dual quad nitrous !!?!!

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j par said:
So do you really think starting out with a 50 shot, a sets of 25 Jets in each carburetor is going to blow this motor up?
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Just remember, I have Never used it.
And have no intention of using it any time in the future.
So my opinion, has vary little to back it up, other then (I have this Guy/Buddy):D
 
Cudafever said:
Just remember, I have Never used it.
And have no intention of using it any time in the future.
So my opinion, has vary little to back it up, other then (I have this Guy/Buddy):D
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I've been just kind of curious about it for quite some time because I've never used it either. If I was ever able to get a system together I couldn't imagine myself being able to afford using it all the time. It would just be something to learn about just like everything else I've done on my car. My car is my hobby so I don't like things to stay exactly the same...
 
When you melt a piston!:eek: it won't be exactly the same anymore.:poke:
All serious there is a learning curve, and with a small shot you should get the education needed without a Ca Booom.

Are you going to just run the carb's rich and a nos button or are you going to have two jets? fuel and nos.
 
Cudafever said:
When you melt a piston!:eek: it won't be exactly the same anymore.:poke:
All serious there is a learning curve, and with a small shot you should get the education needed without a Ca Booom.

Are you going to just run the carb's rich and a nos button or are you going to have two jets? fuel and nos.
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Absolutely run a wet system..
And I do have forged pistons..
 
Remember it's just like your snow machine. It just keep getting faster as you lean it out...........until the piston stick in the bore!:eek:
Disregard if your a 4 stroke sledder...............
 
79410aspenrt said:
if i remember correctly, it was a 75 hp shot. went from 11.7 @ 117 mph to 10.76 @ 128 mph.
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Holly smokes!! Nice Improvement...
Was there a big learning curve as they call it? Or did you just heed all the warnings and kind of do it right the first time? And how was it set up? Did you have a separate fuel supply or split fuel supply that you had for the engine?..
 
i had a mallory comp 250 fuel pump. -8 line from pump to firewall. from the firewall i split the fuel supply.
timing was at 32* (locked dist)
i used a micro switch on the front carb to activate solenoid at full throttle.
i can't remember the jets i used. i was a bit fat on fuel side just to be cautious
 
SSG_Karg said:
Very nice piece. If you ever have a moment of temporary insanity and decide to sell it, keep me in mind.
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LOL. I had one. Should have never sold it. They are hard to find. I've seen them sell for as high as 850 bucks, but that was NOS in the original box.
 
I think he should keep it or sell it to someone else. lol :D
just for all the crap you give him. lol
 
I run a locked distributor with 34 degrees of timing, as that's what my engine wants when it's running NA. I also have an MSD 8982 Start/Retard control and an MSD 8969 RPM Activated Window switch. In addition to those, I have a 3 position activation switch wired in.

The start/retard box uses "pills" to adjust the amount of retard that gets pulled when the retard is activated. You can get pills in one degree increments from 0-20 degrees, the pills I use the most are in the 0-10 degree range.

The window switch is used to set the rpm range in which the nitrous system can be activated. Nitrous generally delivers a constant flow fixed amount of horsepower, but remember horsepower is a function of torque x rpm/5252. That basically means that the lower the rpm, the more torque the nitrous will add. If you install a 100hp nitrous system, you will get a 100ftlb boost @ 5252rpm. At 7000rpm that added torque drops to 75ftlbs, but on the other end of the spectrum down at 1000rpm that 100hp shot will deliver an additional 525ftlbs!!! Since an additional 525ftlbs at 1000rpm may put cylinder pressures waay into the danger zone, it's generally accepted to limit nitrous use to 3000rpm and above. My window switch is currently set to 3000-8300, the 8300 high side shuts the nitrous off during the shift.

The 3-position switch's lower position is the "OFF" position that I use for casual driving or making NA passes. The "middle" position activates the retard only (no nitrous, but full time retard). The upper "ON" position arms the nitrous system and window switch (window switch then controls the retard box). That middle position is useful for calming down the annoying faceplate "bucking" when idling around town, but it's also useful for testing back/back timing settings without moving the distributor. For instance data shows my current engine likes 36 degrees NA in 1st gear, but 2nd/3rd gears NA prefer 34 degrees.

My learning curve included a glitch on one pass that caused timing to be pulled on the hit, but with the window switch working almost opposite of what was intended. Basically the launch was NA with 8 degrees of timing pulled, which caused a huge engine bog. But then when the bog reached 1700rpm, the nitrous then came ON! By the time the nitrous reached the cylinders, rpm was all the way down to 597. Theoretically the 175 shot at the time was delivering around 1540ftlbs at 597rpm. The car basically stood on it's bumper, but at the cost of total devastation as it took out two pistons and cylinder walls that put shrapnel in every other combustion chamber in the engine. Never made it to 2nd gear, ended up throwing away a set of 300cfm Brodix heads along with most of the rest of the engine.

Grant
 
I should add that I also have a nitrous hit delay after launch, which basically holds off the nitrous hit until the clutch is almost locked up. If you look at data graphs very long you will notice that the car accelerates at a faster rate while the clutch is pulling the engine down, it's basically a boost that you get while the rotating assy is losing some of it's stored energy. I delay my nitrous a bit so that it comes in on the heels of that inertia boost, which in-turn makes overall power delivery much smoother for my radials and the no-prep surfaces that I like to run on.

Grant
 
You need to print that out and put it in a folder j par.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I knew a nitrous motor work better out of the hole then any where's but that give me a hole new vision:eek::)
 
fishmens67 said:
I think he should keep it or sell it to someone else. lol :D
just for all the crap you give him. lol
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I'm the driving force that keeps him on his toes! I should get half price discounts and all the good stuff! Yellow rose you're welcome....:thumbsup:...
 
weedburner said:
I run a locked distributor with 34 degrees of timing, as that's what my engine wants when it's running NA. I also have an MSD 8982 Start/Retard control and an MSD 8969 RPM Activated Window switch. In addition to those, I have a 3 position activation switch wired in.

The start/retard box uses "pills" to adjust the amount of retard that gets pulled when the retard is activated. You can get pills in one degree increments from 0-20 degrees, the pills I use the most are in the 0-10 degree range.

The window switch is used to set the rpm range in which the nitrous system can be activated. Nitrous generally delivers a constant flow fixed amount of horsepower, but remember horsepower is a function of torque x rpm/5252. That basically means that the lower the rpm, the more torque the nitrous will add. If you install a 100hp nitrous system, you will get a 100ftlb boost @ 5252rpm. At 7000rpm that added torque drops to 75ftlbs, but on the other end of the spectrum down at 1000rpm that 100hp shot will deliver an additional 525ftlbs!!! Since an additional 525ftlbs at 1000rpm may put cylinder pressures waay into the danger zone, it's generally accepted to limit nitrous use to 3000rpm and above. My window switch is currently set to 3000-8300, the 8300 high side shuts the nitrous off during the shift.

The 3-position switch's lower position is the "OFF" position that I use for casual driving or making NA passes. The "middle" position activates the retard only (no nitrous, but full time retard). The upper "ON" position arms the nitrous system and window switch (window switch then controls the retard box). That middle position is useful for calming down the annoying faceplate "bucking" when idling around town, but it's also useful for testing back/back timing settings without moving the distributor. For instance data shows my current engine likes 36 degrees NA in 1st gear, but 2nd/3rd gears NA prefer 34 degrees.

My learning curve included a glitch on one pass that caused timing to be pulled on the hit, but with the window switch working almost opposite of what was intended. Basically the launch was NA with 8 degrees of timing pulled, which caused a huge engine bog. But then when the bog reached 1700rpm, the nitrous then came ON! By the time the nitrous reached the cylinders, rpm was all the way down to 597. Theoretically the 175 shot at the time was delivering around 1540ftlbs at 597rpm. The car basically stood on it's bumper, but at the cost of total devastation as it took out two pistons and cylinder walls that put shrapnel in every other combustion chamber in the engine. Never made it to 2nd gear, ended up throwing away a set of 300cfm Brodix heads along with most of the rest of the engine.

Grant
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I love cool nitrous stories!!..
 
fishmens67 said:
I think he should keep it or sell it to someone else. lol :D
just for all the crap you give him. lol
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Disagree j par ? Well, I'm gonna PM Yellow Rose and buy his stuff and resell it to YOU for triple. lol
Someone has to pay for the kobe steak, might as well be YOU. :thumbsup:
 
fishmens67 said:
Disagree j par ? Well, I'm gonna PM Yellow Rose and buy his stuff and resell it to YOU for triple. lol
Someone has to pay for the kobe steak, might as well be YOU. :thumbsup:
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You must like the old disagree button! LOL I don't know if I'm going to buy anything at the Swap Meet except for a couple pieces of trim for the truck..
 
Seems like I can't find anybody to really pick there brain about this subject specially when running two carburetors..
 
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