Electric choke wire hookup

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I have two field wires coming from the alternator one is green and the other one is blue also there is a blue wire going to the coil
 
I put one of these on the end of the choke heater wire and hooked it to the blue wire. Kiss applies here.
piggy back.jpg
 
Ok I’m just confused some people say it could cause a meltdown connecting there at the ballest resistor
 
Oh ya. Anything you connect into these old cars can cause a meltdown. Hell even the factory harness can melt down. If you know how. hook it up with a relay and a fused supply from the battery or starter solenoid post. But you will need to know how to wire a relay. I hooked mine to the ballast wire 10+ years ago and no meltdown yet. Your choice.
 
Oh ya. Anything you coonect into these old cars can cause a meltdown. Hell even the factory harness can melt down. If you know how. hook it up with a relay and a fused supply from the battery or starter solenoid post. But you will need to know how to wire a relay. I hooked mine to the ballast wire 10+ years ago and no meltdown yet. Your choice.
Lol yea I’m not too electric smart but if someone can draw me a diagram I can probably do it
 
Not trying to be a dick, but if you own an old mopar you better get a factory manual and take a look at schematics.
I had mine hooked to ballast, with same connector that TMM showed. Not sure which side, I'll take a look for a pic. Go to mymopar.com and download a free manual.
 
Not trying to be a dick, but if you own an old mopar you better get a factory manual and take a look at schematics.
I had mine hooked to ballast, with same connector that TMM showed. Not sure which side, I'll take a look for a pic. Go to mymopar.com and download a free manual.
Ok will do thanks
 
No relay. I swapped carbs and removed the wire. I struggle with electrical as well so you're not alone. You HAVE TO get a manual. And a fire extinguisher...seriously I carry one in my car.
Ok I see.now do you have a relay on yours or is directly to the choke?
 
No relay. I swapped carbs and removed the wire. I struggle with electrical as well so you're not alone. You HAVE TO get a manual. And a fire extinguisher...seriously I carry one in my car.
Yea i ALWAYS carryva fire extinguisher in mine as well
 
Here's the "other thing" about using a relay, and has nothing, really to do with the choke, ----except it does. Confused?

These girls have problems with the ammeter / bulkhead connector circuit, and or th ignition switch and connector. The bottom line is that voltage drop in the harness through "all that" causes LOWER voltage at the ballast, and that is the VOLTAGE SENSE for the regulator............so it ramps up charging voltage to make up for that point being low. .....and runs the battery "over" voltage

You come along and add more load.........it gets worse............

Might be a great time to add a relay, "not hard." Essentially you cut the "ignition run" wire coming out of the bulkhead (usually dark blue) and feed the bulkhead connector end to trigger a relay. Feed the switched contacts "the load" to the other end of the wire. Tap off power from the starter relay to the new relay. Use a breaker or big fuse, because that circuit was NOT originally fused anywhere

Go to MyMopar and download yourself a free manual and wiring diagrams. Go to MAD Electrical and read about the ammeter problems

There are plenty of posts on this, do a search
 
Which blue wire?

Ok I’m just confused some people say it could cause a meltdown connecting there at the ballest resistor
There is only 1 blue wire. It originates at ignition switch. It is not fused. It branches to everything in the engine bay that requires switched 12 volts, Including the horn through 67 model.
"Meltdowns" are typical to weak or corroded terminals/connections and usually limited to right there. Bulkhead terminals, the white connector after column mounted ignition switch, white connector in engine bay harness are three examples of typical factory terminal meltdowns. None of those meltdowns are directly related to a electric choke.
It's a short circuit that melts a wire from here to yonder. And a terminal/connector meltdown can short one circuit into adjacent, melting wires here to yonder. Chit happens, even in OEM wiring harnesses.
That piggy back male spade terminal shown in post #39 appears to be sufficient. Whether at the ballast resistor as shown or back of alternator, same blue wire circuit so dealers choice.
In my opinion, at ballast resistor "looks" best choice. Nothing very close to short circuit into. Properly route it, tape it into the OEM harness, whatever, to prevent chaffing through the wire casing to chassis ground.
 
There is only 1 blue wire. It originates at ignition switch. It is not fused. It branches to everything in the engine bay that requires switched 12 volts, Including the horn through 67 model.
"Meltdowns" are typical to weak or corroded terminals/connections and usually limited to right there. Bulkhead terminals, the white connector after column mounted ignition switch, white connector in engine bay harness are three examples of typical factory terminal meltdowns. None of those meltdowns are directly related to a electric choke.
It's a short circuit that melts a wire from here to yonder. And a terminal/connector meltdown can short one circuit into adjacent, melting wires here to yonder. Chit happens, even in OEM wiring harnesses.
That piggy back male spade terminal shown in post #39 appears to be sufficient. Whether at the ballast resistor as shown or back of alternator, same blue wire circuit so dealers choice.
In my opinion, at ballast resistor "looks" best choice. Nothing very close to short circuit into. Properly route it, tape it into the OEM harness, whatever, to prevent chaffing through the wire casing to chassis ground.
Also what’s a good size gauge wire to use for the wire for the choke?
 
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