electric choke

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ecurb

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i have a 600cfm eddie carb that has an electric choke. wondering the best place to wire it to.
i was told to the positve side of the coil or battery side of the alternator? is one better then then the other or is there a better way. thanks
 
You just need to wire it to a constant 12V supply. On the ignition circuit would be best since you don't want it hot while the key is off.

Of course Im no guru about electrical so might want to wait for others input (that's my disclaimer)
 
You just need to wire it to a constant 12V supply. On the ignition circuit would be best since you don't want it hot while the key is off.

Of course Im no guru about electrical so might want to wait for others input (that's my disclaimer)

X2

Edelbrock specifically states in their electric choke instructions, that he + wire should be keyed 12V so its activated with the key.
 
I would wire it into the +12V side of the ballast resistor. You need a switched 12V source or the choke will never open fully. The + side of the coil would only give you 7-8V if you still have a Mopar ignition. Wiring the choke to a constant 12V source will burn it out if the battery doesn't go flat first...
 
Not that it matters that much where it gets 12 volts from, but a source where it is only powered with the key on is mandatory.
I never liked drawing power directly off the ignition system for accesories like that.
(meaning ballast/coil)
Mine is connected to an accessory circuit of my fusebox that is powered only when the key is on.
 
great info guys. thanks will start looking for that blue wire w white tracer. good thing i didn't hook it to costant power. bruce
 
Bruce, grab a test light and find a wire that is live when the key is turned on and in the run position and off when the key is out. Splice it in there.
 
Never hook any choke to the ignition circuit! The only place to hook the choke where it won't create an unnecessary and potentially harmful draw is the same place the factory hooked it to...the FLD. circuit on the Alternator. A simple jumper connection between the original wire and the field spade on the alternator is all you need. You should also try to incorporate a thermal limiter like the factory did so that the choke is not a constant draw. It's not needed, but a good idea.
 
I just did a Holley w/electric choke on a GM vehicle. Directions warned about not using ign source
for power. I used ignition source to trigger a common relay wired directly to battery.
 
I bought the relay at the auto parts store. It came as a kit w/ connectors & wire for approx $10.
 
^^^ Relay: The best way to do it.

BTW, I think the FLD connection referenced in post 9 above is the field output of the older stye regulator if I undestand where whitepunkonniro is referring to; pretty interesting idea IMO. (This would be for the older 1 field terminal alternator system, not the later 2 field terminal system.) Maybe he will confirm....
 
^^^ Relay: The best way to do it.

BTW, I think the FLD connection referenced in post 9 above is the field output of the older stye regulator if I undestand where whitepunkonniro is referring to; pretty interesting idea IMO. (This would be for the older 1 field terminal alternator system, not the later 2 field terminal system.) Maybe he will confirm....

Pick a Fld. spade on the back of the alternator and just go for it. Either will work, I never actually paid attention to which one I have ever plugged into.
 
Pick a Fld. spade on the back of the alternator and just go for it. Either will work, I never actually paid attention to which one I have ever plugged into.
LOL well that makes it easy! BTW for the later 2 field wire alternator, one wire IS the ignition source wire, and connecting the choke to the other will make some field current flow all the all the time the ignition is on. If the choke current is small compared to the normal field current then I suppose it would work fine; never would have thought of doing that. Now I gotta check some factroy scematics!
 
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