Dougs or TTI Headers?

Dougs or TTIs?

  • Dougs Headers

    Votes: 34 39.5%

  • TTI Headers

    Votes: 52 60.5%
  • Total voters
    86
  • Poll closed .
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For an early (pre-67) A-Body, I think we all acknowledge that a fenderwell header is the only solution when absolute horsepower is concerned.

I was hoping this thread would compare and contrast the various fitment issues regarding bellhousings, transmissions, starters, linkages and the like. Pictures would have been cool. Aside from the points of friction outlined in Dave's 66 build thread there really is precious little regarding the TTI's and absolutely nothing about the Dougs.

I'll cast my vote once I make the decision what headers I chose to install on my early A, and I evaluate the fitment. This may be months from now.

Anybody running Dougs with a 904 please post your results. Pictures of starter and steering clearance would be nice as well.
 
With a 904 you should be golden Chief. I just got my Doug's installed on the 66 Hardtop today. It has the 10.5" later a-body style bellhousing and larger clutch. It takes a few extra pieces from Brewer's Performance to covert the car to the larger bellhousing but everything works. I know some other people had issues with the larger manual clutch. But Brewer's is the solution.

Keep your eyes peeled for a future write up on the Doug's install when I get everything totally finished. Putting a new master cylinder and rerouting brake lines to clean thing up a bit. Lots of pictures to come.

I have to say Doug's are hands down easier to install than the tti's. Fitment is about the same. Tti's are a little tighter since they have a larger secondaries. Also, makes a difference if you are running larger torsion bars. Both trap the starter and I would recommend wrapping it with a thermal barrier.

Dave
 
daves66valiant said:
With a 904 you should be golden Chief. I just got my Doug's installed on the 66 Hardtop today. It has the 10.5" later a-body style bellhousing and larger clutch. It takes a few extra pieces from Brewer's Performance to covert the car to the larger bellhousing but everything works. I know some other people had issues with the larger manual clutch. But Brewer's is the solution.

Keep your eyes peeled for a future write up on the Doug's install when I get everything totally finished. Putting a new master cylinder and rerouting brake lines to clean thing up a bit. Lots of pictures to come.

I have to say Doug's are hands down easier to install than the tti's. Fitment is about the same. Tti's are a little tighter since they have a larger secondaries. Also, makes a difference if you are running larger torsion bars. Both trap the starter and I would recommend wrapping it with a thermal barrier.

Dave
Click to expand...

So Dave, did you get a chance to look over those torque arms you got last weekend? How did you end up on the bell housing pivot?
 
dart4forte said:
So Dave, did you get a chance to look over those torque arms you got last weekend? How did you end up on the bell housing pivot?
Click to expand...

I tried one of the original torque arms and the geometry was a little off for the fork adjusting rod. The Brewer's torque arm worked perfect. The Bell Housing Pivot bracket and ball stud lined up perfect on my bellhousing. The headers are all tighten up and everything is working good. I just need to hook up new exhaust pipes and run new brake lines to the new aluminum master cylinder I ordered. Should be good after that.

I can send those arms back to ya. PM me and let me know. You were a big help. Thanks again.
 
daves66valiant said:
I tried one of the original torque arms and the geometry was a little off for the fork adjusting rod. The Brewer's torque arm worked perfect. The Bell Housing Pivot bracket and ball stud lined up perfect on my bellhousing. The headers are all tighten up and everything is working good. I just need to hook up new exhaust pipes and run new brake lines to the new aluminum master cylinder I ordered. Should be good after that.

I can send those arms back to ya. PM me and let me know. You were a big help. Thanks again.
Click to expand...

If you can't use them you can send them to

John Rimel
1212 S 41st Ave
Yakima, WA 98908
 
daves66valiant said:
With a 904 you should be golden Chief. I just got my Doug's installed on the 66 Hardtop today. It has the 10.5" later a-body style bellhousing and larger clutch. It takes a few extra pieces from Brewer's Performance to covert the car to the larger bellhousing but everything works. I know some other people had issues with the larger manual clutch. But Brewer's is the solution.

Keep your eyes peeled for a future write up on the Doug's install when I get everything totally finished. Putting a new master cylinder and rerouting brake lines to clean thing up a bit. Lots of pictures to come.

Dave
Click to expand...

Can't tell you how good it is to hear this. I'll be watching & waiting for the info!
 
Not to hi-jack this thread, but hopefully I'll be done with my TTI oddessy on my `68 Barracuda this weekend. I'll have a full photo essay on the entire miserable, frustrating, gut wrenching experience.....

But they do look & fit great. Once they're in....
SANY0028-vi.jpg
 
Hi All,
I have no experience with Doug's Headers in an early A-body...but I have installed TTI's in my '65 Dart/360/Keisler 5 spd.
There are many issues (read problems) to be overcome with this installation. One recent problem I have encountered is with the powermaster "infi-index" starter.
While doing some routine maintainence on the car, I noticed that the starter was VERY loose. Closer examination revealed that the two allen head screws holding the steel index cone within the starter flange had loosened.
Once the steel index cone begins to move in the mating aluminum starter flange, a burr is formed on the internal circumference of the starter flange. This will prevent a simple retightening of the index cone. The burr must be scraped away before the index cone is reinstalled.
After installing the steel cone, torque the two allen head screws evenly with the appropriate metric allen wrench (torque specs appropriate to fasterer size). Then, use a small torch to heat up the aluminum flange to approximately 225 degrees. The aluminum flange will expand (as it will under normal engine operating temperatures) and you will discover that the allen head screws must be retorqued. Retorque them, let the flange cool, and reinstall the starter. Hopefully, they won't come loose again.
One of the scariest problems with this starter is the difficulty in installing the upper starter flange nut, which is an 11/16 short height nut threaded onto a 3/8 allen head set screw (acting as a bellhousing stud). With headers installed on the car, it is very difficult to properly tighten this nut with an ordinary wrench.
I am making my own special short height 12 point nuts to solve this problem. They will require the use of a 3/4 inch 12 point box wrench which has been ground thin enough to allow it to slip over the nut. The object is to be able to remove/service/replace the starter with some degree of efficiency.

So how many times have YOU bought aftermarket parts that really worked as advertised? Take care...
KenAbody
 
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