Electrnic Ignition Swap Help

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popps9

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Ok i need " Electronic Ignition Swap For Dummies", I have read a number of articles about it but now I am so confused. Can someone please explain with pic's how I do this , I plan on getting all or most needed parts from the J/yard. I have 1966 Dart with a 225 and i want to upgrade to electronic. So if anyone can help please do . thanks in advance.
 
It's cake.

Blue/yellow goes to key power at the ballast
Black/yellow goes to negative coil
Green/red not used.
 
ecudia.jpg
 
ya ya..what he said, and consider upgrading to an electronic voltage regulator too. EZ and a great upgrade to the ol six. That diagram is easier to understand than the others that just show the plug because you may not know if they are looking into the plug (backwards) or looking at the ECU, always thought that was dumb.
 
You can even put a second field into your old single field alternator, just get a '90' (sometimes called horizontal brush) brush and replace the grounded brush in the old alternator with this new isolated field brush, run them both back to the new voltage regulator. Many older alternators have this ability. Old mechanicals regulate the + voltage to the alternator, and the single field alternator was internally grounded. The "isolated field" alternator doesnt regulate the + voltage but regulates the ground connection, completing the circuit. Its a more stable 13.5 or so volts. REmember to ground the case of the regulator with a star washer and a clean mounting hole.
 
pishta said:
Its a more stable 13.5 or so volts. REmember to ground the case of the regulator with a star washer and a clean mounting hole.
Click to expand...

Hi, Pishta. Actually the quality of the regulator has more to do with voltage stability than the way it's hooked up. I guess you were suggesting that generally the isolated field regulators are better than the old 69/ earlier systems, and PROBABLY this used to be the case.
 
Thanks for the quick response that allmakes sense now thanks again. Headed to the J/yard tom. morning
 
I have a question on this. I have a 68 Barracuda. Could you show me on this diagram where the voltage regulator plugs in? Is it in the same place where the yellow is diagrammed here?

I just installed the Proform 66991 and my car will not run. I have the blue wire in the right spot, but the Proform instructions show the brown wire from the ignition going to where the yellow wire is illustrated here. Then I have the plug from the voltage regulator also to where the yellow is illustrated here.

I'm not happy. Can anyone here help me on this??


abodyjoe said:
ecudia.jpg
Click to expand...
 
No, the ignition "blue" so called "ign 1" or "ignition run" is where the regulator gets it's voltage.

What you must remember, is that with a "4 pin" ECU using a "2 pin" ballast,

THE BALLAST AND COIL are hooked up exactly as they were with points.

All you do is

1 Remove the points dist. wire from coil neg

2 ADD the power lead (light blue) to the key side of the ballast

3 Hook the black/ yel trac to the coil neg.

4 Plug the new dist. into it's plug.
 
Man, I really appreciate your coming to my rescue, but I simply don't get it.

What is the KEY SIDE????

I am way beyond just doing anything. I have everything disconnected and obviously broken.

Could you confirm which side of the ballast resistor each of these goes????

RIGHT SIDE of RESISTOR is RUN WIRE(blue), REGULATOR WIRE, BLUE IGN MODULE WIRE(blue)????

LEFT SIDE of RESISTOR is START WIRE, POSITIVE COIL WIRE????

Thanks......

What you must remember, is that with a "4 pin" ECU using a "2 pin" ballast,

THE BALLAST AND COIL are hooked up exactly as they were with points.

All you do is

1 Remove the points dist. wire from coil neg

2 ADD the power lead (light blue) to the key side of the ballast

3 Hook the black/ yel trac to the coil neg.

4 Plug the new dist. into it's plug.
Click to expand...
 
Key side is the run side of the ballast.

Unplug the wires from your ballast. Put the ign. Switch to the run position. Now get a test light and see which wire set that goes to the ballast has power. That is your key power side that is being referenced in the pic.
 
To find the "key" side of the ballast:

1. Disconnect both leads from the ballast resistor.

2. Turn the key to the run position.

3. Use test light and see which ballast wire has power. This is the key side of the ballast.

*note: Mark or note which side of the ballast the wires come from before removing, so you can put them back correctly when finished.
 
pishta said:
You can even put a second field into your old single field alternator
Click to expand...

Er…I've never seen this done reliably/durably on an original single-field alternator. Some aftermarket rear housings have provisions for either brush setup, but originals do not. If you've figured out a way to install a second isolated brush on an original '69 or earlier alternator, can you show us a few pics of your swap? Thanks.
 
All the help is appreciated.

I moved the regulator wire from the '+' coil side of the resistor to the 'key side' of the resistor. That solved the problem. I should not have touched the '+' side of the resistor.

You guys are a wealth of excellent info and I appreciate your help.

My cuda is alive again.
 
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