eddy heads and what rockers to use?

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doofsduster70

1970 duster 340
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Feb 29, 2008
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Fox River Grove illinois
i am looking to get eddy's 340 head 60179 for my 1970 340, and i know that they say you need adjustable rocker arms. So i am wondering if the proform ones work or what works if those don't. eddy guys told me to buy the indy ones and there web site says like 1500 for them w/ shafts so i need a alternative please....
Thanks, Ryan
 
I used a set from Comp Cams priced way under that. Why they would recomend Indy rockers is beyond me. Unless a stock pushrod can be used.
You'll need new pushrods to fit the ball end of the rocker of the comp rockers.
 
Good choice in the Edelbrock heads,have them at least cleaned-up ie: a street port job,nothing major unless you choose,,for rockers i run the Comp Cam magnum rollers very nice setup and i believe they go for $460.00 from summit ..well worth the money spent...You don't need those $1500.00 ones,maybe edelbrock is getting a kickback from Indy...
 
YEP! Those are the rocker I use on my Edel. heads.
Stroked 340 is dead on about this deal. Nice street set up capable of running well.
 
Comp, cranes, factory ductile will all work more than adequate except under the most extreme conditions. You don't need adjustables or roller to run the eddy's. That's determined more by the camshaft.

Any reason you are getting the 60179 head and not the 60779? Is your engine together or apart? If apart you might want to see how the piston/deck heights are before ordering the heads.

The 60179 has a .060 machined recess for the increased compression height of the early 340 pistons.

If the piston is near zero deck or slightly out the hole, you may be better off running the 60779 with a thicker head gasket. Better quench that way.

Good luck with it.
 
lash caps and custom pushrods are another 200 bucks.
thats what i needed to fit my 1.5 alum. cranes to my 60779s. nevermind the 40 dollar shaft shims not being used.
 
got eddies on my 73 duster...

have used both crane adjustable ductile iron rockers..and mp non adjustable rockers...

using hughes hydraulic cam with 515/535 lift...both have worked just fine..

as noted above....depends on what cam you are using....
 
Comp Cams Pro Magnums on mine. It's only been run on the dyno, but so far, so good.

I like the steel body rather than aluminum. I like that the trunion does NOT use needle bearings. In both cases, it's durability I'm thinking of.
 
doofsduster70 said:
its the high compression 340 motor, with from what i am told the pistons come above the block
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i would double check to make sure where the pistons were before i bought the heads......usually stock 340 pistons will be out of the deck about .008..
 
My KB pistons came out of the block .018. Edelbrock tech told me to go with the 340 RPM's 60179. So that's what I did. Carl McQuillin, who has a machine shop in Leroy NY told me the same thing.
 
Cudaman51, if the pistons are .017 above the deck, you'll have to minus that from the gasket thickness to come up with the amount left over.
A .040 distance is a good safe amount and yet still retains a good quench distance.

Example;

.054 thick gasket (A Fel-Pro) - .017 piston out of the hole = .037, the distance from cylinder head to piston. Close, but not bad, excellent quench.

.054 - .017 = .037
 
The proform rockers I have seen were poor quality, I would not even consider them. I have Harland Sharp rockers on my eddy heads and they have performed well but are expensive.
 
Comp Cams Pro Magnum rockers here. I used the Hughes Engines hold down clamp package and it fit great.

Painted2_shrunk.jpg
 
340sFastback said:
Comp Cams Pro Magnum rockers here.
Click to expand...

Using the same setup as you with the exception of J-heads, am in the process of putting this motor together now. Have had good luck with the Comp roller rockers, they have a similar set for big blocks. Looks like you have the Crane retro hydraulic roller lifters that I'm using- these have turned out to be a pain as far as assembly goes. First they don't fit in the block without a bit of grinding. Put my heads on & the pushrod angle was changed so they hit the pushrod holes in the heads, required serious grinding. So far I've taken apart & washed the block & heads 3 times, what a pain!
 
396 Signet said:
Using the same setup as you with the exception of J-heads, am in the process of putting this motor together now. Have had good luck with the Comp roller rockers, they have a similar set for big blocks. Looks like you have the Crane retro hydraulic roller lifters that I'm using- these have turned out to be a pain as far as assembly goes. First they don't fit in the block without a bit of grinding. Put my heads on & the pushrod angle was changed so they hit the pushrod holes in the heads, required serious grinding. So far I've taken apart & washed the block & heads 3 times, what a pain!
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Yep, they have caused my tons of problems. Did you rotate the cam with the oil pump running? If not you should because I had to go with a custom ground small base circle to get mine to work to prevent excessive oil hemmorage problems.
 
340sFastback said:
Yep, they have caused my tons of problems. Did you rotate the cam with the oil pump running? If not you should because I had to go with a custom ground small base circle to get mine to work to prevent excessive oil hemmorage problems.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the oiling tip. I always check for oiling but haven't got to that point because of the problems. The cam I'm using is very mild, a little over 1/2" lift so hopefully this won't be a problem. If I knew about all the aggravation of these lifters I would've gone with a cheap flat tappet. Your motor musta cost a fortune!
 
I might be the isolated example here, but I tried to run Crane rollers on my Eddy's and the contact pattern on the valve stem was almost to the edge of the valve! I would have had to shim the rockers and possibly use lash caps. Not to mention buy ANOTHER set of custom pushrods. The block wasn't decked, the heads are new and un-milled, and I was using an .063 (IIRC) FelPro head gasket. The cam is a Comp dual pattern .488/.491. I would STRONGLY suggest you check everything while it's still a non-runner and you can pull it apart easily if there's any problems. As far as just bolting it all together, it didn't work for me.
SANY0006-vi.jpg

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I yanked the rollers out and installed a stock shaft, pushrods, & rocker set-up.
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Sunofabitch runs just fine..... :-D

http://media.putfile.com/CooolIdle
 
340sFastback said:
I had to go with a custom ground small base circle to get mine to work to prevent excessive oil hemmorage problems.
Click to expand...

Holy crap, this thing's killing me! Just checked the lifter oiling & have at least one that's a little above the hole. Crane didn't engineer the retro rollers well, the lifter groove is too big & in wrong position. Who'd you get your small base circle cam from? Did you look into any other options other than a cam change? Thanks!
 
396 Signet said:
Holy crap, this thing's killing me! Just checked the lifter oiling & have at least one that's a little above the hole. Crane didn't engineer the retro rollers well, the lifter groove is too big & in wrong position. Who'd you get your small base circle cam from? Did you look into any other options other than a cam change? Thanks!
Click to expand...

It's not the lifters... it's the block.

The blocks were machined poorly, castings poured with rough tolerances.

The lifters bores you have an issue with, may not be in another block and the other might have problems with bores that yours fit fine.

All part of hopping up 35+year old stuff.

You'll need a cam cut with a smaller base circle, which is not uncommon for SB mopars. Why the manufactures don't do it from the start...

Call Brian at Indio Motor Machine 760-342-2178
He had a smaller base circle cam cut for me from Comp.
 
crackedback said:
It's not the lifters... it's the block.

The blocks were machined poorly, castings poured with rough tolerances.

The lifters bores you have an issue with, may not be in another block and the other might have problems with bores that yours fit fine.

All part of hopping up 35+year old stuff.

You'll need a cam cut with a smaller base circle, which is not uncommon for SB mopars. Why the manufactures don't do it from the start...

Call Brian at Indio Motor Machine 760-342-2178
He had a smaller base circle cam cut for me from Comp.
Click to expand...

Crane should have taken block variances into account. No way is there as huge a difference between blocks that this couldn't be done. Was hoping to avoid changing cams, custom rollers are not cheap. Might look into the new comp cams lifters. What a waste of $$, hate when you buy stuff you can't use. Thanks for suggestion, might go that route.
 
Sorry about bringing the true cause to your attention. Some blocks need the smaller circle, others don't.

A custom roller won't be much more than the one you can buy at summit from some of the good cam guys, but I digress.

Good luck with your build and go scream at crane...

PS - if you'd have asked on this board about using a hydraulic roller you would have been suggested to get a reduced base circle by more than one person. :-D

Have a great day!
 
crackedback said:
Call Brian at Indio Motor Machine 760-342-2178
He had a smaller base circle cam cut for me from Comp.
Click to expand...

Brian had a custom roller cam ground for me with a smaller base circle and the oil grooves are very well covered now. It was actually cheaper then the Crane cam I had before. Brian is a great guy to work with too.

If you have not fired the engine yet you might be able to return your cam for a full refund. That is what I did.
 
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