Engine and Trans removal together?

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palousedust

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I have a 74 duster w/318, headers and 3 speed manual floor trans that I would like to pull. Can engine and trans be pulled as one and even if they can, is that the easiest way to go about it? Any difficulties to be aware of? Thanks for any direction that can be given.
 
Once you do a remove and install from the bottom on a Mopar, you'll never do it any other way.
 
I wouldn't drop the K-frame unless I also needed to refurb the suspension and steering, and/or change T-bars. Otherwise, you will need a front-end alignment. Removing just the engine isn't too hard if you can get at the top bell-housing bolts. Might be easier if you unbolt the tranny x-member and drop it down a bit (never tried). Even an exta 1/2" would help a lot.
 
BillGrissom said:
I wouldn't drop the K-frame unless I also needed to refurb the suspension and steering, and/or change T-bars. Otherwise, you will need a front-end alignment. Removing just the engine isn't too hard if you can get at the top bell-housing bolts. Might be easier if you unbolt the tranny x-member and drop it down a bit (never tried). Even an exta 1/2" would help a lot.
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pop the lower ball joint from the spindle and unbolt it from whatever brakes you have no need for alignment
 
its extremely easy. i did mine with a big block, 727 and deep sump pans on both. hell i did it with headers installed already. i just pulled the steering column first. thats a 20 min job.
 
I am rebuilding the front suspension so bringing it out of the bottom is attractive. It would seem you would need a car lift to pull that one off.
 
I did it without a lift,had a few friends stop in and pick the front of the car up and set it over top.
 

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RustyRatRod said:
Once you do a remove and install from the bottom on a Mopar, you'll never do it any other way.
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Could not have said it any better!!!

Pulled from the top plenty before and always had to remove the transmission first in an A-body with BB.

Went out and back from the bottom this time fully assembled... Easiest thing I ever tried. Worth the price of an alignment IMO.

If you repaint the engine bay it even makes more sense to go the bottom way.
 
BillGrissom said:
I wouldn't drop the K-frame unless I also needed to refurb the suspension and steering, and/or change T-bars. Otherwise, you will need a front-end alignment. Removing just the engine isn't too hard if you can get at the top bell-housing bolts. Might be easier if you unbolt the tranny x-member and drop it down a bit (never tried). Even an exta 1/2" would help a lot.
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Why will the car need an alignmentif it is aligned properly to begin with? Can you be specific?
 
IF, IF, IIIIIIIIIFFFFFF I live long enough to see mine painted, at 66 I'm gonna try this for the very first time

I've pulled lots of engines. You can get them in / out the top, but I admit, the A bodies require a little more care
 
Your going to use an engine hoist, so there's your lift. Use some long steel bars bolted to the bumper mounts, make up a dolly and save yourself some time and aggro.


 
I do mine from the top almost every year now. Pull it all to do trans work as well. You can just tie or wire the headers to the inner fender, pull the distributer, front pulley , the starter, oil filter , pull the rad, drop the center link , you can get away with just the track bar but I found it easier to drop both the track bar and pitman arm and lay it on the ground with the tie rods still attached. I use an intake plate mounted to the carb mount and pick the front hole to get the weight towards the trans ... out she comes with trans and all . An extra hand is a bit easier if you don't want any scratches in the floor hump but it's easy alone after you do it once or twice..
 
Yep use your engine hoist to lift the front of the car that is how i put mine in and used a low trolley with wheels to slide the engine and box on the k frame in from the front had always done it from on top for the last 30 odd years never again so easy from below
 
RustyRatRod said:
Why will the car need an alignmentif it is aligned properly to begin with? Can you be specific?
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Never having removed from the bottom, I might have stepped in it on the alignment issue. It depends on what you remove. I was thinking most people unbolt the upper control arms, in which case it would need a front-end alignment. If you disconnect the upper ball joint (has come out easy for me), you should maintain alignment. If you disconnect the lower ball joint (much harder) as one suggested (and MR4V's photos), you are leaving the spindle with the body so need to also disconnect the tie rods, though that should still maintain alignment. BTW, the $7 1000 lb wood dollies at Harbor Freight work great.

Re lifting the body, I like to support it from the the frame rails with a lattice of 4x4 lumber. I have old fence posts I cut into shorter pieces. I feel a lot better crawling under the car like that, compared with supporting the frame on just jack stands that start looking skinny with the whole car floating on them. I also have a few jack stands under just in case, and I slide the wheels under the frame and put wood on top as a final support to give enough space to breath. We do get earthquakes here. I just keep adding rows of 4x4 as I jack it up further. Best to start by backing the rear onto ramps or jack and support the frame there first.
 
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