Electrical or ground issue?

Electrical and Ignition

  1. Valiant273

    Valiant273 Member

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    Hi all,

    It has been a long time since I've posted but recently have been having an extremely frustrating issue. Long story long :)

    Late last Summer I had a wee wirefire which was directly my fault. My ballast resistor had not been mounted on the firewall since I bought the car years before. I always looked and it and said " I should mount that puppy properly" Well I didn't and it eventually flopped over onto my choke cable casing and promptly fried a whack of the wiring right up to the bulkhead connector.

    This Spring my son and I have replaced or spliced as best as we could but still have an aggravating complete power loss/shutoff that can last 1-2 seconds and then it comes back. This may happen a number of times until the temp reaches about 150F. It starts and idles fine but once you give it some juice it can completely drop but not die. Until it gets to the magic 150 F and then it runs perfectly. I have replaced the dist cap/rotor and the main wire from cap to coil. Swapped coil and ICM as I had spares. Checked/fixed grounds anywhere we thought it could be a problem.
    I'm pretty good with mechanical fixes as I grew up working on cars/truck but electrical/ignition baffles me. I borrowed a multi meter but honestly not sure how to use it other than measuring voltage :)

    Any thoughts /suggestions?
     
  2. Demonic

    Demonic Well-Known Member

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    Well, it sounds like an intermittent connection that is improved by heat. Usually it's the other way around. Any time you have a high amp condition, like ya'll did with the choke/ballast, the female connectors can lose their tension on the male side. I'd go back and remove the female connectors from the bulkhead and inspect thoroughly. You said it fried up to the bulkhead. It likely did not stop there.
     
  3. Valiant273

    Valiant273 Member

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  4. Valiant273

    Valiant273 Member

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    Thanks yes. We MacGuyvered a couple of the wires going into the bulkhead as I didn't have the proper ends. Just used male tab type leads and jammed them in. Two in the middle top row of the bulkhead connector in particular.
     
  5. moparmarkk

    moparmarkk Well-Known Member

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    how about getting factory manual and shoot the wires with the mulimeter?
     
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    • Mattax

      Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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      I agree with Demonic. It sounds like its choke related. Whether directly or due to issue with too much resistance when the electric choke assist is on.

      Electrically. Simple test is disconnect the choke assist. And if its a aftermarket electric only choke, mechanically hold it open.
      Better electrical test will be measure the drop in voltage between the alternator output or battery positive and ignition run wire.
      Red probe or aligator clip on the highest voltage location.
      My pref would be alternator output stud but on harnesses its covered in a boot.
      Black probe or aligator clip the battery positive, then the ignition run at the ballast resistor, then the electric choke connector.
      Write each of them down. Write down what the ammeter is indicating.
      Repeat as the warms up.

      This assumes the multimeter can provide a voltage readings as low as 0.1 V
      If not then measure voltage to ground at each of the junctions.
      For a given current, the bigger the voltage difference indicates a larger resistance in that circuit.

      Many times the fusible link was located at the bulkhead connector.
      If that was melted, replace with a reproduction.
       
    • Mattax

      Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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      A good crimper and leads is really really worth it.
      Packard 56 male terminals are a close match for the bulkhead disconnects.
      Packard 58 female terminals are a close match for the firewall side of the connector. PICO canada also sells Chrysler style female terminals.
      For the connector seals, contact DMT.
       
    • Mike69cuda

      Mike69cuda 64 is the new 17 FABO Gold Member

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      Ha e you replaced the ballast resistor?
       
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