yes, Ed did it on moparjoe's channel.Just Mopar Joe recently did a YT on the E streets. Not very good. Seats did not seal, seats too wide, machining grit trapped under the valve seals. Etc.
yes, Ed did it on moparjoe's channel.Just Mopar Joe recently did a YT on the E streets. Not very good. Seats did not seal, seats too wide, machining grit trapped under the valve seals. Etc.
I named Ed because he did the inspecting and findings, and owns the machine shop. Justmoparjoe is upright A-1 and drinks his coffee from a 318WR mugThat’s what I think he is talking about.
Why he didn’t name MoParJoe, IDK
Why E-streets rod the smaller CID?
yes, that's the same link i posted in the first post. These have really got my attention. I have the intake and aluminum water pump housing already.
Yes…Exactly. Unless you run a positive deck piston on a 383 all the 80+ cc chambers don’t help much. Closed 78 cc chambers on the stock (closed) iron heads are about as good as you get (516) heads. Then you port and add bigger valves. So the e streets look good at a glance but the angled spark plugs don’t help my personal situation. Thanks 318 WR for posting this question. Swingn’You can get E street heads with the 75cc combustion chamber, a stock stroke 383 needs the smaller chamber to get compression up.
Of those three choices for unported 84cc pieces, the Ede heads flow the most.
The 75cc chamber version has some valve shrouding that knocks down the low/mid-lift flow.
Thanks for the reply! What about the 4th option, the 452's that are on the engine? Home-porting and a good valve job (including a good valves)?Of those three choices for unported 84cc pieces, the Ede heads flow the most.
The 75cc chamber version has some valve shrouding that knocks down the low/mid-lift flow.
I’ll take the Ede hardware (valves/springs/retainers/locks) any day over the Chinese heads.
I also like the seat material better.
The Promaxx castings have a kind of funky intake port shape at the opening(same as the SM, Sidewinder, Toth, Performance World, and a few others).
View attachment 1715848306
...I also like the seat material better....
Ok, I just read through the thread in the link. Seems Ramm re-worked the valve job, port, and shrouding ??? I'm not paying 1450 bucks for a set of head, then having to pay a machine shop to do an adequate valve job, and such. If I'm paying 85% of a set of TF's, then I'll buy the TF's. If I buy any head, they will have to work OOTB. I can do some things at home with my dremel, but not a "new 5 angle valve job".yeah, so there is this possibility if the small chamber is needed and the budget is there...
512 B build almost complete
Have you had a set of Promaxx through your shop ? I have not seen them in person, but those that have seem impressed.They will be down a bunch of cfm to the Ede heads.
Very nicely ported big valve 452’s are barely equal to ootb E streets.
I have yet to see any “home ported” factory std port BBM head flow that much.
This is like what you need to equal an ootb Ede head:
View attachment 1715848313
View attachment 1715848314
If someone thinks they can spend a few hours grinding on factory heads and end up with heads that are “just as good”, is someone lying to themselves.
Have you had a set of Promaxx through your shop ? I have not seen them in person, but those that have seem impressed.
HP range listed in my 1st post is all I'm shooting for..... at least 450, 500 would be super nice. I figure a factory 440 magnum had 375, just a set of headers and re-jet and you had 400 hp. I would think more cam and better head should be worth at least 50 - minimal target met. TF's easily over the heads I listed, but again, I'm not doing 2300 bucks for just heads on this build. People made 500+ hp for years without TF's on 440's.If “you’re trying to make power”, the TF heads are by far the best bang for the buck.
Ok, I just read through the thread in the link. Seems Ramm re-worked the valve job, port, and shrouding ??? I'm not paying 1450 bucks for a set of head, then having to pay a machine shop to do an adequate valve job, and such. If I'm paying 85% of a set of TF's, then I'll buy the TF's. If I buy any head, they will have to work OOTB. I can do some things at home with my dremel, but not a "new 5 angle valve job".
as of today, I believe the E-streets are 1450 through Jegs/Summit. Maybe through autozone on discount or price match a set could be bought around 1200.i don't think the ootb edelbrock valve job would be IN-adequate...just if someone were to prep a head really nice then there is the possibility of truing up the valve job and deshrouding.
also, the E-street heads were very recently only ~$1200.
so i guess one advantage with the edelbrock stuff is, look at autozone's website and see the 20% off code. I do see the 5090 head listed there. so order from autozone, or call jeg's and price match.
HP range listed in my 1st post is all I'm shooting for..... at least 450.
I guess "cheapest route" would be a way of saying it. I'm thinking "no unneccessary cost". I'm willing to spend, but I don't need to buy a Ram 3500 Diesel dually to pull a 2-place snowmobile trailer, if that makes sense. That is why I was looking at lower end aluminum heads. Weight saving plus if I can run them with just a home inspection, then great. If I can buy new valves, even have a 3-angle valve job, a little home porting/casting clean up and springs for the 452's and easily get there, then maybe that's my best route. By the way, sounds like a stout 383 with unported heads!!I get the feeling you want to be told whatever the cheapest route is, is the answer you want.
In that train of thought.......On a well thought out combo, essentially any factory head with a little rework can make over 450hp.
My 383 made 485hp with unported 906’s that flowed 235cfm.