Engine and RPM's, Intake, Cam question?? Help??

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myasylum

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What is red line for a stock 360?

I have been wanting to get a Air Gap RPM intake... but the range is to 6,200.
I have also been wanting to get a cam to match that, and that would be a Voodoo 60403 that is 1800-6,200 RPMs. Now that intake and that cam seems like it should be a killer combo... but with the rest of the motor stock, would it even be capable of running at 6,200 rpms?
I did buy a Voodoo 60402 which is a step down because I figured better safe then sorry, but the one up higher sure seems like it would match the intake a whole lot better, and I could just return the 60402.

I will be getting a 2400-2800 stall, and I have 3.21 gears. I seem so close to getting where I want to be, but yet so far! URGH! :munky2:

Thanks guys! I need your opinions!
 

I never go above 6,000 rpms, lol, things start to vibrate more then they're supposed to...
 
As long as it's solid in the bottom end, you can turn it to 6500 without much issue. We have a stock bottom end 360 that turns 7500...

the 402 cam will work fine with the RPM intake and is a better choice for your convertor.

Upgrade the oil system. There are some things you can do with nothing more than a drill bit.
 
I have the RPM air gap for magnum heads, magnum heads with r/t springs and retainers and the summit k6901 cam which is a 276/286 cam and it runs REALLY good. My engine's kinda "loose" for lack of a better word (I might be putting bearings in soon as it only has 15 psi oil pressure at idle hot). I've been testing my MSD rev limiter (car's a 4-speed) so I have a 5000rpm chip in there. Probably going to step it up to a 5600rpm chip though.

The air gap makes pretty good torque. I wouldn't be too worried about the RPM range on that. As long as you don't have a stock or really really puny cam it will work great.
 
no, the rating is supposed to be the "powerband" of the camshaft. I'm setting lower ones than some would run just for saftey's sake with not quite so tight bearing clearance.
 
Red line, or in this case for any cam being used, will make max power a few hundred RPM's above the advertised RPM band. This will vary some on engine to engine, combo to combo. But I'll blanket it with a number of 500 RPM for all. It's a reasonable and safe number at a max level.
 
What is red line for a stock 360?

I have been wanting to get a Air Gap RPM intake... but the range is to 6,200.
I have also been wanting to get a cam to match that, and that would be a Voodoo 60403 that is 1800-6,200 RPMs. Now that intake and that cam seems like it should be a killer combo... but with the rest of the motor stock, would it even be capable of running at 6,200 rpms?
I did buy a Voodoo 60402 which is a step down because I figured better safe then sorry, but the one up higher sure seems like it would match the intake a whole lot better, and I could just return the 60402.

I will be getting a 2400-2800 stall, and I have 3.21 gears. I seem so close to getting where I want to be, but yet so far! URGH! :munky2:

Stock max for a 360 is 4500 IIRC.
The Air Gap has a "Best" operating range as Edelbrock lists it. And it's 6500 rpm up top. Those are good general guide lines for the intake. Just because it goes that high doesn't mean you have to match parts to meet it's max. It will perform excellent with p[arts not designed to go that high. But in that bracket of RPM's.

Getting a cam to match the intake only means that the cam should operate within the operating RPM of the intake. The intake operates in a 1500 - 6500 RPM band, use a cam that fits inside that window. Now you will have 2 parts to a combo that fit and work togther.

One of the things people misunderstand about the stock engine is it's abilty to change and operate outside of the stock RPM. The engine can be made to operate further. This is done by the change of the componets being used.

You have taken the steps to change the operating band allready with just the intake. It is less restictive and free flow than the stock unit.

Congrads, you just "UPed" the stock engines operating band by a few hundred RPM's.

The abilty to "UP" the engines RPM capabilty is controld by 2 things. Cam operating RPM and the springs that should be matched to the cams lift.
Stock valve springs have "X" amount of pressure and will not be able to control the cam and valve spring beyond a certain RPM. That is why you will read over and over again that springs should be upgraded with a new cam.
Valve control is everything to the engine when it comes to making power and RPM.

When you get a new cam, the cams operating RPM band is the engines new RPM band it will work in even if the rest of the engine is dead stock.

Getting a stall converter can be tricky biz. The cars weight and gear ratio also comes into play along with the size cam, intake to a degree and desired goal of the car. Street OR strip.
The converters stall should be higher than the cams starting RPM band point by atleast 500 RPM's. But this is combo dependent and best left for someone how understands this better than I.
(I prefur 4spds and leave stall converters to others so I don't make bad choices.)

One thing is left out of this. Compresion ratio. The bigger the cam, the more static ratio you want or the cm performs very poor doen low and lacks luster up top in the RPM band.

Your choice of a smaller cam in caution is allways a wise idea. You must be realistic on matters or suffer a mis matched poor performing combo.
Your gear ratio is a bit low IMO.
 
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