and the components just aren't there for those guys on a budget to make a direct swap to the early A-body. I find it hard to believe that these two vehicles can be drastically different to where I can't get close enough with the Gen 2 stuff and some slight modifications. I have the '65 'Cuda and want to place some decent power and handling into it for possible autocrossing and street/strip duties. Please point me in the direction of the information I need to make informed decisions. Thanks in advance.

 

[C130 Chief]

So everything sheetmeal is different, meaning the entire body, along with the front K-member. The front track is narrower as is the distance between the front frame rails. The whole engine compartment is narrower by about 2 inches. Unfortunately that's just enough to cause a direct conflict between the engine and steering gear box. There have been a few early A Gen III hemi swaps shown on these forums, but it's not a bolt-in deal. Look back a few years to member Tincup who did an extensive write up of his early-A swap. Tincup's 63 Dart w/5.7 Hemi

 

[COOL WHIPPS LLC]

@C130 Chief - Thanks for replying. I was looking for more information related to the footprint and K-member/suspensions, etc. Seems like the only available suspension upgrades for the early-A are in the neighborhood of $5K. I was hoping to beat that by half somehow.

 

[Killer6]

@C130 Chief - Thanks for replying. I was looking for more information related to the footprint and K-member/suspensions, etc. Seems like the only available suspension upgrades for the early-A are in the neighborhood of $5K. I was hoping to beat that by half somehow.

The Early-A is physically narrower by about 2 1/2" frame rail to frame rail, that means the centerlink, K-member are as well, and the T-bars will be closer the same.
The upper & lower arms, knuckles, brakes, shocks & T-bars can all be swapped early to late.
What type of setup are You looking at?
Oh, & the engine mounts further forward by just under an inch on the Early-A, so Late-A headers are out from both width & steering linkage contact.

 

[Dan the man]

So everything sheetmeal is different, meaning the entire body, along with the front K-member. The front track is narrower as is the distance between the front frame rails. The whole engine compartment is narrower by about 2 inches. Unfortunately that's just enough to cause a direct conflict between the engine and steering gear box. There have been a few early A Gen III hemi swaps shown on these forums, but it's not a bolt-in deal. Look back a few years to member Tincup who did an extensive write up of his early-A swap. Tincup's 63 Dart w/5.7 Hemi

Just my opinion, I avoid most all pre 1970 A bodies because of the lack of replacement sheet metal, the '67 is a one year only glove box door, the grill parts that are available are outta sight in price.

 

[C130 Chief]

Just my opinion, I avoid most all pre 1970 A bodies because of the lack of replacement sheet metal, the '67 is a one year only glove box door, the grill parts that are available are outta sight in price.

Yeah, but side marker lights are a bridge too far for some of us.

 

[RustyRatRod]

A BUNCH. Wheelbase, frame rail width, sheet metal, overall weight, interior room and on and on. I love the early platform. I have a 64 Valiant. They are light, handle well and do not take a great deal of power to make them spunky and fun to drive. I even kept mine a slant 6 and built a pretty warm 225 for it. I love it and we drive it everywhere. Of course the 67 and up cars have much larger engine bays that can fit big block power if that's your thing.

 

[barbee6043]

I have always loved the looks of early B cars and thus I see a lot of the same style in the early A cars as in dart especially.
To me the big deal that separates the early from later A's is the need for room for the big block.
All A bodies in general have really jumped up in price form the "older" days!!
People that can't fab any metal need to just stay with the models they can go to the "store" and buy their metal for.

 

[Dan the man]

I have always loved the looks of early B cars and thus I see a lot of the same style in the early A cars as in dart especially.
To me the big deal that separates the early from later A's is the need for room for the big block.
All A bodies in general have really jumped up in price form the "older" days!!
People that can't fab any metal need to just stay with the models they can go to the "store" and buy their metal for.

Even if you have good metal skills the tools needed would cost you a fortune and is it really worth it with no more than you would use them? I've watched Joe Martin on iron resurrection and that guy knows how to work metal.

 

[barbee6043]

^^^ I have a home built metal brake made out of scrap. Works, but not so well, but works. IF a guy will only do one car in his lifetime, just buy a done car, way cheaper. If a guy will stay in this hobby, he will acquire tools and love them.
You'd be surprised what a guy can fab by hand with nothing but a small brain. Like me.
I look for ways to do, not ways to say I can't.

 

[Dan the man]

I have always loved the looks of early B cars and thus I see a lot of the same style in the early A cars as in dart especially.
To me the big deal that separates the early from later A's is the need for room for the big block.
All A bodies in general have really jumped up in price form the "older" days!!
People that can't fab any metal need to just stay with the models they can go to the "store" and buy their metal for.

That's a good way to look at it