Distributor Housing Bushing Replacement

[VAD Gold Rush]

I've got a worn bushing in the distributor housing on my 400 swapped 74 Scamp. Since I'm on a budget with this car (it's called Project Scimp because I'm skimping on non safety parts), I'd like to replace the bushing. I've found that there's very little info on doing this job. Does anyone on here have experience replacing these bushings?

 

[remytherat]

I assume you mean the nylon bushing on the shaft.
Drive out roll pin. Slide it off. Slide new one on. Carefully drive in roll pin.

 

[VAD Gold Rush]

I assume you mean the nylon bushing on the shaft.
Drive out roll pin. Slide it off. Slide new one on. Carefully drive in roll pin.

No, the bronze bushing inside the housing.

 

[Car Nut]

@halifaxhops

 

[Vaanth]

I've got a worn bushing in the distributor housing on my 400 swapped 74 Scamp. Since I'm on a budget with this car (it's called Project Scimp because I'm skimping on non safety parts), I'd like to replace the bushing. I've found that there's very little info on doing this job. Does anyone on here have experience replacing these bushings?

By 1974, Chrysler had removed the bushing replacement procedure from the service manuals, and specified housing replacement if the bushings were worn beyond specifications. Later electronic distributors did not wear as much as point distributors due to having no shaft contact as there was with the cam and rubbing block of points. The earlier manuals had the procedure. It is for point distributors but the housing bushing replacement is the same as electronic after the distributor is disassembled. The procedure does involve special tools.

Following are the pages from a 1966 service manuals with the procedure:

I've replaced them a couple of times over 30 years ago without using the factory special tools, but I have not needed to replace any in a long time. I just used a drift, some spacers and a press. I was concerned about the lack of burnishing tools, but I got away without using it.

 

[halifaxhops]

Two things not covered since it is a electronic. Ensure the upper shaft oil disk is in place and also the bushing must be above the distributor housing. I have them if needed. 20 each bushing. Burnishing is really only needed if the housing is a bit worn, it also expands the bushing into the case and also makes the inner diameter precise and polished. Most people do not have one pretty expensive.

 

[VAD Gold Rush]

By 1974, Chrysler had removed the bushing replacement procedure from the service manuals, and specified housing replacement if the bushings were worn beyond specifications. Later electronic distributors did not wear as much as point distributors due to having no shaft contact as there was with the cam and rubbing block of points. The earlier manuals had the procedure. It is for point distributors but the housing bushing replacement is the same as electronic after the distributor is disassembled. The procedure does involve special tools.

Following are the pages from a 1966 service manuals with the procedure:
View attachment 1716395887
View attachment 1716395886
View attachment 1716395885
View attachment 1716395884

I've replaced them a couple of times over 30 years ago without using the factory special tools, but I have not needed to replace any in a long time. I just used a drift, some spacers and a press. I was concerned about the lack of burnishing tools, but I got away without using it.

I really appreciate you sharing this with me. That's the kind of information I was hoping to find.

 

[VAD Gold Rush]

Two things not covered since it is a electronic. Ensure the upper shaft oil disk is in place and also the bushing must be above the distributor housing. I have them if needed. 20 each bushing. Burnishing is really only needed if the housing is a bit worn, it also expands the bushing into the case and also makes the inner diameter precise and polished. Most people do not have one pretty expensive.

View attachment 1716395990

To be fair, I strictly run points ignition. Therefore, electronic specific information does not apply. As for the bushing, is that something you have available to buy?

 

[cudamark]

That bushing must be really bad if it's causing a problem. Electronic distributor are pretty forgiving on the air gap.

 

[Murray]

Replacement bushings need to be reamed to size. Best have a pro do it.

 

[67Dart273]

VAD if you want a detailed procedure on how "it was done" run over to MyMopar.com and download an earlier manual, say, 72. They are free for download. The bushings used to be available at the dealers, for almost nothing.

 

[VAD Gold Rush]

That bushing must be really bad if it's causing a problem. Electronic distributor are pretty forgiving on the air gap.

I stated in the comment just prior to yours that I strictly run points. The car doesn't have any of the factory wiring in it, so I set it up as simply as I could.

 

[VAD Gold Rush]

VAD if you want a detailed procedure on how "it was done" run over to MyMopar.com and download an earlier manual, say, 72. They are free for download. The bushings used to be available at the dealers, for almost nothing.

Much appreciated, I'll check that out.

 

[VAD Gold Rush]

Replacement bushings need to be reamed to size. Best have a pro do it.

Pro? I am a pro!
Luckily, I have years of machining experience.