Dodge Dart Lite

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So it seems I learned how to weld today.
Funny how that works, something about practice I guess.
That and better metal.
Only one tungsten ground today with a few hours of welding.
On the drivers side floor now, one big patch and another small one.
I did pick up on one trick today.
I start my arc on the good metal, build a little puddle and then move over to the crusty metal.
Worked a LOT better, didn't blow holes as the metal was getting hot as I moved over.
Maybe this is something every welder knows, but I didn't.
Here is the drivers floor, I will cover it all with seam sealer tomorrow.
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Floor paper, I have seen worse, but there were a couple of rough places.
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Car is very hard to push.
I removed the drivers side caliper, stuck!
PO used up this old car.
Imagine if he had been driving it these last 15 years!
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How do you break a caliper clip?
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I was under the Lite today taking the shifter out and finishing all the engine bolts out.
It dawned on me as I was working.
The PO used this car up!
The flywheel teeth are chewed up bad.
The front brakes are shot.
The rear brakes were shot.
The rear end was shot.
No thermostat, trunk full of water bottles.
No radiator when I got the car.
Front fender, hood, bumper, bent and crumpled.
The interior looked like a bomb went off, headrests gone with the hardware.
Dash cut for an aftermarket radio.
Speedo cable disconnected? Wonder why?
Cardboard headliner cracked in a number of places.
No panel on the car without a dent or dents.
Drivers side window so scratched, you could not see out of it.

Everything I touch is bad.
I am sure I have forgotten something.
 
I was under the Lite today taking the shifter out and finishing all the engine bolts out.
It dawned on me as I was working.
The PO used this car up!
The flywheel teeth are chewed up bad.
The front brakes are shot.
The rear brakes were shot.
The rear end was shot.
No thermostat, trunk full of water bottles.
No radiator when I got the car.
Front fender, hood, bumper, bent and crumpled.
The interior looked like a bomb went off, headrests gone with the hardware.
Dash cut for an aftermarket radio.
Speedo cable disconnected? Wonder why?
Cardboard headliner cracked in a number of places.
No panel on the car without a dent or dents.
Drivers side window so scratched, you could not see out of it.

Everything I touch is bad.
I am sure I have forgotten something.
No glass fuses rebuilt with aluminum foil?
 
Any good suggestions on fixing the dash abortion?

This is after bending all the metal back out after he bent it into the backside of the dash.

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Any good suggestions on fixing the dash abortion?

This is after bending all the metal back out after he bent it into the backside of the dash.
IMHO...

make a backer plate to go behind the dash to support the holes for the posts. Tack it in in a few places, I assume there is a bezel that covers the butchers work?

if you need some measurements I can get them off my dash
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No panel to cover it.
The cut metal on the ash tray is going to be pretty difficult.
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Stan ,I have a dash frame from a Duster ,I can cut you out what you need maybe.
I can send you the whole dash if they are the same.
 

Not worrying about hurting the glass, it looks bad.
But the object, and I have to keep reminding myself, is to get it running and driving.
So far the only thing put back together is the rear, rear brakes and gas tank.

I might just do a Derek Bieri and say "I am going to pretend I didn't see that"
 
Not worrying about hurting the glass, it looks bad.
But the object, and I have to keep reminding myself, is to get it running and driving.
So far the only thing put back together is the rear, rear brakes and gas tank.

I might just do a Derek Bieri and say "I am going to pretend I didn't see that"
or black duct tape over the bit that'll show once you've hung a radio in the hole, then the radio will cover the rest. done :thumbsup:
 
I just designed this. It's the same size as a post radio bezel. It could be modified to fit lower to cover the top of the ashtray curve

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Found it!
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Progressive 350 2 barrel Holley. 2305 350.
New never run.
Dave M in Washington traded with me.
He needed a 500 progressive carb and I found him 2 for a good price.
So we traded after all the carbs got shipped.
Now to machine my intake and get the spacer flange welded in place.
I also got a regular 500 2 barrel with race bowl for my 350 and an extra metering plate.
 
Last edited:
Found it!
View attachment 1716490309

Progressive 350 2 barrel Holley. 2305 350.
New never run.
Dave M in Washington traded with me.
He needed a 500 progressive carb and I found him 2 for a good price.
So we traded after all the carbs got shipped.
Now to machine my intake and get the spacer flange welded in place.
I also got a regular 500 2 barrel with race bowl for my 350 and an extra metering plate.

Found it!
View attachment 1716490309

Progressive 350 2 barrel Holley. 2305 350.
New never run.
Dave M in Washington traded with me.
He needed a 500 progressive carb and I found him 2 for a good price.
So we traded after all the carbs got shipped.
Now to machine my intake and get the spacer flange welded in place.
I also got a regular 500 2 barrel with race bowl for my 350 and an extra metering plate.
I did a similar thing back in the mid 1980s, for a 4 bbl carb; ran it in my 1961 Valiant. I did not have a way to weld the aluminum adapter, so I drilled and tapped holes into the manifold and used a gasket to seal the adapter to the manifold surface. I was running a 500 CFM carb which was a little too much even though the engine was bored .040 over and using larger valves. I later switched to dual 2 bbl set up and ran a pair of 318 V8 carbs that are around 165 CFM each (give or take, I don't remember exactly)
 
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