does anyone make high compression pistons for a 170

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OK, it looked like a pretty decent sized intercooler so 500 HP makes sense. That is an excellent addition (based on running one engine with and without). What is the turbo? And max boost? Or do you have a link to general info on this setup? I've just run/raced 1 turbo setup (2.6L Mitsubishi) so am just a student (who perhaps has passed the first semester of "good ole Turbo U."); am still gathering knowledge.
 
OK, it looked like a pretty decent sized intercooler so 500 HP makes sense. That is an excellent addition (based on running one engine with and without). What is the turbo? And max boost? Or do you have a link to general info on this setup? I've just run/raced 1 turbo setup (2.6L Mitsubishi) so am just a student (who perhaps has passed the first semester of "good ole Turbo U."); am still gathering knowledge.

I am a newbie, too. This is my first slant six and my first ever turbo, so I know practically nothing, not having raced the car, yet.

The turbo is a 65mm Turbonetics and is a twin to another, identical turbo on my friend's '87 Buick GN. His car runs in the tens and the engine size s almost identical, so it should work.

I built this setup as a clone of the engines in Tom Wolfe's car and Ryan Peterson's; both are over 500hp. That doesn't mean MINE will make that kind of power, but the parts are all the same.

They both run 25+ pounds of boost; I am starting out with only ten... to give me a chance to get the chasssis sorted out. Then, I will up the boost, if I haven't blown it up by then...:oops:

I also have a Snowperformance chemical intercooler, which I think will help keep things together.:prayer::prayer::prayer:

Detonation is the enemy... and I am aware of that, and do everything in my power to avoid it...

Pray for me... LOL!
 
Do you have a link to general info on this setup?.

No, but here is the crux...Block was bored .065" and fitted with Wiseco forged pistons, .167" down in the hole, which gives 9:1 CR with* a stock, un-milled head and an*un-modified combustion chamber.* Steel head gasket, .022"-thick...* ARP 220,000psi (special-order, head studs, K-1, 198*rods that use ARP rod bolts, forged crank turned .010"/.010" and balanced.
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Head is ported (n0t milled) CR is 9:1, measured; is fitted with oversize valves (1.75"/1.5") and utilizes a homemade header, and an AussieSpeed long-runner intake manifold with a Holley 650cfm double-pumper carb that has a boost-referenced power valve and other blow-thru modifications.
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Cam is a Bulllet (brand) flat tappet, solid-lifter regrind with .484" gross lift with stock, 1.5:1 rocker arms; 210/210-degrees of duration @ .050"-lift and has 115-degree lobe separation.* The valve springs are new, 340 springs to which a small (weak) inner spring has been added.* They supply 132-pounds on the seat and 310 open.* Rocker arms and pushrods are stock (1.5 arms.)
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The oil pump is stock, but a Moroso "Accusump" will be used in service (ads 3 quarts to the system.)*
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Red line 5,500 rpm
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Ignition is by means of a stock, electronic "Lean-Burn" Mopar distributor with no vacuum canister, and no centrifugal advance mechanism of any kind (the distributor provides NO advance of any kind.)* Timing is set at 18 crankshaft*degrees* and stays there.* No "curve." Don’t expect ANY reasonable gas mileage out of this setup; it’s strictly for racing.
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An MSD 6-AL II module is used with an MSD Blaster II coil.
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As I said: this is a race car; that "tune" on the distributor*might not work well on the street.
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Oil pan was deepened 2.5" (sump only) and baffles added to preclude starvation under hard deceleration.* It has a modified pickup for accommodating the deeper pan.
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A SnowPerformance Stage I Boost Cooler alcohol/water injector was added to battle the tendency to detonate under boost.* The thing starts spraying at 8 pounds of boost; #1 nozzle (.100"). A Spearco, front-mounted*intercooler is used to help cool the charge.
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The turbo is a 65mm Turbonetics (T-4, I THINK; not sure.)
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An appropriate size external waste gate was fitted to the header.
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The transmission is a “built” 1973 Slant 6 904 with a 2.74 first gear and a reverse-pattern, full-manual, Turbo-Action valve body.
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The converter is a 3,500rpm-stall, Hughes
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7290 U-Joints are attached to large-size yokes on both ends of the 3"-diameter driveshaft, while the axles are Yukon high-strength units with Green bearings.
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CalTrac traction bars, 50-50 shocks and weld-in sub-frame connectors are used with 90-10 front shocks and aftermarket disk brakes in front.
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A six-point roll bar was welded in and a driveshaft loop added.
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The fuel system consists of a* Summit 8-gallon fuel cell, two inline filters (one before and one after the Walbro GSL392 electric pump,) and an Aeromotive boost-referenced fuel-pressure regulator, set at 6psi.
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The car weighs 2,680 pounds without a driver.* It has a fiberglass hood, battery in the trunk, no front bumper, no rear seat and light-weight front buckets.** A Turbo-Action "Cheetah" floor shifter is used.
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It has an electrically-driven fan and water pump.
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Slicks are the biggest I could get to fit (9"-wide, 26"-tall on 8"-wide rims.)* They are Hoosiers.
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Coil-spring accessory "helper springs" raise the rear for (needed) added tire clearance.
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If my engine can produce within 100 horsepower of what Tom's and Ryan's do, I'll be very happy.* This is my first attempt at a slant six and a first-ever turbo motor, so I am just learning.
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My car is just getting finished and ready for some shakedown runs.* Wish me luck; I’m gonna need it!!!*
 

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Yeah, well I run a 2.6L Mitsubishi Starion rally car that puts out around 275 HP with 15 lbs of boost on a true CR of 8.2:1, with forged flat tops, near zero deck and of course the AL hemi head chamber; all on premium pump gas. So it is reasonably detonation proofed but will start to detonate at over 18 lbs boost.....and with the fuel cut-off detonation control of the Mitsu ECU, any detonation event is amazingly violent!

So, I would think you will be OK at 10lbs boost, but with the 9:1 CR, and the head and chambers, I would expect that even getting to 15 lbs boost will be tricky....and 25 lbs must take some real genius....geez. I do know that a lot of the high end rally guys use mixed fuel. But that is all E.F.I. , not carbed, so dunno if that can work with a carb.

Well, good luck; all I can say is to go up 1 lb at a time. I crept up on mine to find that 15 lbs was a happy point for trouble-free boost on long rallies and variable weather conditions. A lot of guys forget that going from hot and humid to cool and dry air represents about a 3-4 point drop in octane so watch out on those cool, clear fall days!

BTW, do you have an A/F meter? I can only imagine that would be a great tool (assuming it works OK with the water/alcohol involved). If not, then at least a knock detector and indicator.
 
BTW, do you have an A/F meter? I can only imagine that would be a great tool (assuming it works OK with the water/alcohol involved). If not, then at least a knock detector and indicator.

That A/F meter is the single, most important piece of equipment I own; I cannot IMAGINE doing this without one! Mine is a "F.A.S.T."-brand, data-logging, wide-band, hand held unit. It reads out digital numbers, usually immediately. Without it, I don't know what I would do...


I ruined two of its O2 sensors (consecutively,) with aviation gas ($91.00 apiece) before I realized that lead in the fuel is a death sentence for these sensors. %^#$%^&&**!!!

I should have investigated more thoroughly before I started using this one...
 

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