Early A V8 swap advice

[stretch]

This winter I plan to start on my 1965 valiant 100 project. I plan to swap out the three on the tree for 4 on the floor and to bolt that to my '68 340. I have a few questions about parts required and was hoping to draw on the experiences of those of you who have done it.
I'll start with my list of questions and if any of you know of anything I missed or have any advice about what parts to use or avoid, I'd love to hear it.

1) How much fire wall/toe board modification is required to use a 10 1/2" clutch bell housing? I have a bell for a '73 340.

2) I know the K frame is the same on these cars for /6 and V8 but exactly what engine mounts do I need? Both on the block and the K frame.

3) Although I love the look of fender well headers, I want under chassis headers. (I'm looking to be able to carve corners). Are TTI and Dougs my only options here? If so, what are the pros and cons of each? Do any of you have under car pictures of your exhaust systems with these headers? I can custom bend pipes at work, I'd just like an idea of whats going to need to happen down there. I will be modifying a spool type trans mount for dual exhaust clearance.

4) Do I need a specific V8 throttle pedal? Is there a throttle pedal that will match the interior but convert to a cable so I can eliminate the solid linkage or can the existing pedal be modified for a cable?

5) I will be relocating the rear spring front mounts. Any idea on width and offset of the rear tires with this modification? I have an A-Body 8 3/4 that will remain stock width and will stay small bolt drum. I am converting the 9" front drums to Kelsey Hayes disk. I have everything except the front hubs. Anyone have a pair of front hubs they would be willing to sell?

6) Should I go with a factory disk proportioning valve or an adjustable aftermarket? (I'm leaning towards aftermarket for tunability).

7) Seat covers and headliner. Are they available for these cars?

8) I have the drop v8 center link, V8 torsion bars, & a sway bar kit for the front. Is there anything else you know of that I might need chassis wise for this swap?

9) Have any of you assembled the K frame with the under chassis headers and set the car down on the frame like in the factory? I'm thinking that might be the way to go considering the tight quarters.

Like I said, If you have any advice or know of any additional parts I will need please feel free to let me know.

Also, If any of you need my 3 speed, the column linkage, or the drive shaft, let me know. I also have a new in the box never opened carpet set from ACC that came with the car that I will not be using. I believe its black.

 

[stretch]

This is why I'm waiting for winter to start on the Valiant. I need to finish building the wood body structure so I can get it off of the frame stands.

 

[Brad4406]

This winter I plan to start on my 1965 valiant 100 project. I plan to swap out the three on the tree for 4 on the floor and to bolt that to my '68 340. I have a few questions about parts required and was hoping to draw on the experiences of those of you who have done it.
I'll start with my list of questions and if any of you know of anything I missed or have any advice about what parts to use or avoid, I'd love to hear it.

1) How much fire wall/toe board modification is required to use a 10 1/2" clutch bell housing? I have a bell for a '73 340.

2) I know the K frame is the same on these cars for /6 and V8 but exactly what engine mounts do I need? Both on the block and the K frame.

3) Although I love the look of fender well headers, I want under chassis headers. (I'm looking to be able to carve corners). Are TTI and Dougs my only options here? If so, what are the pros and cons of each? Do any of you have under car pictures of your exhaust systems with these headers? I can custom bend pipes at work, I'd just like an idea of whats going to need to happen down there. I will be modifying a spool type trans mount for dual exhaust clearance.

4) Do I need a specific V8 throttle pedal? Is there a throttle pedal that will match the interior but convert to a cable so I can eliminate the solid linkage or can the existing pedal be modified for a cable?

5) I will be relocating the rear spring front mounts. Any idea on width and offset of the rear tires with this modification? I have an A-Body 8 3/4 that will remain stock width and will stay small bolt drum. I am converting the 9" front drums to Kelsey Hayes disk. I have everything except the front hubs. Anyone have a pair of front hubs they would be willing to sell?

6) Should I go with a factory disk proportioning valve or an adjustable aftermarket? (I'm leaning towards aftermarket for tunability).

7) Seat covers and headliner. Are they available for these cars?

8) I have the drop v8 center link, V8 torsion bars, & a sway bar kit for the front. Is there anything else you know of that I might need chassis wise for this swap?

9) Have any of you assembled the K frame with the under chassis headers and set the car down on the frame like in the factory? I'm thinking that might be the way to go considering the tight quarters.

Like I said, If you have any advice or know of any additional parts I will need please feel free to let me know.

Also, If any of you need my 3 speed, the column linkage, or the drive shaft, let me know. I also have a new in the box never opened carpet set from ACC that came with the car that I will not be using. I believe its black.

1) Beat the firewall to floor seam flat and that should provide enough clearance.

2) I believe we used 273 mounts on my 318, but it's been 25 years since then. Somebody else will have to chime in on this one.

3) I believe those are your only two options for under chassis headers, assuming you don't want to build your own.

4) You need at least the linkage assembly with cable, but linkage and pedal would be better as the /6 and V8 pedal backs are shaped differently. I have seen members use pedal assemblies from later models as they are similar and easier to find.

5) Someone else will have to answer this one. I would suggest you actually measure for width and backspacing, rather than taking someone's word. Wheels and tires are an awfully large expense to take someone's word for. Bigblockdart.com has a tech section to lead you through the procedure. Also, are you sure you don't want to upgrade to big bolt pattern for more wheel options? You could look for '73 and later A-body single piston disk front instead and buy aftermarket axle shafts for the rear.

6) Either will work fine. It's up to your wallet and wants.

7) I see them on eBay fairly often. Someone else will have to chime in on this one as well.

8) Sounds like you've got it covered.

9) Once again, this answer is your choice. I see a lot of people on here installing them from underneath, but I've always gone in from the top.

I might be interested in the carpet if it is black, when you decide to part with it.

Good luck with both of your projects.

 

[stretch]

I am committed to the small bolt. Mostly because I have 99% of the parts and I just don't think the big bolt stuff looks good on the A-bodys. Yah, I know, I'm nuts! I just like the small bolt look.

 

[rod7515]

2) I know the K frame is the same on these cars for /6 and V8 but exactly what engine mounts do I need? Both on the block and the K frame.

I had to do a little extra with my engine in my 66 Dart which I think will be very similar to what you will be doing. Here is the link to the company I think most will tell you to use. I bought there mounts and things went together fairly decent. I was not able to get the engine exactly where they claimed it should sit but I worked around that. I also did some mods to the K frame for a little extra support. The company is called Schumacher.
Schumacher Creative Services

3) Although I love the look of fender well headers, I want under chassis headers. (I'm looking to be able to carve corners). Are TTI and Dougs my only options here? If so, what are the pros and cons of each? Do any of you have under car pictures of your exhaust systems with these headers? I can custom bend pipes at work, I'd just like an idea of whats going to need to happen down there. I will be modifying a spool type trans mount for dual exhaust clearance.

I purchased and installed the TTI Headers so I cant speak to any other header fitment. As for the TTI they were not the easiest to install and because I couldnt get my 360 engine sitting exactly where they claimed it should sit I had to modify slightly some of the tubes. I have manual steering so I dont know if PS would make it any tighter. As for installing them in I found I could put the drivers side on the engine bolted to the k frame but had to install the Passenger side after engine was in. Also on mine the torsion bars go in between some of the header tubes which will make removing a little more time consuming and difficult. But all in all I am happy with them.

5) I will be relocating the rear spring front mounts. Any idea on width and offset of the rear tires with this modification? I have an A-Body 8 3/4 that will remain stock width and will stay small bolt drum. I am converting the 9" front drums to Kelsey Hayes disk. I have everything except the front hubs. Anyone have a pair of front hubs they would be willing to sell?

I did a spring change to SS springs and relocated the front mounts. Also did a mini tub so I dont know what tire size would fit without the tub. I run 295/50R15.

6) Should I go with a factory disk proportioning valve or an adjustable aftermarket? (I'm leaning towards aftermarket for tunability).

I used the factory type proportioning valve but may end up going to an adjustable one down the road at some point.

7) Seat covers and headliner. Are they available for these cars?

I bought my headliner from one of the venders so I am sure you will be able to find those and seat covers from venders

9) Have any of you assembled the K frame with the under chassis headers and set the car down on the frame like in the factory? I'm thinking that might be the way to go considering the tight quarters.

If you visit my restoration thread you can see much of the work you are asking about I have run into as well as any early A body owners. I think you will run into many if not all of the same issues. This group was a great place to get info during my build which is still going on.
Heres a link to my thread. 1966 Dodge Dart If you have any questions you think I may have encountered feel free to give me a shout. I will answer anything I can.
Best of luck
Rod

 

[stretch]

I might be interested in the carpet if it is black, when you decide to part with it.

It would appear that it is in fact black.

 

[AJ/FormS]

As to the brakes
I have the KHers on my 68 Barracuda. And I also have the 10x2s on the back. I have 235/60-14s on the front and 295/50-15s on the back. I installed 15/16 w/cs in the back and a 15/16 dual M/C for power brakes. I used a 73 Dart brake booster.
I used the 73 Combination valve but gutted the proportioning section out of it, so it no longer works. I use it for a distribution block and the safety switch still works too. By doing this the rear brakes now receive full line pressure.
The rear brakes work awesome, and because the rear tires are so big compared to the front, they do a lot of the work. And they do not lock up first.
I remember swapping out those rear w/cs several times during testing and in fact there may currently be 1 inchers in there; I don't recall, as that was in year 2000 or so.
I also installed the braided lines up front, those have a nice feel to them.
The rear shoes do have to be replaced more often than the front pads tho, probably close to twice as often.

 

[AJ/FormS]

As to the engine mounting
I used the 1965 273 engine brackets and isolators, to mount a 340 in a 65 V100. I had to add a triangular piece to one of them, to catch one mounting ear on the engine. I do not recall which side, maybe the drivers side. But you will want to chain the engine down anyway cuz it doesn't take much power to tear the isolator.

 

[AJ/FormS]

As to headers
I highly recommend not to try and run the long-tube under chassis headers.They are hard enough to fit with an automatic.
By the same token, I ran Hooker fenderwells, the only game in town in 1975, and while they offer great accessibility, the lack of room in the wheelwells really limits your tire choices up front, and in turn,that really limits your handling.
It seems to me there is one manufacturer who offers a 3 down and 1 around for these cars. That is to say 1 pipe goes thru the apron and down the outside of the frame rail. That seems like a reasonable compromise. I have no experience with this header and cannot recall the name of the manufacturer. I myself would like to try it.

 

[AJ/FormS]

As to dropping the chassis down over everything; I did that once. I even built a nice support work for the engine/ tranny/K/suspension unit. But once was almost enough for me.
I used to take out the HO 360 every September long, and swap in a mellow 318 for the winter. Then on May long, back in went the 360. So I tried it a second time, but that was it, no more. This went on for about 5 years. Then I finally started makinh bnetter money and was able to buy a winter beater.Plus
I would take the 360 apart every winter to see if anything was amiss. And I caught a few things that couldda been expensive. But by the fourth winter the engine was hanging tuff so this was getting to be old news. After that the engine stayed in there. I think the last time out mightta been 2005. It now has over 100,000 miles on it, since it's maiden voyage in 1999.
So, to recap; I'm not a fan of chassis down. And yes I had a 2-post hoist.And line-up pins made.

If I was gonna do all that again, I might just make the top piece of the core-support removeable, for the little work it saves.

 

[trapster]

I replaced the 273 in my 64 dart with a '68 340 I also have the 10.5" flywheel
1) I made no modifications for the bell housing. I did order parts from brewers zbar etc. they worked fine but needed a little modification to not hit the dougs headers.
2) I am using the mounts made for this application from Shoemaker ? not sure about that name.
3) Dougs, I have power steering, what a pain but got it to work. had to replace the u-jount on the steering though. no other clearance issues
4)The 64 v8 throttle is a cable, but I think you can get one from a later year and it will work.
5) not a clue.
6) I went with the 69 disks small pattern.
7) buckets yes bench, I am not sure.
8) Sub frame connectors. Us Car Tool | Restorations, Unibody Stiffening, Body in White, Restoration Tools they also have other stiffening parts.
9) no
10) 4 core radiator, EFI,

Good Luck.

PS. your 65 should be able to handle the HIPO iron manifolds, I had trouble finding speedo gears for the early 833 so I went with a later one with the slip joint type trunion.

 

[BillGrissom]

If not mentioned, the V-8 centerlink will hit the 340 oil pan at the limit of travel. Slickest is to get a 64-66 273 oil pan (I think bolts up to a 318-340, not a 360) but many have strategically dented a later pan to clear. If you can't get a 64-66 V-8 pedal and linkage (now rare), Lokar makes cable assemblies for hot rodders. I saw a ~63 A-body in the junkyard with a newer pedal and cable from who-knows-what. Didn't match the factory holes, but somebody fixed 'er.