Does Scarebird have a customer service dept?

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kittypancake

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Has anyone purchased the VAL Wheel Kit from Scarebird? The description on their site is not that informative. Is this everything needed to do the swap?I've tried emailing to no avail. Makes me wonder if I should go a different route...
 
Has anyone purchased the VAL Wheel Kit from Scarebird? The description on their site is not that informative. Is this everything needed to do the swap?I've tried emailing to no avail. Makes me wonder if I should go a different route...


From what I have read I am under the impression that you still need to buy rotors and calipers.
 
They responded to my email, but that was several months ago (I haven't purchased yet). They included a word document, but I can't figure out how to link it….so I just cut and past it. Not your exact year, but I bet it is very similar to the product they sell for your year.

Mopar “A” body 1965-72 10”, 1960-72 9” Front Disc brake conversion instructions
1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support outer control arms with jackstands. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. Put a few drops of penetrant oil on brakeline nuts where they screw into rubber lines.
2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove studs. DO NOT HAMMER THEM OUT! Best ways to do this is with a swedge cutter and hydraulic press. Another way is to center punch the head from the inside, then pilot drill about ½” deep, then carefully drill off head with 5/8” diameter bit. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or beadblaster. Replace studs with ¼” longer or more studs, such as NAPA #641-1563 (Dorman 610-156) (10”) or #641-1560 (9”)
3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then removing clip. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well.
4. Place adapter plate over spindle with couterbores facing outward and caliper openings forward of the axle. Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate. Note placement of the bolts for the Ten’s: rearward bolt uses a supplied jam nut, while the forward bolt is reversed. A drop of Locktite is recommended on the jam nut.
5. Check rotor: should be 10” in diameter and 2” tall. Drill out wheel stud holes with pattern supplied. Cut out pattern with scissors, then spray with light oil or WD-40 and center on rotor. Lightly prick punch, then carefully remove pattern and punch harder. Drill out holes ½” diameter. Verify that rotor lays flat against hub by fitting rotor backwards onto hub. If the stud knurls interfere with rotor, countersink stud holes in rotor to clear knurls.
6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap. Install center ring on hub.
7. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean.
8. Test fit caliper onto bracket. Note where casting lug interferes with spindle – remove this lug with hacksaw, cutoff wheel or grinder. If using the last two methods, make sure you do not heat up caliper too much and melt the seals. If fitting into stock drum rims, you will need to carefully grind and round off the outer edge of the calipers also. Lubricate caliper contact point of brackets. Slide assembly into caliper bracket. Make sure bleed screw faces upward- if not, reverse sides. We recommend buying semi-loaded calipers, and softest pads, like NAPA TruStop. Tighten caliper bolts to 35 foot-pounds. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance. Install hose with new copper crush washers, one on each side of the hose.
9. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1973-75 Power Dart or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and manual flavors. Plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve in the line going to the rear cylinders, or use a disc proportioning valve
10. Bench bleed disc master cylinder. Mount MC on car. We highly recommend using the Griot’s (#35714) or Harbor Freight (#92924) pneumatic vacuum bleeder. Gravity bleeding works well too
11. Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard stops, a series of 30 smooth stops from 30mph with 30 seconds cooling time each stop will bed in the pads properly.

Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos
Rotor 1991-94 Toyota Previa front rotor w/ rear drum option
48-86174 BD125058 96174
Caliper, LH 1990 Chevy Celebrity 242-2066 L107084 RC4234
Caliper, RH 1990 Chevy Celebrity 242-2067 L107085 RC4233
Brake Hose 1979-82 Eldorado front 36959/36960 F98914/98914 BH36959/3696
Brake pads 1990 Chevy Celebrity AE7136M MX215

*Verify fit and length before buying Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC 2 September 2012 Version D

Please do not hesitate to email us for latest specifications or technical inquiries. Contact: [email protected] Thank you.
 
Thanks this helps. They have the brackets for $105, drilled rotors for $135, and something named Wheel Kit for $475. I would go with the wheel kit for ease of one stop shopping IF it's all inclusive...
 
Thanks this helps. They have the brackets for $105, drilled rotors for $135, and something named Wheel Kit for $475. I would go with the wheel kit for ease of one stop shopping IF it's all inclusive...

If you buy the calipers local you should be able to buy them with a lifetime warranty. I show them for $20.99 each including core.
 
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