Edelbrock Streetmaster 318

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The only real difference is the port size is smaller than a 360.
You could gasket match. Or if the 360 is basic and stock you might never notice a difference.
 
Exactly,

The smaller sized 'plenum' on the 'Streetmaster 318' is designed for that purpose,
a smaller CFM-rated Carburetor.

The early Carter AFB's {Advertised @ 500 CFMs'} off the 273 Commando have.
* Primary ....... 1 7/16" {1.437"}
* Secondary ... 1 9/16" {1.562"}

A too big Carburetor on the 'Streetmaster 318' defeats the intent {purpose} of the
low-rise single-plane Manifold.

I have used an older Holley 550 CFM {1 9/16" x 1 9/16" Throttle-Bores} with the
'Streetmaster 318', and it works like 'A Charm'.

I have a book written by Paul Zazarine on the Pontiac GTO. He was a large man & I believe he passed way. Same bloke?
Sadly Paul Zazarine died at the age of 58 in 2011.
69 Cúda 440 has posted well past that date.
saw one of these on fb marketplace for $150 could stop from wondering whither it would work on a 360?
I would only use the Edelbrock Streetmaster on a mileage seeking adventure. Or the SP2 intake.

You’re better off with a Weiand Action Plus or a RPM.
 
saw one of these on fb marketplace for $150 could stop from wondering whither it would work on a 360?
Same bolt up, smaller passages and plenum restrictor, great from idle to 4500

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saw one of these on fb marketplace for $150 could stop from wondering whither it would work on a 360?
Bolt up, yes. Work well on a 360, I wouldn't myself. They are designed for 318's with small ports and a restricted plenum under the carb flange. A Weiand Stealth or a newer Edelbrock Performer would work better I think. A old LD 340 would work well on a 360 as well. THey are still around but are a bit hard to find and spendy. Can you say "restrictor plate"?
 
Sadly Paul Zazarine died at the age of 58 in 2011.
69 Cúda 440 has posted well past that date.

I would only use the Edelbrock Streetmaster on a mileage seeking adventure. Or the SP2 intake.

You’re better off with a Weiand Action Plus or a RPM.
Definitely for mpg, and less weight, no egr, it would be in the motor home
 
I know this is an old thread, but it caught my attention because I know of a Dart that had an Edelbrock Streetmaster, without any porting polishing or machining, on a very old tired (100,000 plus miles) 1978 360 truck block engine and its stock smog air pump heads, headers, true dual exhaust, 904 automatic, 3.23 rear gears, Holley 750 with vacuum secondary and a Crane "C" cam that was some sort of "RV cam". I think it weighed in at roughly 3,750 lbs and ran 14.50's in the quarter, all day long (that was at a track at 1000 feet elevation. It ran strong all the way to 5800 rpm. Wasn't run above that simply because of the old tired valve springs and the fact it had a stock cast crank.
Sure, not super stock or top fuel excitement, but for a daily driven beater built on the super cheap, it was a very fun car to ride in.

If I had a need, on a tight budget and one were available, I wouldn't turn my nose up at them.
 
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Sorry, not buying the story in post #31.
First, RV cams are not designed to run to 5800 rpm. they are low rpm cams.
Second, the Streetmaster intake peaks at 4500 rpm

img203.jpg
 
Streetmaster was some 70's relic from the bad 'ol days of Jimmy Carter, gas crisis and smog controls and it's best use is as a wall hanger.
 
if these are such junk then why does everybody want real money for them still?
 
if these are such junk then why does everybody want real money for them still?
What they want and what they get are two different things. I see people asking stupid money for all sorts of garbage on FB market or Ebay.

I just sold a locked up B&S engine for $20, I tossed it on FB market as a joke.

Someone purchased it. lol

The reality is the intake was made for a certain time and place and even then was pretty limited. If you were going to drop $100-$150 for a used intake there are more than a fair number of Edelbrock Performers or Torquers out there or spend $200 for a Chinese air gap clone.

Someone posted a dyno sheet from Edelbrock, by 4500 rpm the intake is DONE. Installing one of a 360 will drive that number even lower, conversely installing one on a 273 will move that number up a bit.

Can't polish a turd; it's a byproduct of the "must save mpg no matter what" craze of the 70's and is right up there with magnets on the fuel line, vacuum "mpg gauges," tornado air filters and other garbage sold to the public in that timeframe.
 
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if these are such junk then why does everybody want real money for them still?
Cause they're crooks. I think 300 plus is slap ridiculous for LD340s and LD4Bs. As long a dumbasses keep payin it, people will keep askin it.
 
Someone posted a dyno sheet from Edelbrock, by 4500 rpm the intake is DONE. Installing one of a 360 will drive that number even lower, conversely installing one on a 273 will move that number up a bit.

which is exactly why i want one! it's perfect for a 273 2bbl motor and "period correct".

anyway... it's like anything: there's a time and place for everything. asses, seats, and all that.
 
Cause they're crooks. I think 300 plus is slap ridiculous for LD340s and LD4Bs. As long a dumbasses keep payin it, people will keep askin it.
i think 300~350 is more than fair for a good condition LD manifold considering that the plain ol' performer is now over $400

the rest of that stuff? people be smokin' them rocks.
 
Cause they're crooks. I think 300 plus is slap ridiculous for LD340s and LD4Bs. As long a dumbasses keep payin it, people will keep askin it.
I have a real nice LD4B and I know if I put $400 on it at the swap meet this spring, it will sell fast and I wish I had started out higher. They do have a cult following but they do work very well.
 
which is exactly why i want one! it's perfect for a 273 2bbl motor and "period correct".

anyway... it's like anything: there's a time and place for everything. asses, seats, and all that.
Well technically the Streetmaster came out well after the 273 was shelved for the 318. I'd go with an early 340 intake like the one picture for $125 but understand if you want to run one for nostalgia reasons.

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i think 300~350 is more than fair for a good condition LD manifold considering that the plain ol' performer is now over $400

the rest of that stuff? people be smokin' them rocks.
I see Performers all the time on FB Market for $75-$150.
 
I have a real nice LD4B and I know if I put $400 on it at the swap meet this spring, it will sell fast and I wish I had started out higher. They do have a cult following but they do work very well.
No doubt about it they do. There's no denying the hot rod coolness factor.
 
I see Performers all the time on FB Market for $75-$150.
as do i... but that's the boring choice. and i like to be difficult just for the sake of it.

besides a wheeze bag 273 that's not gonna see the high side of 5K? that's the perfect vessel!
 
as do i... but that's the boring choice. and i like to be difficult just for the sake of it.

besides a wheeze bag 273 that's not gonna see the high side of 5K? that's the perfect vessel!
Exactly;
I have a very nice 360 combo that goes 93 in the 660, and pulls to well past 7000, yet;
for the vast majority of time, it is at under 3500.
I'd bet it spends more time at under 2000 rpm than at over 5000.
For a streeter, dyno hp doesn't mean much. For most of us we only pull thru the Power peak but one time, before we are speeding. For instance, my 3.55s and 4-speed hit 65 in Second at 5500, on a cam that peaks around there, and at WOT, the tires may still be spinning.
7000 gets me near 85mph. On the two-three shift, the engine drops back to peak power, and if the tires break loose, she's gunna jump back to 7000 .....
But you know how often this happens?
Well,
She went to the track one day, and I ran her 4 runs.
Two runs were incompletes.
On a third, the timers didn't work in my lane.
On the Fourth run, everything came together for 93 in the 660.
Time wise, I live 20 minutes from the nearest town, so, the engine is at 60=2070, in overdrive., for some 40 minutes every time it goes out. and once I get to where I'm going, the town speed limit is 30mph. She spends a lot of time just idling around at 550rpm = 4mph.
So, why do I have a 5500rpm powerpeak?
Why indeed.
Like most guys, I aimed too high. But, at least I did it right with cylinder pressures from 185 to near 200, depending on which cam I was running; so, except for the 292 cam I started with, my 367 has always had a strong bottom end. That's what makes an engine fun, as opposed to 93 in the 660, once every 10 to 20 years.
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Bottom line is this, build your combo for torque in the zone that she will spend the most amount of time, and you will be a happy guy.

Btw;
back in the mid 70s, I ran that 273/318 cam in a hi-compression 340, with a 318 top-end, an automatic, and 3.23s, in a 65 Valiant Wagon ; and I still remember that combo with much fondness. As far as street combo's go, that's probably my favorite all time combo.
The point is this; in a 340 hi-Compression, that cam was awesome.
If your 273 (or 318) is down on power, don't blame the factory cam right away. Sometimes I think about installing that cam, or a 360 2bbl-cam, into my HotRod, and I've been waiting for over a decade for the current 230/110 cam to die, so I can justify pulling it out, but it just keeps on ticking ..... The 360 cam would jump my pressure to 200 on the nose. Shazzam!! talk about bottom end.
 
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