Engine shop woes

[straightlinespeed]

I'm curious about the heads that came on my new engine. I was told I was getting a set of 915 J heads with the large valves. I pick up the engine after a long months wait. I uncrate and unwrap it only to find out it has 974 heads. I know they are a mid 70's head but are they comparable to the 915 j heads? Another thing we noticed, is that the lifters were not soaked in oil or have any sort of assembly lube and also were they touch the cam is dry as a bone. The cam bearings have the lube. I thought they are suppose to soak the lifters in oil to prime them and coat the entire cam?

Something else that bugs me is the shop would not provide me any info other than the cam that I specified I wanted. I have no idea what pistons, valve springs, etc... are in this thing. I also had some other issues with the shop but thought it was a fluke since this place was recommended and is so well known where I live. I was told that the engine would be complete to me with in 2 weeks at the very latest, It took a month. I did work out a deal with them on paying cash but still paid 2650 and I think I just paid for a stock 75 360 with a cam upgrade. It was suppose to be a mild built engine with a 9:1 comprssion and run on high octane pump gas. Did I get what I asked/ paid for? Did they assemble it correctly?

Rant over.........I think!!!!

 

[70aarcuda]

as far as the lifter you don't want the lifters pumped up and full of oil went you go to start the engine...a pumped up lifter can hold the valve off the seat during initial start up..they will fill with oil as soon as the oil pressure gets there...you want some kind of moly lube on the camshaft ..or on the base of the lifters....

you want the oil pumped primed and ready to go...

 

[player1up]

Scares me that they won't tell you what was done...I mean what EXACTLY
did you pay for? Surely not 2650 for a hot tank and a cam swap...

 

[Bulldozer]

as far as the lifter you don't want the lifters pumped up and full of oil went you go to start the engine...a pumped up lifter can hold the valve off the seat during initial start up..they will fill with oil as soon as the oil pressure gets there...you want some kind of moly lube on the camshaft ..or on the base of the lifters....

you want the oil pumped primed and ready to go...

exactly this....^^^^

I would not, have never, fired off a new engine without the cam and lifters covered in moly lube. maybe it doesn't matter, but I would never do it.
just another reason I assemble all my own stuff. hopefully they used assembly lube on the bottom end

 

[67Dart273]

What is the cheapest way out of this? Will they buy your core? Have you PAID them this money?

The thing might run "fine" but that doesn't mean you got your money's worth. On the other hand in this day and age, 2.6K "ain't much" of an engine if you are paying all labor and any other costs.

 

[pettybludart]

Even though you paid cash,I would ask for some type of bill stating all internals used including cam specs.This will be for your records.

 

[Mad Dart]

I bet they used stock everything. Pistons,Crank and Rods. Probably did Rings Bearings and a Cam Swap. Pull a spark plug and bring any of the pistons to top dead center. Shine a light and see what you got. If they aren't shiny then they are not new pistons. Sux cause you don't even know what compression the motor really is. It could be 7.8:1 for all you know. Damn them.

 

[straightlinespeed]

exactly this....^^^^

I would not, have never, fired off a new engine without the cam and lifters covered in moly lube. maybe it doesn't matter, but I would never do it.
just another reason I assemble all my own stuff. hopefully they used assembly lube on the bottom end

That is the thing, only the cam bearings are covered in assembly lube. The the lifters and lobes are dry as a bone. From what I glanced at the lower end the crank does have the lube on it.

Although wont the engine rattle beyond belief when there is no oil in the lifters? I understand they will fill up once the engine is running but I've always been told to let them soak in oil for a good day to get them primed?!?!

What is the cheapest way out of this? Will they buy your core? Have you PAID them this money?

The thing might run "fine" but that doesn't mean you got your money's worth. On the other hand in this day and age, 2.6K "ain't much" of an engine if you are paying all labor and any other costs.

They have my original core and yes I've already paid for and picked up the engine. It wasnt until I drove 3 hours to where the car is and uncrated the engin that I realized it was not what we discussed. The engine cost $3k, I talked them down to $2650 if I paid cash.

Here is another story to that. The engine started off costing me around $2300. They could not find a set of good heads in the shop to use. After 2 weeks they finally called and said that they could buy a set of 915 heads brand new for $400 thru there supplier. I told them to go ahead and do it. So that bumped it up to $2700. Then I had the flexplate issue and it seemed they did not know how to balance a neutral balance torque converter. I told them about the flexplate made for it by B&M. Of course this was another cost to me. Now its at $2800. Being that they didnt know seem to know about that I was nervous about the flywheel. I called again and made sure that they knew there is a specific flywheel. They said "yep we have it". When I went to pick it up low and behold another charger for a new flywheel $100, now Im at $2900. Add in all the taxes and what not Im over $3k.

I questioned them on the flywheel and they said they just decided to order a new one. I never gave them that go ahead! Ticked me off!

Even though you paid cash,I would ask for some type of bill stating all internals used including cam specs.This will be for your records.

Totally agree! When I asked about the components the guy just said we dont have any info except for the came part #.

I bet they used stock everything. Pistons,Crank and Rods. Probably did Rings Bearings and a Cam Swap. Pull a spark plug and bring any of the pistons to top dead center. Shine a light and see what you got. If they aren't shiny then they are not new pistons. Sux cause you don't even know what compression the motor really is. It could be 7.8:1 for all you know. Damn them.

The deal was to use a 360 core they had and a stock 360 crank and rods. It did say on the receipt that they bored it .060 over. Seems extreme, Im not sure the limits on the block but it may be ok? Thoughts? As for the crank its .010/.010 on the mains and rods.

I did shine a light into the cylinders and the pistons appear to be clean, but it does look like they may have hot tanked a set of originals. Also when I discussed building the engine, they insisted they used brand new hypereutectic pistons. These look like a rough casting and not smooth on the top. Like these View attachment psitons.JPG

I have no idea of the compression and I did ask them and they said it would be about 9:1 No idea if they just pulled that from there rear or what.

Now for the best part and the reason the engine is back home with me and being brought back to this shop Monday morning. So I decided this morning to take a good look over to try and see what else they may have skipped on. So those brand new heads I told you about.... well I didnt think they were brand new looking so on closer inspection I spot 2 heli-coils in one of the heads. Now Im just down right pissed off at this so called well known engine company! Im not entirely sure how to fight it since nothing was in writing except for what I was looking for in the engine. All decisions were made over the phone.

I going to tell them to take the engine and give me my money back, but I doubt they will go for that! Even though they give a 3 year warranty I dont trust them and I dont want to deal with them anymore. UGH!!! This is turning into such a nightmare!

 

[OldmanRick]

I'm not quite sure what to make of all this........They may have a good rep as a "rebuilder" shop, but as performance builders, it's questionable. I've used many different shops dating back to the mid 70's......Some were great, some not so great. But with that said, I got detailed paperwork on everything they did from all of them. I really hope this works out for you. The amount spent is irrelevant in my opinion, and a decent shop should give you what you paid for and the documentation to prove it.

 

[straightlinespeed]

I'm not quite sure what to make of all this........They may have a good rep as a "rebuilder" shop, but as performance builders, it's questionable. I've used many different shops dating back to the mid 70's......Some were great, some not so great. But with that said, I got detailed paperwork on everything they did from all of them. I really hope this works out for you. The amount spent is irrelevant in my opinion, and a decent shop should give you what you paid for and the documentation to prove it.

Thank you Sir! I totally agree!!!

 

[moper]

I'm not quite sure what to make of all this........They may have a good rep as a "rebuilder" shop, but as performance builders, it's questionable. I've used many different shops dating back to the mid 70's......Some were great, some not so great. But with that said, I got detailed paperwork on everything they did from all of them. I really hope this works out for you. The amount spent is irrelevant in my opinion, and a decent shop should give you what you paid for and the documentation to prove it.

x2. Except I started in the 80s. I'm sure there's two sides to this, but in regard to yours - if you're not satisfied go and try to get your money back. If you can't then you'll have to decide on the next step. But it sounds like you got a $2700 stock build - which seems kind of steep IMO for what was delivered. I'll also add - helicoils are a valid repair so I would'nt beat them up for it especially if they had to buy heads from another supplier.

 

[cosgig]

Even in the darkest of back alley shops, they still get a receipt for items purchased, dont they?? And, arent repair shops required by law to provide proof of the items installed, and more importantly, produce the used items replaced for you to take home, or at least inspect and decide what to do with them. I know its a law here in Michigan that they slap the used parts on the counter and give you the receipt for the corresponding new item!!

Now, did they bore the engine?? A measurement would surely discover the facts on this, and of course they would not be able to use the original pistons in a bore that is .060" over, so there must have been a purchase on this...if the bores are actyually .060" over!! A fact finding mission on this should be done prior to returning to the shop!!

Evidence of correspondence is key here, and proof of requests in emails may be your best friend here...they are legal in court. If you can prove that they said it was .060" over and it's not, theres a case here. If you can prove that they said you were getting "915" heads and they are "942"'s, you have a case there too. Anything you can come up with that has correspondence to back it up will help your case here, and a mountain of evidence is much harder for a business to ignore than just a couple things!!

Hope they make it right by you and stand behind their work...they should be able to produce receipts at least!! Geof

 

[DaveBonds]

974 and 915 J heads are both basic open chamber heads and should operate the same. "new" is often thrown around in parts suppliers between actually being new and being remanufactured. There are no $400 heads with valves, new, so that's no surprise. Don't worry about the heli-coils. That's common as well.

You do not want to soak or fill new hydraulic lifters. You can soak dirty ones in solivent to clean older ones if they stick, but even then, after reassembling them or cleaning them, you only use a light amount of oil.

Soaking or pumping up hydraulic lifters is how you kiss pistons and bend valves. Hydraulic lifters run with zero lash. They are designed to adjust distance between cam and rocker, where adjustable rockers and solid lifters were used to adjust lash on other types. If you fill the lifters full of oil, you are removing the range of operation from where it will self adjust to 100% full tight adjustment.

Think of them like you would automatic adjusters on a drum brake. You wouldn't adjust the threads on them completely out and expect the brakes not to be fully engaged. It's no different with oil in a lifter.

Assembly lube or oil on the bearings is fine. The lobes on the cam AND lifters need high pressure zinc phosphate assembly lube on them. Bring it to their attention. If they say it's fine, tell them flat out that they are incorrect and that you paid to have presence of their knowledge, and that you shouldn't have to bring basic assembly proceedures to their attention.

What else is dry? Did they put the oil pan or timing cover on? Did they balance the crank? You need a receipt for that, too, provided from the outsourced balancer or ask to see their balancer. If it was balanced, a good balancer will usually number the connecting rod and it's main cap and you will see fresh grinding on the connecting rod cap, where weight was removed. You may also see moly slugs or fresh drilling on the crank. You should at least see fresh sanding/grinding on the main cap bottom or sides where the connecting rod and cap meet.

Just so you know what they are doing and what to look for -

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3ZNWB4Z18M"]Engine Parts Balancing - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvgVI2PTKzI"]Crankshaft Balancing 1 - YouTube[/ame]

You are right in doubting their ability to do the job right, if they don't know any better than to put high pressure assembly grease on the cam and lifter friction surfaces.

Here is what I would do in your position;

I would get receipts. Without a parts receipt with corresponding parts purchase dates, tell them that you want proof of the job you paid for and without it, you need some sort of proof shown to you.

Tell them that you CAN NOT tune the entire drivetrain of the car properly, without knowing what the cam specifications are, and that it can have an adverse effect on the entire driveline, which is true.

Tell them that even if you knew what kind of camshaft was installed, you don't know if the other engine values will have clearance for it. Valve notching in the piston, how far down in the cylinder the piston sits at true top dead center, valve spring crush clearance, valve spring retainer to valve stem seal clearance ALL depend on what the lift, duration and installation degree advance numbers are.

If they say it's ok, at that point I'd use the opportunity to bring up the dry cam lobes.

If they deny the problem, I would tell them to contact the camshaft manufacturer and get it straight from them, because I already know they are wrong, by not putting anything on it.

If they admit that it is incorrect, I would make them fix it and give specification numbers for the cam. If they can't provide specs on the cam, I would make them pay for one that they can provide specifications on and install it as per manufacturer's recommendation.

As far as the piston goes, I'm confused as to how you are getting a 4.000" reused piston on a 4.060" bore? .060" is on the tail end of allowance for an overbore. It is the max, which is fine, but you won't be able to do anything else with the block later in life, except for sleeving it, should it ever need done agan. Not their concern, per se, but definitely something to think about.

If you paid them to assemble the engine correctly, it's their job to do it right and provide you with a list, down to the part number, of what they installed, exactly.

 

[67cudafb]

Basicly you should had a written contract with them spelling out just what you expected. Since you paid for it in cash it is yours now. You pretty much have to deal with it. If it were me I would buy a top end gasket kit and pull the heads and check piston to deck and lube lifters. Be sure to use a drill on oil pump to make sure you have good pressure and they didn't leave plugs out of oil galley. Good luck.

 

[Hersbird]

I stinks you should have to even consider pulling it apart after paying all that money to have it put together for you. If you wanted to do the assembly yourself then you wouldn't have had to pay anywhere near that much for the motor. I can see where a short block is a good idea compared to a long block when the shop isn't clear on what they are doing. Is there any warranty on the motor? If there is maybe just get it in and running and then if there is an issue they will have to re-do it. You could lube the lifters by just pulling the rocker shafts and pushrods without pulling the heads, but it would be nice to see if the pistons are zero decked or down in the holes. My 360 build used stock oversized pistons and they are down the hole a bit. That is why I used the thin headgasket and magnum heads to get the compression up some.
I feel for you man, hopefully a polite call can produce some documentation and clarity. Even if you can just get the part numbers the people here will be able to figure out what it is you have.

 

[straightlinespeed]

But it sounds like you got a $2700 stock build - which seems kind of steep IMO for what was delivered. I'll also add - helicoils are a valid repair so I would'nt beat them up for it especially if they had to buy heads from another supplier.

So far it kind of seems that exact same to me also. The reason Im upset about the helicoils is because they told me they had a line on a set of new 915 heads. When I saw the 974's with helicoils that is what upsets me. They charged a extra $400 for that.

Even in the darkest of back alley shops, they still get a receipt for items purchased, dont they?? And, arent repair shops required by law to provide proof of the items installed, and more importantly, produce the used items replaced for you to take home, or at least inspect and decide what to do with them. I know its a law here in Michigan that they slap the used parts on the counter and give you the receipt for the corresponding new item!!

Evidence of correspondence is key here, and proof of requests in emails may be your best friend here...they are legal in court. If you can prove that they said it was .060" over and it's not, theres a case here. If you can prove that they said you were getting "915" heads and they are "942"'s, you have a case there too. Anything you can come up with that has correspondence to back it up will help your case here, and a mountain of evidence is much harder for a business to ignore than just a couple things!!

Hope they make it right by you and stand behind their work...they should be able to produce receipts at least!! Geof

I dont believe in MN they have to provide you with the used parts, but in this case there shouldnt be any, except for the block, crank and rods, which are installed.

As for the emails, there are none. It was all done over the phone except for the initial visit, where they wrote down exactly what I was looking for. I can see this turning into a he said/she said thing.

974 and 915 J heads are both basic open chamber heads and should operate the same. "new" is often thrown around in parts suppliers between actually being new and being remanufactured. There are no $400 heads with valves, new, so that's no surprise. Don't worry about the heli-coils. That's common as well.

Assembly lube or oil on the bearings is fine. The lobes on the cam AND lifters need high pressure zinc phosphate assembly lube on them. Bring it to their attention. If they say it's fine, tell them flat out that they are incorrect and that you paid to have presence of their knowledge, and that you shouldn't have to bring basic assembly proceedures to their attention.

What else is dry? Did they put the oil pan or timing cover on? Did they balance the crank? You need a receipt for that, too, provided from the outsourced balancer or ask to see their balancer. If it was balanced, a good balancer will usually number the connecting rod and it's main cap and you will see fresh grinding on the connecting rod cap, where weight was removed. You may also see moly slugs or fresh drilling on the crank. You should at least see fresh sanding/grinding on the main cap bottom or sides where the connecting rod and cap meet.

Here is what I would do in your position;

I would get receipts. Without a parts receipt with corresponding parts purchase dates, tell them that you want proof of the job you paid for and without it, you need some sort of proof shown to you.

Tell them that you CAN NOT tune the entire drivetrain of the car properly, without knowing what the cam specifications are, and that it can have an adverse effect on the entire driveline, which is true.

Tell them that even if you knew what kind of camshaft was installed, you don't know if the other engine values will have clearance for it. Valve notching in the piston, how far down in the cylinder the piston sits at true top dead center, valve spring crush clearance, valve spring retainer to valve stem seal clearance ALL depend on what the lift, duration and installation degree advance numbers are.

If they say it's ok, at that point I'd use the opportunity to bring up the dry cam lobes.

If they deny the problem, I would tell them to contact the camshaft manufacturer and get it straight from them, because I already know they are wrong, by not putting anything on it.

If they admit that it is incorrect, I would make them fix it and give specification numbers for the cam. If they can't provide specs on the cam, I would make them pay for one that they can provide specifications on and install it as per manufacturer's recommendation.

As far as the piston goes, I'm confused as to how you are getting a 4.000" reused piston on a 4.060" bore? .060" is on the tail end of allowance for an overbore. It is the max, which is fine, but you won't be able to do anything else with the block later in life, except for sleeving it, should it ever need done agan. Not their concern, per se, but definitely something to think about.

If you paid them to assemble the engine correctly, it's their job to do it right and provide you with a list, down to the part number, of what they installed, exactly.

No the $400 they quoted me for the 915 heads where bare heads, they said they still had build them.

I will get some pics up shortly of the issues that Im talking about with the dry cam and lifters. No they did not install the oil pan or any other accessories. The receipt does say balancing and it also has the cam part number from where they bought it but no specs. They said they matched the springs to the cam, but no proof of that either.

I will look the best I can for balancing marks, but I cant really get to the bottom of the engine. Thanks for giving me some heads up on what to point out to them! I did ask for the engine info when I picked it up and he just pointed out the stuff on the receipt but couldnt tell me anything else. All while we are talking about this I hear a very high horsepower engine being fired. Im sure they gave specs to that person! I thought .060 was the max, and yes I've thought about that being the end of its life. Im a bit worried about that but Im sure the end of that engines life is a long ways off. Good point on the piston sizing for that bore. I just dont believe that they installed what they told me they where going to.

Basicly you should had a written contract with them spelling out just what you expected. Since you paid for it in cash it is yours now. You pretty much have to deal with it. If it were me I would buy a top end gasket kit and pull the heads and check piston to deck and lube lifters. Be sure to use a drill on oil pump to make sure you have good pressure and they didn't leave plugs out of oil galley. Good luck.

I dont exactly agree with the cash comment. Just because I could pay for it in cash doesnt mean Im stuck with it. Last time I checked cash is legal tender and he wrote on my receipt that I paid cash. If I paid with a credit card, check or the way I paid, cash, it is still paid in full for and it should have been built correctly! I shouldnt have to tear down a brand new motor to check there work. Im thinking of asking them to tear it down in front of me to show me everything. They can pay for a gasket kit as far as Im concerned.

I stinks you should have to even consider pulling it apart after paying all that money to have it put together for you. If you wanted to do the assembly yourself then you wouldn't have had to pay anywhere near that much for the motor. I can see where a short block is a good idea compared to a long block when the shop isn't clear on what they are doing. Is there any warranty on the motor? If there is maybe just get it in and running and then if there is an issue they will have to re-do it. You could lube the lifters by just pulling the rocker shafts and pushrods without pulling the heads, but it would be nice to see if the pistons are zero decked or down in the holes. My 360 build used stock oversized pistons and they are down the hole a bit. That is why I used the thin headgasket and magnum heads to get the compression up some.
I feel for you man, hopefully a polite call can produce some documentation and clarity. Even if you can just get the part numbers the people here will be able to figure out what it is you have.

Yes there is a 3 year warranty on the engine. I did ask and they did not zero deck it. Just a standard milling. I will be going in there with a polite attitude, it doesnt pay to go in pissed off. I dont believe you get anywhere that way. I just want what I paid for and all the specs and part numbers of everything installed. Like stated, that is important to tuning and future repairs or what not.

 

[TrailBeast]

And they will refuse to give it to you because they don't have the information.
And they don't have the information because they didn't do what you asked for. (Or they would have the info)

EXAMPLE:
If I was asked to take a nut off of something, and somone asked me what size the nut was that I took off and I couldn't answer that question,,,,It would be because I didn't take it off.

Make sense?

 

[straightlinespeed]

Yes that does make sense but it doesn't mean they can get it. They must have receipts somewhere because I'm sure they don't stock everything. If they can't get it I'm going to ask them to tear it down and get me all that info. Which I'm sure they won't!

On a side note I can't see any sort of grind or drill marks on the rotating assembly. Of course I can't see under it that well but I will be asking them to show me where they balanced since bit is something I paid for.

 

[67cudafb]

What I meant about is that it turns into a fight and you paid cash you may need a lawyer. Where with credit card you can get card company involved. Your right that you shouldn't have to pull it apart and since it has 3 year warranty put it in the car and crank it up if it wipes a cam take it back. I don't like installing an engine more then once. Forty years ago I had a 340 in my 69 dart gts that a piston pin come out and score the cylinder wall. Pulled engine and took it to Russ Barfield in hollywood fl who had a great rep in the 70's. I let them build engine for me put it back in car and broke it in carefully and didn't get 5,000 miles on it and another pin came out wiped out another cylinder and they would not stand behind it because it was a performance build. I pay a machine shop to do just that machine and I build my on and check everything myself. If engine builder screws up then its on me. Good luck with your engine hope you get it worked out with out a lawyer.

 

[OldmanRick]

I will be going in there with a polite attitude, it doesnt pay to go in pissed off. I dont believe you get anywhere that way. I just want what I paid for and all the specs and part numbers of everything installed. Like stated, that is important to tuning and future repairs or what not.

If at all possible, try and talk with the person/persons that actually did the work. Sounds like there may be a counter/office go between that you've been communicating with. I know with most of the good shops i dealt with, the guys were proud of their work and actually enjoyed explaining what they did, showing their knowledge and their thoughts about the build. Some would even track me down when the saw me picking up stuff, just to shoot the **** about what I was working on. Hopefully some there are the same. I really liked bringing my stuff to places like that.

 

[sireland67]

You got a 3yr warrenty, put it in and fire it up.
$2600 is cheaper than Jasper rebuilds that NAPA sells.
As far as the balance issue, they may of have to drill holes in the crank instead of adding weight.
I really think you are worring over nothing, but I would still want the specs on the motor.
I bet that motor will fire right up and run with no issues.

 

[Bad Sport]

You got a 3yr warrenty, put it in and fire it up.
$2600 is cheaper than Jasper rebuilds that NAPA sells.
As far as the balance issue, they may of have to drill holes in the crank instead of adding weight.
I really think you are worring over nothing, but I would still want the specs on the motor.
I bet that motor will fire right up and run with no issues.

I'd be a little concerned with a shop that installed a new cam and lifters with NO lube. What else did/didn't they do?

 

[straightlinespeed]

You got a 3yr warrenty, put it in and fire it up.
$2600 is cheaper than Jasper rebuilds that NAPA sells.
As far as the balance issue, they may of have to drill holes in the crank instead of adding weight.
I really think you are worring over nothing, but I would still want the specs on the motor.
I bet that motor will fire right up and run with no issues.

I know its cheaper but its still the principal, they charged a extra $400 for one, that were suppose to be a set of new 915 heads. Thats fine if they dont want to give them to me then give me the $400 back. Also charging for a harmonic balancer when they said they had one, but decided to buy a new one? I paid for balancing, the flexplate and balancer should have been part of that. Im sure it will start right up, I just want a damn good explanation!

 

[clutch]

I know its cheaper but its still the principal, they charged a extra $400 for one, that were suppose to be a set of new 915 heads. Thats fine if they dont want to give them to me then give me the $400 back. Also charging for a harmonic balancer when they said they had one, but decided to buy a new one? I paid for balancing, the flexplate and balancer should have been part of that. Im sure it will start right up, I just want a damn good explanation!

I have had alot of machine shop built motors and everyone of them only got the warranty if the shop assembles the motor.
So if you take it apart you probably will not only lose your warranty but you will probably own it also.

The last motor I had built was in 2007
I supplied a 1971 tired 360 block and a pair of j-heads.
They rebuilt everything and included a 2 year warranty for $2,800
The motor was 9.1 and dyno'd at 380 hp
Hope this works out it is suppose to be an exiting time for you.

 

[straightlinespeed]

I'd be a little concerned with a shop that installed a new cam and lifters with NO lube. What else did/didn't they do?

Exactly, here are the pics!

I remember a conversation about the timing being set at 0* and not 180*. They said mine is set at 0* dots facing each other. They are painted white. Also they do have assembly lube on the crank which is the white stuff behind the gear.
View attachment timing.jpg

Here is a pic of the helicoil in one of the locations. The other one is right next to it in the pic. Myself I have never been fond of them because they can work themselves out. If they refund my $400 I will be found of the two that are in these heads.
View attachment helicoil'.jpg

The rockers have plenty of lube and a pic of the springs with disc. What is the blue disc that are under the spring, its on all of the intake valves.
View attachment valves.jpgView attachment valves1.jpg

And here are the lifters and cam, you can see the lube on the cam bearing but the lifters and lobes nothing!
View attachment lifters.jpg