Easyest, Cheapest way up to 500 crank hp?

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stroker.. guys seem to be getting 500 hp almost by accident with a 408. stroker big block should do it pretty easy too.
 
I like to be different, how about a solid-cammed 325 cube (.040 over 318) small block, with significantly ported RHS heads and a paxton blower pushin through a 750 holley... =P~
 
Well its not exactly easy, but I think it would be pretty cool :cheers:
 
Ahh, yea.. Strokers are definatly a way to go for the wallets sake. Just wanted to see what else you can do for around the same money, and get similar results 8)
 
Stacked nitrous plates. Smaller the engine, more plates needed. Good luck :D.
 
340 with cam headers,valve springs and some popup's put an intake and aluminum heads if ya gotta have some flashy bling bling on it.thermoquad or a holley
 
cheapest?

HAha...what kind of durability? 5 passes or less? That answer is stock engine, $1000 worth of nitrous goodies, and up the nitrous and retard the timing till the headgaskets let go.

Most beneficial/durable 500 chp = Stroker NA SB

Most powerful for the least amount of money? (turbo) Forced Induction + Nitrous.

I hate these kind of questions.
Tell you how I AM going to get 480+ hp at the rear wheels.......

Stock 1989 360 Roller Cam longblock, with addition of my 3-18-1973 360s' windage tray and oilpan
Stock Cam
Stock Springs
Stock Pistons
New Double Roller Timing Chain
New Mopar P5007709 Timing Chain Tensioner

Here is a Excerpt about it:
TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER
This Timing Chain Tensioner stabilizes cam timing by reducing timing chain slack. It can be used in place of thrust plate P5249637.

P5007709 Timing Chain Tensioner (Small Block and 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L Truck Magnum/Jeep� Engines) $ 32.95

New Gasket Set
New Brass Freeze Plugs

Stock 1989 ~ 308' casting 360 heads, fresh valve job, new valve seals, intake ports Gasket Matched, smog ports welded, new valve seals.

Edelbrock RPM Air Gap - Gasket Matched

Holley 750 Double Pumper, modified for blow through, 3.5" inlet carb bonnet

1974 360 Duster~ Exhaust Manifolds, Dual 2.5" custom cross pipes to 3.5" Turbo pipe, to 3.5" SINGLE exhaust

Precision Turbo Engineering PT6776 turbocharger , .96 A/R, non ball bearing, non water cooled....good for 750hp.

Stock non MP vacuum advance distributor that will be recurved for proper boost manors.

Non-Intercooled...but am considering water injection...7psi daily or (low boost) 14 psi (hi boost)...which theoretically would be 420 rwhp, and 600rwhp respectively....all hypothetical of course, till I do it and show everybody.

Thats pretty much my engine, carb to pan.
 
My high school auto shop teacher always said....."Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?"
 
nx.gif
 
Prine said:
cheapest?

HAha...what kind of durability? 5 passes or less? That answer is stock engine, $1000 worth of nitrous goodies, and up the nitrous and retard the timing till the headgaskets let go.

Most beneficial/durable 500 chp = Stroker NA SB

Most powerful for the least amount of money? (turbo) Forced Induction + Nitrous.

I hate these kind of questions.
Tell you how I AM going to get 480+ hp at the rear wheels.......

Stock 1989 360 Roller Cam longblock, with addition of my 3-18-1973 360s' windage tray and oilpan
Stock Cam
Stock Springs
Stock Pistons
New Double Roller Timing Chain
New Mopar P5007709 Timing Chain Tensioner

Here is a Excerpt about it:
TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER
This Timing Chain Tensioner stabilizes cam timing by reducing timing chain slack. It can be used in place of thrust plate P5249637.

P5007709 Timing Chain Tensioner (Small Block and 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L Truck Magnum/Jeep� Engines) $ 32.95

New Gasket Set
New Brass Freeze Plugs

Stock 1989 ~ 308' casting 360 heads, fresh valve job, new valve seals, intake ports Gasket Matched, smog ports welded, new valve seals.

Edelbrock RPM Air Gap - Gasket Matched

Holley 750 Double Pumper, modified for blow through, 3.5" inlet carb bonnet

1974 360 Duster~ Exhaust Manifolds, Dual 2.5" custom cross pipes to 3.5" Turbo pipe, to 3.5" SINGLE exhaust

Precision Turbo Engineering PT6776 turbocharger , .96 A/R, non ball bearing, non water cooled....good for 750hp.

Stock non MP vacuum advance distributor that will be recurved for proper boost manors.

Non-Intercooled...but am considering water injection...7psi daily or (low boost) 14 psi (hi boost)...which theoretically would be 420 rwhp, and 600rwhp respectively....all hypothetical of course, till I do it and show everybody.

Thats pretty much my engine, carb to pan.
Click to expand...

Good god man, thats going to be a monster... I wonder how well the stock pistons will hold up to that boost...
 
A stock stroke 440 will get there with midly ported iron heads, 10:1 compression and a .525 lift hydraulic cam. Top it with an M1 or Team G manifold and an 850 carb and you're there.
 
Turbo,nitrous..please anyone can get there using those power adders..real men do it naturally aspirated...:-D:-D
 
Realistic men have a budget...lol. Sometimes that allows for big numbers, sometimes you have to cheat the gods a little. Not that boost or NO2 is cheap. The initial buy is, the steady fix gets more expensive than boost over time.
 
NukeSec1 has it right. This ought to do it.

https://secure.pawengineparts.com/500Mop.html

440 B&S to 500 CID.

If you want to stay with a small block, look for a 408 stroker. You're going to have to lean on it more/spin it tighter to get the power you're looking for. At some point the big block is going to make more sense from a monetary perspective.
 
NukeSec1 said:
My high school auto shop teacher always said....."Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?"
Click to expand...

Your absolutely right!!!..as soon as you say the word "stroker" cha ching the price goes up,but speaking from experience worth the price:-D:-D
 
I've seen versions of this all over:
Safe
Fast
Cheap
Pick any two.
 
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