AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Or at least an IR gun
Engine overheating
- Thread starter wes beem
- Start date
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Mr Gorsky
I know words, I have the best words...
The thermostat was stuck and now it's getting HOT HOT HOT idling in the driveway (without a thermostat)......yeah, I'd look at getting a coolant test done.
its overheating so badly you cant not know it is....the radiator is bubbling and boiling perfusely the valve covers are so hot you cant even touch them and steam is coming out of the radiator and valve covers
first you need a heat gague to see what the temp is for sure your boiling rad could be boiling or it could be a result of a bad head gasget get a gague on it stop guessing and troubleshoot it properly .
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Key words in red.
The vcs will be too hot by 140 as most people cannot keep their hands on 140 for more than a second or three..
Steam will begin to come out of the open rad also as low as 180, so still not too hot.
Steam has no business coming out of the vc's. Firstly, it better be blow-by gasses, and secondly the PCV should be sucking those up! and thirdly if there is enough blow-by to overwhelm a good-working PCV system,then there is a serious internal problem going on.But if in fact the oil is vaporizing, then the engine is seriously HOT cuz that don't start to happen until 230*F or more. But the PCV should still be sucking it up.
But the key words in red tell an honest story, cuz water don't boil until it hits 212*F at "normal" atmospheric pressure. And if it's boiling with a new cap on,and puking out the overflow, well then there is a problem for sure. But if it's 50/50 coolant and steaming, IDK. I forget stuff.
Puking out the overflow, by itself may not be a problem, if too little room was provided for expansion during the refill. But puking AND boiling is a problem.
There are two times when you don't need a temperature gauge to tell the temp of water and they are ;at 212*F and at 32*F, Cuz the water don't lie. And if your cooking french fries, the oil boils at around 250. So when you see it boil, dump the taters in. When it comes back up to boiling,and the fries turn golden brown, the taters are ready to go. No gauge required. And if the paint is peeling off your cardoor, you are too close to the campfire, no gauge required. And if your pee freezes before it hits the ground, you better be bundled up cuz it's cold enough outside to kill you in minutes. And......if your dumb enough to have your tongue stuck on the pump-handle, your big brother will be smart enough to pee on your tongue and get you loose, and you will love him for it.
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So, the radiator IS Junk, its leaking pretty badly underneath. Now, My current clutch fan blades are all dented up and bent, and i have no clue if the clutch itself is good. I was looking at aluminum Champion radiators and i found one that comes with dual electric fans for slightly more than jegs charges just for the bare radiator itself. Would it be worth it to use the dual electrics fans and run a relay? or buy a new clutch fan blade and clutch and keep the belt driven fan?
22 Inch Core Early Mopar All Aluminum 3 Row KR Champion Radiator Fan Combo | eBay
22 Inch Core Early Mopar All Aluminum 3 Row KR Champion Radiator Fan Combo | eBay
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I'd keep the belt driven fan, change to a high flow Milodon water pump and get a 2 core radiator with the biggest cores you can. A radiator with 2 one inch cores will cool better than a 3 core with .75 inch cores. Don't buy the hype.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
I TOTALLY agree. I tell people that all the time. I use mine so much, I don't know how I ever did without one.
Then why are you even runnin this POS? FIX somethin on the damn thing so you KNOW what you have. This is stupidness. Get a good WORKING temp gauge before you go any further. Do you want to destroy your engine? Is this a complete toy to you? No fan shroud, crappy clutch fan probably wore out, looped heater hose, no thermostat and on and on. Man, you're battin a thousand.
It is incomplete. It has no business even being run. Get gauges fixed.
Get a good radiator and SHROUD...
Electric fans are not as efficient as a good mechanical fan and SHROUD....
A good shroud will keep the air flow going through the radiator at idle/not moving, otherwise the air can go around the radiator and not help cool through the fins...
Electric fans are not as efficient as a good mechanical fan and SHROUD....
A good shroud will keep the air flow going through the radiator at idle/not moving, otherwise the air can go around the radiator and not help cool through the fins...
So.leaking rad aside,i never saw a single word regarding flow. Engine COLD open rad cap and start engine. LOOK into rad and see if water is moving. The problem you describe could be a bad water pump.
No ****? Its incomplete? i didn't know that. I'm actively trying to fix problems as they arise, and sorry not everyone is a mechanic and we have to ask questions about stuff we don't know. I have to be able to get the car from the back yard to the garrage to work on it so I cant just leave it sitting around not getting fixed just because it has alot of work that needs done. Priorities. I dont care about idiot lights on the dash when i have problems right in front of me that have to be fixed to even be able to work on the car.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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The car is 47 years old. The engine is 19.
K. Then rad is next.
If head gaskets are bad,it would be bubbling in rad right off the getgo.
If head gaskets are bad,it would be bubbling in rad right off the getgo.
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
Exactly everyone isnt a mechanic, so why do you speculate its over heating if you have no solid numbers to prove that it is?
So a gauge is a idiot light? Really?
Oh im sorry i actually like to know my engine temp, oil pressure, voltage and rpm.
you speculate that the engine is over heating because its getting hot? Hello there is combustion going on, the whole engine is going to be hot. Why keep guessing? You can pick up a mechanical temp gauge for cheap. Then you know exactly how hot the engine is getting. Why keep pussyfooting around? Buy a temp gauge, radiator, new fan clutch thermostat and water pump and be done.
Some things just cant be fixed as they arise. If you have issues in more than one place in the same system its kind of pointless on replacing one part and hoping its the fix.
Its like needing new brake pads and rotors and you only put new pads on it because you dont want to replace the rotors and wonder why it wont stop.
You can get a stock replacement radiator for under 300. New fan clutch 30-50, water pump less than 50. Thermostat less than 10 bucks, rad cap for less than 10. Used shroud for around 100.
So for around 500 dollars you can be done instead of guessing on what is wrong, you already know the whole system is wrong, leaking rad, no thermostat, possible bad clutch, no shroud.
Stay away from electric fan garbage.
Invest in redoing the cooling system not just replacing it with a junk setup.
Also for most instances i would advise not to buy engine critical parts off of ebay. There is a huge issue with inferior parts that claim to be name brand flooding the ebay market. Most of your standard replacement parts can be bought at your local parts store and most parts have a lifetime warranty.
If your going to buy name brand parts stick with summit, jegs or other reputable distributor of racing parts.
That link you posted is the wrong radiator anyway, that is for 69 and earlier where the water pump outlet is on the drivers side
Rad: $282
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...11357/radiator/433526/4583189/1970/dodge/dart
Fan clutch: $33
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...12866/fan-clutch/2706/4581281/1970/dodge/dart
Water pump: $37
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...368/water-pump/cp7103/4526095/1970/dodge/dart
Rad cap: $6
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...p/7616/4435988/1970/dodge/dart?q=Radiator+cap
Tstat: $6 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...olant-thermostat/3478/4436173/1970/dodge/dart
Temp gauge: $17
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...emperature-gauge/7232/4299455/1970/dodge/dart
So for around 380 dollars plus coolant and tax you can replace all the major components in the cooling system besides the shroud and install a temp gauge
No one is trying to give you a hard time but your not listening to the advice, these guys have many years expirience. Its like speculating you have no oil pressure but you dont have a oil pressure gauge, how do you know what is happening in the engine if you have no data on the cooling and oiling system!
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All the above parts are wear parts. So replacing them is a pay me now or pay me later kind of thing. Water pump with an old belt? Been there done that.
I hope you solve your issue,with the advice given it would be hard not to.
I hope you solve your issue,with the advice given it would be hard not to.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This is actually helpful. Telling me my car is a piece of **** and that i'm stupid and shouldn't even have it does not. Thanks I'm going to replace all that stuff.
The car is in the condition it was in when i bought it. Im not the one who installed all this crap and cobbled everything up. I'm just trying to un-cobble everything as i go, i bought the car for 3000$ and ive got about 8000$ in it right now and litterally every single mechanical and wiring thing in the entire car was cobbled up by whoever worked on this thing last, most of the nuts and bolts had never even seen a wrench, everything was HAND tight... So yeah i have ALOT of questions about ALOT of different things because i dont know whats right and whats not and im still trying to learn all this stuff. Ive spent many hours online reading conflicting articles about every single aspect of mechanical work on these cars so its alot of garbage to sift through.
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
1st off Did i say it was a pos? Did i call you stupid? I hope you werent quoting me with that comment in mind. You said you werent a mechanic we or at least i was trying to tell you what would be wise to do. Having no instruments functioning is not a wise decision but its not my car so it doesnt matter to me. The three basic gauges you should have regardless of vehicle value or condition is a oil press, water temp and volt gauge. We understand not everyone is expirienced in mechanical aspects but you cant just speculate a issue without having some type of data. Diagnosing a cooling issue isnt the same as trouble shooting a wheel bearing, oil leak or even fuel issue where you basically dont use any data measuring tools (in most cases). When trouble shooting a cooling issue a gauge is a must to verify what changes you make fix your problem.
When you recieve something that was put together unknown and not correctly especially with old or missing parts, its best to do it the right way to eliminate the variables and to ensure a proper functioning cooling system for your engine.
Dont get discouraged, it may seem like some of these guys are being rough but they do it more to make a point. Often a bit of sarcasm or tough love can be mistaken for a insult.
When you recieve something that was put together unknown and not correctly especially with old or missing parts, its best to do it the right way to eliminate the variables and to ensure a proper functioning cooling system for your engine.
Dont get discouraged, it may seem like some of these guys are being rough but they do it more to make a point. Often a bit of sarcasm or tough love can be mistaken for a insult.
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71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
Ok lol just checking. I thought i was being fairly nice but you never know some people take the way something is worded out of context
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
Thanks, just remeber whoever is going to be doing the work to verify the parts are correct for your application, the depth of the new fan clutch needs to be verified as to not interfere with the radiator. Also check to make sure the water pump and tstat is correct as well. It looks as though yours is a standard 318 setup so the above parts should fit perfectly
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