Edelbrock Rpm heads on 360

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Static CR would be around 9.2 with those new heads and 1008 head gaskets, with a nominal deck height.

Dynamic CR will be right 7.9-8.0 with that cam installed at an ICL of 104 degrees. Certainly runnable that way IMHO. Just gotta be cautious a bit with ignition timing. The AL heads help some to avoid detonation-land, so that is another positive of those heads.

You lucked out! And torquey.... You're gonna need a LOT of rear tires for that ute LOL
 
you have no quench so run the thicker gasket and do your ignition timing without the vacuum advance till you get it right
then do the vacuum advance
 
Ah yes... H405CP's...why did I not think of that. Modest CR and would be around .045" below deck at TDC.

Speed-Pro Cast Piston (Carton of 8)

NM9 Thanks for your reply, Sounds like safe compression and good lift for the valve train.
Got 1 head on and the preload is good, Manifolds will fit better than headers so new front pipes next week.
ill sort out rest over weekend.
360 headers for right hand drive A bodies are soooo expensive.

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The manifolds have more back pressure, so a less efficient exhaust, so a bit more residual combusted gases in the chambers, so that might help slow combustion and keep pressures down.

As mentioned above, a thicker head gasket (Felpro 8553PT), retarding the cam timing, a step larger cam, and keeping the ignition timing not too aggressive are your 'fallbacks' if you run into any hints of pinging or detonation. You're in a workable range.
 
If that thing detonates, something is VERY wrong.

.070 in the hole, with any head gasket shouldn't put you in danger of too much cylinder pressure.
 
It's not the cylinder pressure
it's the burn pattern
it's too far from the spark plug to the intake side of the chamber
dish under the pug and valves and tight quench on the intake side is what works
not saying that if you are racing with race gas you can't make it work at over the torque peak rpm
it's the area under and around the torque peak that you get problems
boats, trucks, motorhomes, towing are worse but street can still be bad if you lug it or load it up
THERE IS NO SAFE COMPRESSION WITH OPEN CHAMBER HEADS OR PISTONS DOWN THE HOLE
 
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I got Ute back together, got oil psi and went to put plugs in but they don’t fit, what plugs do I need for it?
 
Edelbrock recommended plug is the Campion RC12YC.
 
So I got the old valiant Ute out to the drags yeasterday, no traction in 1st and 2nd so ran 15s all day. Best was 95mph
Sticky tyres and an msd dizzy for Xmas should help it.
Crappy single point dizzy and had the timing at 8 degrees it revs good to 5k. Definitely a few things to work on but every car I raced was an automatic. My old a833 isnt a fast gearchanger that’s for sure. Nothing broke so was a real good day out

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Sounds like you are on the way to success. Wish they would've sold the ute versions here in the states, I'd definitely have one.
 
Yep, my old Ranchero (like a Ford 'ute' over here) was not a traction king by any means. With a manual, all you can do is put on better tires and learn out how to feed out the clutch at launch.... .used to have to do that in rally stage starts to get just the best amount of wheelspin. Glad you got it going!
 
How much total advance should I be looking at for my 360, had a single points dizzy in it and was only getting 28/30 degrees at 3500, Have now added a electronic dizzy with mopar orange box and some new leads.
 
How much total advance should I be looking at for my 360, had a single points dizzy in it and was only getting 28/30 degrees at 3500, Have now added a electronic dizzy with mopar orange box and some new leads.
With the vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged, 30-32, total with vacuum advance hose connected, 50-52.
 
My old a833 isnt a fast gearchanger that’s for sure. Nothing broke so was a real good day out
But, that A-833 can be modded to shift like greased lightning to at least 7200(the highest I go to), or you can buy pre-prepped gears and sleeves from Brewers.. However;
At your rpm you shouldn't be having a problem, and the mods aren't really required. Perhaps just a lil more departure and or a thinner oil. Some guys have had success with synthetics, but I did not, no matter how many mods I threw at mine. I really really tried but that oil was just too slippery.
One of the most successful mods you can do is to anchor the external levers to the studs so they absolutely cannot come loose or wiggle around. I loc-tite the cavities and the special nuts. The loc-tite turns to "stone"and that's the end of it. Make sure it doesn't wick into the cover. I have used both blue or red, but for different reasons. If the internal O-rings on the pins are new then Red, cuz once Red is used getting the levers apart will be tuff. If the O-rings are old then blue cuz little or no heat will be required. After the loc-tite has set, adjust as usual; I don't bias the gate at all cuz my car a streeter, and I still occasionally gotta downshift like lightning too,lol..
 
Between 32-34 degs total for power. They are pretty sensitive to timing changes. The best way is with everything else sorted out, fuel,traction ect. The car needs to be consistent. You go to the track and start at say 30 degs and make a run and keep adding 2 degree until you lose mph. Then back up 2 degs, but 32-34 for power should be a good starting point while you work on all the other things.
 
Between 32-34 degs total for power. They are pretty sensitive to timing changes. The best way is with everything else sorted out, fuel,traction ect. The car needs to be consistent. You go to the track and start at say 30 degs and make a run and keep adding 2 degree until you lose mph. Then back up 2 degs, but 32-34 for power should be a good starting point while you work on all the other things.
This! ^^^^^^
 
And the alternator fit is a pain.
The older "squareback" alternators seem to clear the Eddy head a lot better. You might also need to play around with the length of the belt to get the alternator to sit in the right spot.

I had to grind a very small corner off of the LH head to clear part of the P.S. pump's return line.

Stock exhaust manifolds might work, but you might need 2 or more gaskets to create clearance, which obviously causes more problems with leaks, or at the worst cracks.
 
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Remember that if you have LA experience the Eddies will take less advance to work better- more like the late LA 302/ 308 or Magnum heads
do not overadvance
 
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