Dodge Dart Lite

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That's a good Tank. I bought a Sender off eBay, and did not have to bend anything.
 
Always an adventure.
Under the Lite cleaning and looking at rear trans mount bushing.
Look what I found in the exhaust head pipe!
It's aluminum, not steel, 7/16 20 acorn nut.
No nicks, no chunks out of it.
How in the heck did that get there, and stay there?
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I took the drivers side glass out because it had such deep scratches in it.
Also you have to take it out to replace the cat whisker strip, 2 screws are covered by glass.
I also spent a good bit of effort to replace the plastic lock deal on the inside door release.

I am having a hard time determining if my glass is tinted.
Is that on the fender tag? If so I don't know what code it would be.
If it is, it is very faint.
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Classis offers a replacement glass, clear or tinted.
Can someone post a picture of a "Tint" marking.

I was reading another post: Agree... from what I've read the coating used was to cut glare but wasn't considered a tint in the true sense.

Anti glare more than tint.
Do you have any info to share @WV64Signet
I was reading one of your posts.
Thanks in advance.
1976 Dodge Dart Sport.
 

I am having a hard time determining if my glass is tinted
Get a piece of white paper and put it behind the glass if it's green it's tinted

If you still can't tell hold a price of paper up to an un-tinted glass. Yu can see the doference
 
Try any other Mopar trunk keys you have around, or can borrow.
My buddies 74 charger key used to work in my 73 dart
My other buddies 2010 Silverado key fits my 2013 Silverado.
That might be correct for late models. All my plymouths have been ign and doors are odd shape key head. Truck and glove box are round key head. Could you defeat the seat back at the lower / hinge points?
 
Thanks guys, but it's not tinted!
Here is a link to a great tech on glass!
Chrysler glass decoding
That might be correct for late models. All my plymouths have been ign and doors are odd shape key head. Truck and glove box are round key head. Could you defeat the seat back at the lower / hinge points?
I drilled the lock a few months ago.
I bought a key set off ebay to put everything back together.
Unless you use a sledge hammer or an Axe you are not getting through the fold down panel.
Get a piece of white paper and put it behind the glass if it's green it's tinted

If you still can't tell hold a price of paper up to an un-tinted glass. Yu can see the doference
It is very hard to tell!
Even with white paper.
I don't want to order the wrong glass.
 
Yup, factory tint was might like coke bottle green. Blue diffusers over yellow incandescent bulbs gives a similar tint to instrumentation. Schools. Hospitals, everything, green. Replaced the windshield in my 67. That aftermarket glass has the blue tint with heavy shading at top. It don't look so great from outside because all its other glass is clear. The windshield sure is sweet to look out theough. Not 1 little sand star.
 
I spent a couple hours trying to polish my side glass.
It's not working.

So Classic does not sell clear glass for the 76 Sport.
They do have tinted.
So do I buy a 800 dollar kit or just some side windows?
I did get one fuzzy installed, now to remove the passenger window.
This get running and driving deal is getting harder every day.

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Try any other Mopar trunk keys you have around, or can borrow.
My buddies 74 charger key used to work in my 73 dart
My other buddies 2010 Silverado key fits my 2013 Silverado.
I was going to say, 40 years ago or so, the locksmith would hand me a huge chain with 200 or so keys on it. Idea was I go to car try each one till one works, record that number and take it back for him to cut me a key.
 
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Bunch of small stuff done this week.
I did get the steering column out and key cylinder fitted.
The shaft coupler was stuck like chuck.
Worked on the bumper mount modifications.
Removed the emergency brake foot pedal, still cleaning it up.
Installed the new turn signal bezels.
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What started as a simple job has ballooned into a huge goat rope.
PO did not have the keys so I needed to change the steering column key cylinder.
Didn't need to take the column out, but wanted to paint the column inside part, it was a little worn.
First I could not get the coupler off the steering box.
Got the coupler off after a few attacks from different angles.
Of course the rubber seal was ripped, so I ordered a new seal and retainer.
After that I had the column on the bench and everything was going well.
Changing the cylinder was easy enough after disassembling every damn thing.
Putting it back together I found out about the rivets.
There are aluminum rivets on the column jacket for the crush zone.
2 were gone and the 3rd one was loose.
As I was shooting new rivets in, the ball bearings started falling out of the lower column support.
So now I need to find that bearing.
And the column now is in a million pieces.
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If you are talking about the bearing on the engine compartment side, (made of nylon?) there is a bearing number somebody here shared some years ago. people put a new all metal bearing in. Also, you can cut the outer shell off a little closer to the firewall for a cleaner look and some additional clearance.
It may have been @72bluNblu that shared a bearing number, and I will see if I can see anything when I get home. I ASSUME I filed that part number somewhere, but my data is in a shambles, I have no file on my computer started even though I see the value in that. I have to search scraps of paper.
Maybe do a couple searches on this site.
 
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