Dodge Dart Lite

-
I got most of the steering column together.
Didn't work on the coupler.
A couple of issues I found.
First and almost depressing, I broke this little circlip.
20250820_161930.jpg

It fits in front of the lock wheel in one of two groves.
20250820_161952.jpg

It's not shown in my FSM.
So I clipped in the second grove closest to the top of the steering shaft.
That was incorrect as it would not let the upper bearing go in.
So when I popped it out, it broke.
But for the life of me, I do not see what it does.
So I left it out, not that I could find another if I needed to.
The turn signal unit has a ground down roller ball, so the horn might not work.
And one of the cancel cam is cracked so that might be a problem.
Maybe tomorrow I will build the coupler and stick the column in.
20250820_162114.jpg
20250820_161908.jpg
20250820_161916.jpg
 
Got the coupler mounted.
Packed it about half full of grease.
I used my welding vice grips to pull the little tabs in.
I put the little pin back in because I would have a hole and I think this should hold the thing together.
I made sure the coupler will slid on the splines before I assembled everything.
Also a better picture of the lower column support bearing.
Steering Column (44).jpg
Steering Column (45).jpg
Steering Column (46).jpg
Steering Column (42).jpg
 
There is an alignment mark on the shaft that should line up with the mark on the coupler and on the master spline on the gear input shaft.

Also there is a spec for the amount in or out of the coupler the shaft should sit, adjusted by the clamp at the bottom of the column and slots on the dash mount bracket
 
I have all the splines lined up.
Didn't know about in or out, I was going to put it back where it was on the dash.
 

Removed the heater and firewall insulation.
The heater core was bad but I expected it.
PO did ZERO maintenance as far as I can tell.
Amazing the car lasted as far as it did.
I have the DMT heater kit and nothing is broken so it should turn out good.
After I find a heater core.
20250823_110415.jpg
20250823_120350.jpg
 
If you find any of your door hinges have broken the fiberglass plastic I have repair plates the go inside the housings and screws that clamp the hinge on
 
If you find any of your door hinges have broken the fiberglass plastic I have repair plates the go inside the housings and screws that clamp the hinge on
Thanks but the box is great shape.
Looks like they made it out of a plastic instead of the older fiber glass boxes.
All the clips that hold the two halves together came off very easy with no damage.
 
All the clips that hold the two halves together came off very easy with no damage
I struggled with the first clip, then discovered a thick putty knife on the correct end and they come off and go on like butter. No prying against the housing
 
Chill music playing........RECORD SCRATCH...........

Change plans, you will have to switch channels to follow progress.
20250824_154220.jpg
 
Thank you for that!
But what does it do????
keeps the shaft from coming out the top of the of the column
1756164963429.png



There are 2 snap rings that are on either side of the upper steering shaft bearing.

They and the bearing retainer prevent the steering shaft from coming out of the column

1756165387622.png
 
Why would Chrysler have a snap ring above the bearing and a circlip below the bearing if it was not necessary.
They used that design from 1962 to 1977.
Later on they even used them on front wheel drive Omni and Horizon.
 
I am not saying it's not needed, I was just having a hard time seeing the need.
With that little pin in the coupler I don't see the shaft coming out.
I ordered a couple from DMT and I have a new turn signal switch so I will take it apart and fix it.
 
With that little pin in the coupler I don't see the shaft coming out
The little pin has a lot of movement, before it stops the shaft.

I guess the weight of the engine will keep the engine in place. :lol:

The clips trap the bearing on the shaft, the bearing is traped by the housing and the bearing retainer. No movement.
 
After destroying the roached passenger side upper door frame I got some good advice.
Trying to remove the old window fuzzy strips.
I broke it in quite a few parts.
So on the good ones I used a grinder and cut the steel and removed the strips without breaking anything.
I did smell some plastic once in a while, just moved over and worked in another spot.
Now to paint them and install the new inner fuzzies.
20250913_171239.jpg

20250913_183525.jpg
 
I also got a Dart Lite Broadcast Sheet this week.
From a Feather Duster that had both sheets in it, A Duster and A Dart!
Thanks Doug and Dave!
 
This job was bugging me.
I put the tank in and thought I could work the fill tube in after.
I had to beat the old tank out with a rubber mallet.
That was with the filler tube still in.
However the force was with me today!
I got the tube in with the tank in!
And a fold down seat has a really bent fuel filler tube.
So another job done!
20251006_130443.jpg
20251006_130429.jpg
 
Did you fill the upright of the seat with lead shot backs? That way, when you race you can lay it down for more traction :)
 
Going to Tulsa Raceway with the Colt this weekend and going to pickup some "Lite" parts.
I also got my Legendary front seat cover today.
There is one small defect on the seat back top panel.
I am waiting to hear what they want to do about that.
The seat cover has been on order since July.
20251028_131010.jpg
 
Legendary says, send it back and they will replace the top panel.
My interior guy said don't send it back.
He will dye it and it's under the head rest anyway.
I am going to see if Legendary will give me a discount code for the door cards I need.

Here are the parts I picked up in OK on Saturday.
I traded, with some cash, my trunk lid, hood, front bumper filler and front bumper.
Cool thing was this parts car was FE5, Bright Red!
I have the trunk mounted and I will work on getting the other parts on as it seems fit.
Now that I am at the end of the racing season I will split time on this and the Colt.
The Lite needs and engine build, so starting to get parts together.
I need to send the cam to Oregon and get a better grind.
Dale Riley Parts Dump (1).jpg
AZ Trip (30).jpg
Trunk Lid (4).jpg
 
What nut roll!
AMD bumper bolts, while advertised as A Body bolts, only fit their reproduction bumpers.
The shoulder is too small and just spins around.
Two trips to Summit for both part numbers only to find out they won't work.
I called Vans Auto and they measured theirs and they seem correct.
Will see when they show up.
 
Now that I have a straight bumper and aluminum reinforcement I got back to work on the front mounts.
I have a plan to tuck them in close to the fenders.
I put the drivers side up the frame rail and WOW, what the heck is that?
20251107_150334.jpg

If you notice there is a second 1/2 round cut behind the insert in the frame.
What you see in this picture is how far the insert moved back in the accident.
Looks like the spot welds slid back inside the frame rail.
I was able to put it forward to put the insert in the center of the correct hole.
Here is the passenger side to show what normal is.
20251107_150616.jpg

When the bumper bolts get here I will finish the adjustments and get that job done.
20251107_150440.jpg
 
-
Back
Top Bottom