engine alignment problem

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motorhead446

motorhead446

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This might be long.
13 years ago i installed a 440/727 in my 70 duster for drag racing. I used elephant ears in the front, 73-76 A body trans mount in the back. Recently I started changing things back to a typical bigblock A body setup, schmacher mounts and headers, sure grip in place of spool ect.. I rarely have time to race so i figure i can get more seat time cruising.

The problem im having is that with the motor "hanging" in place by the ear mounts the K frame and shcumacher mounts to not line up. It appears as if the motor has to come forward 1.5 to 2 inches.

Here is what I think the problem is, and im looking for opinions or confirmation on my thinking. Im using an 67-72 K frame, 67-72 schumacher mount kit, but my transmission mount is an 73-76. I think the trans mount puts the motor/trans back approx the amount i need to go forward.

I dont have a 73-76 K frame and dont plan to buy one as I have put some time into the one im using. I dont want to switch to the 73-76 spool type mounts for the previous mentioned reason. I think my most resonable option is to switch to a early style trans mount and cross member. I hesitate to do this because i feel the later mount is a lot stronger design.

Any opinions or suggestions are welcomed.
 
...............the 67-72 and 73-76 trans mount put the engine in the same place no matter which mount u use on either body style....ur engine mounts r wrong somehow.....kim................
 
The mounts are on the correct side. @zanderzone, a friend with a duster checked his for me, based on his, mine is correct. The crossbolt is rear of the crossmember.
 
motorhead446 said:
The mounts are on the correct side. @zanderzone, a friend with a duster checked his for me, based on his, mine is correct. The crossbolt is rear of the crossmember.
Click to expand...
mine is facing the rear as well, 73 duster w/ 727. the motor mounts mount to the rear of the bosses..
 
Are you using a small block k frame? That would definitely cause your alignment issue. I have a Direct Connection big block k frame went to slide my small block in and that's where the trouble started. I called schumacker's, told em what I discovered, and he had the correct parts to my door in about 2 days. I'm running 5.9 magnum in place of a slant 6 w a 75 DC big block spool k w/ a 72 trans mount. Once schumacker sent me the mounts everything fit perfect. Check bigblockdart.com , they have very clear descriptions to identify your k frame, wether it be slant, small or big block.
 
funwithfuel said:
Are you using a small block k frame? That would definitely cause your alignment issue. I have a Direct Connection big block k frame went to slide my small block in and that's where the trouble started. I called schumacker's, told em what I discovered, and he had the correct parts to my door in about 2 days. I'm running 5.9 magnum in place of a slant 6 w a 75 DC big block spool k w/ a 72 trans mount. Once schumacker sent me the mounts everything fit perfect. Check bigblockdart.com , they have very clear descriptions to identify your k frame, wether it be slant, small or big block.
Click to expand...

It is a small block K frame. The schumacher kit is for 67-72 small block K frame to B/RB conversion.
 
Forgot to mention, I too have a 727 behind my 5.9 . My issue was that my dist and heads woulda been in the firewall and the engine sat way too low. My exhaust manifold was "in" the steering gearbox. The mounts I received brought the engine forward 1 1/2-2" and up about 1 1/2"
 
i would loosen up the tailshaft to mount bolts, bolt the mounts to the block, get it set on the k member where it needs to be without tightening any thing down , and see where you end up with trans mount. there is room for adjustment at the tailshaft mount
 
And you have your mounts on the correct side of the ears? I'd call schumacker's in the morning and describe the clearance issues your having. I was amazed at how knowledgeable the guy is. I mean he just knows his s*** .
 
Is your k clearanced for the oil pump? Do you got the left and right 100% correct. I'm not too knowledgeable on b/rb stuff, don't know if the mounts will bolt up on the wrong side. I'm looking at SCS Catalog and I could see that if they were backwards, on top of being on the wrong side of the ears that could easy set you back the amount you're describing.
 
I made the changes required for oil pump clearance. As of now it wont clear. I did not get to work on it today and im working a 3-11, 11-7 double right now and have to return tomorrow at 3pm so needless to say I wont be working on it until wednesday morning. The mounts were assembled and marked L and R. I installed rear of the cast lugs. The left insulator has an angled cut to clear so im assuming its on the correct side. Wednesday I will take a fresh look at everything. I will take the mounts off the block, and install K frame. Then start experimenting from there. Thanks for the input.
 
Ok, I worked on the car today. I removed the insulators, bolted the k frame to the car. the engine needs to come forward about 1/2 3/4 inch on passenger side, and about 1/2 inch on driver side. The bolt for the oil pressure spring is all the way into the hole for the insulator stud at this point. it is not seating into the notch made per instructions. Out of curiosity what is the offset of the engine side to side and the distance from the lower core support edge to the center of the "ring" that is cast into the lower part of the block?
 
The drivers side motor mount insulator should be almost up against the bolt for the oil pump spring. Set the motor in without the trans mount and see how ot sits. Here is the best picture I have right now on how it sits. You may want to copy the picture and zoom in on it.
 

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ill work on it tomorrow. im thinking ill drop the cross member and loosen the trans mount and see if it gives me the slack i need.
I really want the motor to fit with in the parameters of the schumacher mounts. Im planning on making my own shorty or mid length headers and i would like to know that they will fit as a lot of people use the schumachers for the conversion. I hope to make more headers after I have the first set sorted out if there is any interest in what I make.
 
motorhead446 said:
This might be long.
13 years ago i installed a 440/727 in my 70 duster for drag racing. I used elephant ears in the front, 73-76 A body trans mount in the back. Recently I started changing things back to a typical bigblock A body setup, schmacher mounts and headers, sure grip in place of spool ect.. I rarely have time to race so i figure i can get more seat time cruising.

The problem im having is that with the motor "hanging" in place by the ear mounts the K frame and shcumacher mounts to not line up. It appears as if the motor has to come forward 1.5 to 2 inches.

Here is what I think the problem is, and im looking for opinions or confirmation on my thinking. Im using an 67-72 K frame, 67-72 schumacher mount kit, but my transmission mount is an 73-76. I think the trans mount puts the motor/trans back approx the amount i need to go forward.

I dont have a 73-76 K frame and dont plan to buy one as I have put some time into the one im using. I dont want to switch to the 73-76 spool type mounts for the previous mentioned reason. I think my most resonable option is to switch to a early style trans mount and cross member. I hesitate to do this because i feel the later mount is a lot stronger design.

Any opinions or suggestions are welcomed.
Click to expand...

sounds like you do need the matching trans mount to me, but what do I know?
so you have a set of a body ears your not going to use? I might be willing to take them off your hands, if you want to get rid of `em. are they cage or frame mount? good luck w/ your problem, oh I use to run a hemi w/ that trans mount, anhad a freind w/ a mid 9 sec duster that ran a front motor plate w/ that mount--no problems.
bob
 
Today I loosened the trans mount and moved the mount at least a half inch back. I then moved motor/trans forward. the passenger side is lacking by about a 1/4 inch of going into the k frame. The driver side will go but the oil pump bolt still does not clear. I will drop kframe and trim the pass side hole and clearance the driver side for the oil pump. I think this is as close as it will get. I will take some pics after im fininshed. I have an earlier crossmember and i think there is a mount on it i can use for test fitting. I may give that a try.

@ famous bob, i have not decided yet what im doing with the ears.
 
@ robs 67, my plan is to make a shorty or mid length header in 1.75" tubing. I might even cheat a little and modify a B body shorty header.
 
68dodge said:
The drivers side motor mount insulator should be almost up against the bolt for the oil pump spring. Set the motor in without the trans mount and see how ot sits. Here is the best picture I have right now on how it sits. You may want to copy the picture and zoom in on it.
Click to expand...


Thats a damn fine looking engine sir! I like the polished intake!:prayer:
 
motorhead446 said:
This might be long.
13 years ago i installed a 440/727 in my 70 duster for drag racing. I used elephant ears in the front, 73-76 A body trans mount in the back. Recently I started changing things back to a typical bigblock A body setup, schmacher mounts and headers, sure grip in place of spool ect.. I rarely have time to race so i figure i can get more seat time cruising.

The problem im having is that with the motor "hanging" in place by the ear mounts the K frame and shcumacher mounts to not line up. It appears as if the motor has to come forward 1.5 to 2 inches.

Here is what I think the problem is, and im looking for opinions or confirmation on my thinking. Im using an 67-72 K frame, 67-72 schumacher mount kit, but my transmission mount is an 73-76. I think the trans mount puts the motor/trans back approx the amount i need to go forward.

I dont have a 73-76 K frame and dont plan to buy one as I have put some time into the one im using. I dont want to switch to the 73-76 spool type mounts for the previous mentioned reason. I think my most resonable option is to switch to a early style trans mount and cross member. I hesitate to do this because i feel the later mount is a lot stronger design.

Any opinions or suggestions are welcomed.
Click to expand...


Just been down this road myself. :banghead:

I suspect that the trans mount or the K member aren't what I thought. My car was originally a slant 6 car and someone has fitted a V8 K member but out of what, I don't know. I don't think it was an A body K member somehow. I also suspected a different transmission extension housing seeing as the trans was out of an Aussie C body car but I've since been told that there wouldn't be any difference. All trans should be the same. I see though that Schumachers have some of the different trans mounts available on their website.

In the end I got a pry bar and muscled the motor forward into position.

I would also recommend that you pull the K member and install/position the motor from underneath. There may also be enough clearance in the holes of the k member to give you enough play to set the motor in position. That coupled with loosening the motor mounts, trans mount and bit of muscle should get you there.
 
I finally got back to working on my engine mount issue. Im posting some pics. It seems like the insulator overhangs the perch, then the block mount overhangs the insulator. kinda staggered as you go back. I modified the passenger side block bracket by adding to the front of it to give it more of a footprint.
IMAG0283_zpsc89cf11b.jpg


IMAG0279_zpsf9d47a1d.jpg


with .400" of shim on the driver side, the engine is level side to side.
 
motorhead446 said:
I finally got back to working on my engine mount issue. Im posting some pics. It seems like the insulator overhangs the perch, then the block mount overhangs the insulator. kinda staggered as you go back. I modified the passenger side block bracket by adding to the front of it to give it more of a footprint.
IMAG0283_zpsc89cf11b.jpg


IMAG0279_zpsf9d47a1d.jpg


with .400" of shim on the driver side, the engine is level side to side.
Click to expand...
i had the same problem as you.gettin my engine to align right. pretty used shims to get it align right after all.
 
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