Do I really need a stroker?

[doogievlg]

Does it have a stock 360 cast crank in it now?

What's a rough safe max for HP and TQ for a stock 360 crank.

What are your goals?... HP, TQ, drivability

What are you constraints?...gas octane, gear, converter, drivability, idle, tune-ability

Cast crank. My goals are 500 hp, 550 ft lbs torque and still be able to hop it in and go on short road trips which means pump gas. If I went with stock stroke then 430 hp would be what I shoot for with the same drivability.

I already planned on changing the converter and I have a Holley Blue pump with new push lock hose sitting on the self if needed.

 

[doogievlg]

Here is what I am assuming for the engine build.

Rotating assembly-$2000
Block machine-$1000
Cam-$300
Heads-$1000
Labor-$1000

That comes out to 5,300. I believe I am over estimating on the heads though.

 

[autoxcuda]

Here is what I am assuming for the engine build.

Rotating assembly-$2000
Block machine-$1000
Cam-$300
Heads-$1000
Labor-$1000

That comes out to 5,300. I believe I am over estimating on the heads though.

You already have edelbrock heads, correct? With as delivered valve springs? What cc are they? Are they as cast with no port work or cleanup?

What rocker arms do you have now?

So you are not going to assemble the short block yourself?

What's the pump gas octane rating in your area?

 

[doogievlg]

You already have edelbrock heads, correct? With as delivered valve springs? What cc are they? Are they as cast with no port work or cleanup?

What rocker arms do you have now?

So you are not going to assemble the short block yourself?

The heads were put on right out of the box. Chambers are advertised as 58cc but since I was building a street motor at the time I did not take the time to double check. Current rock arms are standard steel stamped which I know will change with the new cam so I am taking that into account for the total head price. I planned on having them assemble the short block simply because I am not going to be at the garage much until next summer.

 

[doogievlg]

I am making a couple more phone calls today to talk to some machine shops to get their input.

I believe I am close in making a decision after doing a quick estimate on upgrades needed to the rest of the drive train.

 

[autoxcuda]

Your old 360 with the MP . 474 cam combo should have been 375-400 hp? Any comment on the HP/TQ of his current setup???

How many miles and years did you have your current 360? Was it fully rebuilt?

I think it's true current condition and savable parts could factor on what makes sense spending $$ per HP & TQ.

 

[autoxcuda]

The heads were put on right out of the box. Chambers are advertised as 58cc but since I was building a street motor at the time I did not take the time to double check. Current rock arms are standard steel stamped which I know will change with the new cam so I am taking that into account for the total head price. I planned on having them assemble the short block simply because I am not going to be at the garage much until next summer.

58cc? Are they magnum heads? LA heads have a 63 or 65cc head choice?

 

[doogievlg]

58cc? Are they magnum heads? LA heads have a 63 or 65cc head choice?

63cc my mistake. Looked at the wrong notes.

 

[doogievlg]

Your old 360 with the MP . 474 cam combo should have been 375-400 hp? Any comment on the HP/TQ of his current setup???

How many miles and years did you have your current 360? Was it fully rebuilt?

I think it's true current condition and savable parts could factor on what makes sense spending $$ per HP & TQ.

I did a complete rebuild in 2013 on the engine. Had probably 3k miles on it before I noticed the low oil pressure. I am tearing the motor apart this weekend to access the damage. If the bearing took out the crank also then the choice is made for me.

 

[doogievlg]

Your old 360 with the MP . 474 cam combo should have been 375-400 hp? Any comment on the HP/TQ of his current setup???

How many miles and years did you have your current 360? Was it fully rebuilt?

I think it's true current condition and savable parts could factor on what makes sense spending $$ per HP & TQ.

I did a complete rebuild in 2013 on the engine. Had probably 3k miles on it before I noticed the low oil pressure. I am tearing the motor apart this weekend to access the damage. If the bearing tore the crank up too bad then the choice is being made for me.

 

[66jim]

Save ur money cause times they are a changin

 

[pittsburghracer]

Save ur money cause times they are a changin

They sure are. But in a way that's good news. LOTS of guys are switching to the Gen 3 Hemi's so there are deals out there if you keep your eyes and ears open.

 

[yellow rose]

Cast crank. My goals are 500 hp, 550 ft lbs torque and still be able to hop it in and go on short road trips which means pump gas. If I went with stock stroke then 430 hp would be what I shoot for with the same drivability.

I already planned on changing the converter and I have a Holley Blue pump with new push lock hose sitting on the self if needed.

Why more torque than HP? That makes no sense. I'd rather have 550 HP and 450 TQ than what you want.

I'll say this and then I'm done.

Torque is what makes a car FEEL fast.
Horsepower is what makes a car GO fast.

Do you want to go, or feel?

 

[doogievlg]

Why more torque than HP? That makes no sense. I'd rather have 550 HP and 450 TQ than what you want.

I'll say this and then I'm done.

Torque is what makes a car FEEL fast.
Horsepower is what makes a car GO fast.

Do you want to go, or feel?

Both

 

[mario03srt]

Doogievig,

Are you doing the Assy? I paid someone in the MOPAR Club here in Cincy 600.00 to assy my longblock. I paid for all of the stuff, gaskets, paint, etc too. As you know there is a lot to be considered when putting one together, one slip up and something will rear it's ugly head. I did not have any of the "inside" info on doing it myself. Money well spent IMO. Waiting for it sucked way hard though!

Also, do you have the stock oil pan? I highly recommend a better one to keep the oil where it needs to be and w/o aeration. I guess you have a windage tray already.

FYI,
Marion

 

[doogievlg]

Doogievig,

Are you doing the Assy? I paid someone in the MOPAR Club here in Cincy 600.00 to assy my longblock. I paid for all of the stuff, gaskets, paint, etc too. As you know there is a lot to be considered when putting one together, one slip up and something will rear it's ugly head. I did not have any of the "inside" info on doing it myself. Money well spent IMO. Waiting for it sucked way hard though!

Also, do you have the stock oil pan? I highly recommend a better one to keep the oil where it needs to be and w/o aeration. I guess you have a windage tray already.

FYI,
Marion

With this kind of money into the short block I would likely have the machine shop assemble that.

 

[68Dart500]

I'd go with a stroker over a stock stroke motor. Of course I'm a bit biased as I'm 3 weeks away from my new stroker motor arriving at my shop!

 

[dgibby]

Here is what I am assuming for the engine build.

Rotating assembly-$2000
Block machine-$1000
Cam-$300
Heads-$1000
Labor-$1000

That comes out to 5,300. I believe I am over estimating on the heads though.

Add 25% for misc. and I think you're close if you're not using a roller cam.
Roller cam $300.+ Roller lifters $500.- $800. Custom push rods $125.00+
and I do think you'll spend the $1000.00 on the heads if you're going roller rockers.

 

[IQ52]

Best answer I can think of is.....I don't know if you really need a stroker. I know I sure don't.

 

[doogievlg]

Best answer I can think of is.....I don't know if you really need a stroker. I know I sure don't.

That says a lot coming from a man like yourself.

 

[Dartnut]

So, you want the feeling of power and torque too?
Build the stroker then, 500 h.p. is more attainable with more cubes.
Do you NEED one ? No.
Do you want one? Yes.
Get off your wallet and do it, however, be prepared to spend upwards of 10 grand at a reputable shop to get what you want and don't look back or even (over)think about it anymore.
You might even get a good used engine for half of that if you shop around and are patient.
By the sounds of it, you already made your decision, but you are struggling with yourself about the cost.
Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?
I'm fairly cheap as well and personally, i wouldn't build one for myself. But that's me. I would go big block instead if i wanted more power.
However, sometimes you need to either **** or get off the pot to get what you REALLY want...........

 

[doogievlg]

So, you want the feeling of power and torque too?
Build the stroker then, 500 h.p. is more attainable with more cubes.
Do you NEED one ? No.
Do you want one? Yes.
Get off your wallet and do it, however, be prepared to spend upwards of 10 grand at a reputable shop to get what you want and don't look back or even (over)think about it anymore.
You might even get a good used engine for half of that if you shop around and are patient.
By the sounds of it, you already made your decision, but you are struggling with yourself about the cost.
Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?
I'm fairly cheap as well and personally, i wouldn't build one for myself. But that's me. I would go big block instead if i wanted more power.
However, sometimes you need to either **** or get off the pot to get what you REALLY want...........

Pretty much sums up my predicament. I just got off the phone with the second shop and he quoted 6k.

 

[doogievlg]

Then there are companies like Blue print that are selling stroker short blocks for $2500 but with cast parts.

 

[Alex5280]

I consulted with Mike at MRL. I told Mike what I wanted 550 hp and the same torque and run on pump gas. He knew just what the right parts were. It came out at 11.1 to 1 compression. I am in Denver...no air here, Mike knew what to do. I bought all the parts from Mike, he sent them to me and I assembled it. I called it a remote build, Mike's proven parts and me assembling. Machine work was done locally once I had the rotating assemble. Assembly was really pretty darn easy. Take your time and use your torque wrench.

 

[QuickDart360]

If your willing to spend on a stroker then I say go for it! It's like a 440 bigblock in a smaller package. But if not willing to spend the extra cash needed to stroke then the stock 360 stroke is more than adequate. Just consider a different cam intake converter etc...