Dyno Results....

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85-90 Degrees...fairly humid. It's texas...LOL.
Truthfully, if that is uncorrected, those aren't too far off for the conditions & what You're running. If that is corrected there's some left,...........but take it to the track & get
some real MPH numbers, don't forget to get Yourself weighed in................
 
Your setup might have the same issue as my setup has, (way) too large exhaust for the engine.

I don't understand.
My 318 runs real sweet thru dual 3inchers all the way out to the back. It's a stock 1973 long block, with nothing more than a 4bbl and TTIs. Yeah she's a bit noisy at full song thru the Dynomaxers, but she's definitely the strongest stock teener I've ever seen. Maybe I haven't seen that many tho,lol.
 
the butt dyno works well for most street cars. If the car scares the poo out of your passenger, then you are just few HP away from being a perfect street car.
 
Yeah....basically the same as a stock HP440. I guess I was just hoping for more.

Your engine is pretty much stock with headers, theres lots of variables obviously your making more than a stock 440. Think about future potential 600 plus hp is trick flows and a hydraulic roller cam away. As for now Im pretty sure shes a fun ride.
 
Just noticed the small cam your using get a decent cam in there and you'll see a BIG improvement..and for the track more gear would help too.
Yep. This is the first motor I've ever built....I intentionally kept it conservative to keep it steetable and to ensure things worked together well. Would I do it over the same? Maybe, maybe not....I want more now. LOL
 
Truth, the HP and Tq are on par with parts selected.
Your engine is pretty much stock with headers, theres lots of variables obviously your making more than a stock 440. Think about future potential 600 plus hp is trick flows and a hydraulic roller cam away. As for now Im pretty sure shes a fun ride.
It's a blast!! Even in 2nd gear (TF727) if I roll into the throttle to the floor, it'll break loose 1/2 time while it pulls....Big FUN. I need some DOT slicks
 
Yep. This is the first motor I've ever built....I intentionally kept it conservative to keep it steetable and to ensure things worked together well. Would I do it over the same? Maybe, maybe not....I want more now. LOL

Well there you have it. If your enjoying the car and the engine you built then who cares? Honestly people get too hung on on horsepower number, especially for a street car and most grossly exaggerate/guess wrong at what their engine makes. Now if you make changes go back to the same dyno and see the difference. You cannot compare one to another even in the same brand and model.
 
Truthfully, if that is uncorrected, those aren't too far off for the conditions & what You're running. If that is corrected there's some left,...........but take it to the track & get
some real MPH numbers, don't forget to get Yourself weighed in................
Not sure if it's corrected or now...didn't even know to ask. The car as a whole needs more tuning before I hit the track...but truthfully, I'm super nervous about racing it. Well, mostly about F#$%ing up and looking stupid. LOL
 
@ 25% drive train loss that equates to

372 HP
475 TQ
at the flywheel

Stock early 340's were 275 hp,340 torque and sharply tuned with gears and converter could run 13's.
With that big torque number you'll have a tough time without slicks.
i think they are great numbers for a light A body!
 
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Yep. This is the first motor I've ever built....I intentionally kept it conservative to keep it steetable and to ensure things worked together well. Would I do it over the same? Maybe, maybe not....I want more now. LOL
Well there Jlcaptain, congrats on your first build! When I was doing mine, I had the second guessing jitters. I went to the local speed shop for a little help on cam selection. Best decision I ever made.
And I echo your thought. And so I changed it around the second time, & the 3rd time, & the ....

Note; I love to tinker around.
 
Well there Jlcaptain, congrats on your first build! When I was doing mine, I had the second guessing jitters. I went to the local speed shop for a little help on cam selection. Best decision I ever made.
And I echo your thought. And so I changed it around the second time, & the 3rd time, & the ....

Note; I love to tinker around.
Thanks! I'm certain this dart will be with me for a long time...lots of upgrades. Right now, I'm just enjoying git after years of restoring it.
 
Not to be a bummer but most chassis dynos run between 15% loss (manual transmission) and 18% (automatic transmission). It's probably a matter of quality of the rebuild, and tuning. Regardless, as was said - take it to the track, and get it weighed, and do the math. Truth is easy peasy to get.
 
Could water pump,fuel pump,fan,alternator, air cleaner and full exhaust plus drivetrain losses = 100hp?
 
Could water pump,fuel pump,fan,alternator, air cleaner and full exhaust plus drivetrain losses = 100hp?
I dunno...I'm no expert. I've read that a mechanical fan can pull as much as 20hp...and mine doesn't have a clutch. I've also read a bunch of articles regarding this. The old rule of 15% loss through drivetrain apparently is low. Many real world articles comparing engine dyno to chassis dyno show losses 20-25%....one test even had a small block losing 33% through its drivetrain. Surprisingly, one of the biggest robbers of HP is the differential, which I found surprising. Transmission and torque converter behind that...plus windage, etc....it all adds up I think.
 
An intersting tidbit...my air cleaner was worth 2hp....we took a couple pulls with it off.
 
I dunno...I'm no expert. I've read that a mechanical fan can pull as much as 20hp...and mine doesn't have a clutch. I've also read a bunch of articles regarding this. The old rule of 15% loss through drivetrain apparently is low. Many real world articles comparing engine dyno to chassis dyno show losses 20-25%....one test even had a small block losing 33% through its drivetrain. Surprisingly, one of the biggest robbers of HP is the differential, which I found surprising. Transmission and torque converter behind that...plus windage, etc....it all adds up I think.


You can coast it down and get pretty close to how much power it takes to turn everything. The highest I've ever seen was 22%.

The reason you see big losses from the crank dyno to the wheel dyno is simple. Most engine dyno work is done in a controlled room, with controlled air, temp etc. They often use dyno headers instead chassis headers which will skew results.

Don't believe everything you read. Even this. But I checked your numbers and IMHO, your engine makes what it should.
 
I dunno...I'm no expert. I've read that a mechanical fan can pull as much as 20hp...and mine doesn't have a clutch. I've also read a bunch of articles regarding this. The old rule of 15% loss through drivetrain apparently is low. Many real world articles comparing engine dyno to chassis dyno show losses 20-25%....one test even had a small block losing 33% through its drivetrain. Surprisingly, one of the biggest robbers of HP is the differential, which I found surprising. Transmission and torque converter behind that...plus windage, etc....it all adds up I think.

There was just a posting on engine parasitic loss. It does add up. The P/S isn't much by itself but combined with everything on the engine, it was something like 20-25hp. And that was just on a mopar small bock engine. Other engines from other years with bigger Alt., P/S, etc... parts could consume more power. Even engine oil has a play.
Search IQ52 posts for this mention. I'm not totally sure it was him but .....

I also don't know how much a transmission will eat. Of course various model use more or less. We know the 904 is worth a tenth at the strip. So we now know it uses less than a 727. Exactly how much power I do not know.

The rear diff's didn't use that much power from articles I have read in the past. A transmission uses more. A torque converter doesn't exactly use power but consumes power. How efficient it is a questionable matter.

IMHO, I would NOT worry about this one bit. Your build has similar aspects that are very close to a stock build and tested in less than favorable conditions as well as in a different way.
 
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