Electrical problem at steering column

[1beeone]

I went to start my car up yesterday and it willing crank of put had no spark.
I just happen to look under the dash and discover that the connector from the column was broken it half. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, how did you solve it. I do not know if you can buy a new connector or not.
The car is a 73 plymouth duster.
Thanks Jim

 

[TrailBeast]

Well,,,That sucks
I dont know how you would feel about it obviously, but I'd be tempted to remove the connector and reconnect the wires themselves together.

 

[1beeone]

Thanks TrailBeast, I though about doing the same thing.
Thanks Jim

 

[70-duster]

Looks like a short.

 

[jefflock]

Something sure got hot to cause that. Be sure to look your system over for a short.

 

[66CudaFormulaS]

Check the wires where they come out of the column. The wires rubbing the edge of the square opening caused a short in mine. I replaced the turn signal switch assembly and wrapped the wires in this area. I believe that slant 6 Dan carries these switches (danielsternlighting.com)

Rob

 

[4404spd]

There is a problem for it to burn like that, Don't put a band aid on the problem. I'd hate to see your car burn up.

 

[gregpurcell]

I pull a lot of wiring harnesses and I see that often, both in the column and in the firewall connector. Something puts a heavy load on the power supply feed. It can be a number of things. One of the most common is that the wiper motor shorts out.

The wiper pivots can corrode from pitting and either lock up or put a heavy drag on the motor. In a perfect world the fuse blows but not always. Corrosion in the plug can cause it to draw too much current also. Someone mentioned a loose connection on the ammeter connections on a different post, but that's more likely to burn the firewall connector.

You can check for a dead short with a test light. Connect your light to the POSITIVE battery terminal and touch the light probe to both sides of the burnt red wire. If there is a short to ground, the light will light up.

Once you find the problem, many people splice the connector out of the system. You could also splice in a new connector or to really go all-out replace the steering column and underdash wiring completely.

 

[RedFish]

There are a few things that get their power through that wire. The combined load can become overload which is likely what we see here.
If the electric choke assist is present in your 73 you'll find a small white ceramic part mounted with one of the coil brackets bolts. Cut that thing out to delete it.
If you want to peek inside it before you toss it in the trash, that's fine.
Also have a close look at the white harness connector in the same arae ( back of right valve cover ). You may find more melting there.
Putting the wiring back together with common molex connectors from Radio Shack or some other method is the simple part. Find what caused it first.
Good luck

 

[jay dcpt]

So what did you end up doing to repair the problem? And thank you 66cuda for the website i have the same dillema in my 73.

 

[1beeone]

Thanks everyone for your help, I did find the problem. The wire that goes to the alternator had a loose pin at the connector that comes from the steering column, looks like the e-brake arm was rubbing against it. I could not find both connectors. I found two Plymouth scamps at local junkyards and both had bad connectors. My fix was too just remove the old connector and put in T-Tap that both ends are insulated in. The car starts and runs now,I thing I am going to save my money up a nd buy an new dash harness and just replace my 40 year old wiring problem.