Evans Coolant Temps

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charger426 said:
Where are you guy finding different sizes water pump pullies? I tried the usually places, Mancini, 440 source, summit, and found only the “stock” size.
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If you have a factory service manual you can see the pulley sizes they used.

The idiotic aftermarket is so in love with the notion that slowing the water pump down to save 5 HP that they ignore the power they piss away from the cooling system not functioning.
 
yellow rose said:
If you have a factory service manual you can see the pulley sizes they used.

The idiotic aftermarket is so in love with the notion that slowing the water pump down to save 5 HP that they ignore the power they piss away from the cooling system not functioning.
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Or you could just post what pulley it is so everyone can know to include people come across this thread down the road as well.
 
charger426 said:
Or you could just post what pulley it is so everyone can know to include people come across this thread down the road as well.
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I’ll go look it up but I think they used different sized pulleys for different years. I’ll just take a picture of the page and post it here. I don’t want to type all that out.
 
yellow rose said:
I’ll go look it up but I think they used different sized pulleys for different years. I’ll just take a picture of the page and post it here. I don’t want to type all that out.
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Sweet!!! I was under the impression that my water pump was already smaller as the truck it came out of had AC but it looks like it’s the “standard” 6 15/16 with a 4 groove 7 1/2” crank pulley
 
The FSM doesn’t show pulley diameters, just the ratios. I’ll post it up anyway. You should be able to call any pulley supplier and tell them what you want. I’m at 6% over and I’m looking into having a pulley made to get to about 25% over.
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So assuming those charts stayed the same in 78 the Ramcharger that this motor came out of had AC so I should be at 1.25 on the water pump.
 
Be careful when reading those charts. They represent water pump : crank pulley. In other words, ratios greater than 1:1 mean the water pump has a larger pulley and spins slower than the crank. Not too many factory setups spun the water pump faster than the crank.
 
mopowers said:
Be careful when reading those charts. They represent water pump : crank pulley. In other words, ratios greater than 1:1 mean the water pump has a larger pulley and spins slower than the crank. Not too many factory setups spun the water pump faster than the crank.
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Measuring to the best of my abilities with the pulleys on the car water pump pull looks like 6 15/16 and crank is 7 1/2”
 
mopowers said:
Be careful when reading those charts. They represent water pump : crank pulley. In other words, ratios greater than 1:1 mean the water pump has a larger pulley and spins slower than the crank. Not too many factory setups spun the water pump faster than the crank.
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No, look at it closer. They OVERDRIVE the pump for better cooling.
 
yellow rose said:
No, look at it closer. They OVERDRIVE the pump for better cooling.
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I see now. Thanks. I guess the way it's written is not very clear to me. It should say 'turn ratio' or something similar. The way it's written can be read it as 'diameter ratio', or such - at least to a bonehead like me.

Either way, I doubt water pump speed is the OP's issue. He has a 22" radiator trying to cool 505 inches.
 
mopowers said:
I see now. Thanks. I guess the way it's written is not very clear to me. It should say 'turn ratio' or something similar. The way it's written can be read it as 'diameter ratio', or such - at least to a bonehead like me.

Either way, I doubt water pump speed is the OP's issue. He has a 22" radiator trying to cool 505 inches.
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Well I have a flowkooler water pump too. That’s been mentioned several times. At highway speeds the motor cools down. Not saying it I had unlimited funds I would get another rad but if I can get it to stay cool at idle I’ll kick that radiator can down the road.
 
charger426 said:
Well I have a flowkooler water pump too. That’s been mentioned several times. At highway speeds the motor cools down. Not saying it I had unlimited funds I would get another rad but if I can get it to stay cool at idle I’ll kick that radiator can down the road.
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Have you measured the pulleys you have now?
 
charger426 said:
Measuring to the best of my abilities with the pulleys on the car water pump pull looks like 6 15/16 and crank is 7 1/2”
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Well that means that the pump is being overdriven by 7.5% - not bad.
I dont believe you going to get much more that that with factory stuff.
Are you running a high flow thermostat ? Like a Stewart or Milodon?
Sorry if I missed that earlier.
The hi flow pump is pretty much worthless with out a hi flow t-stat.
 
512Stroker said:
Well that means that the pump is being overdriven by 7.5% - not bad.
I dont believe you going to get much more that that with factory stuff.
Are you running a high flow thermostat ? Like a Stewart or Milodon?
Sorry if I missed that earlier.
The hi flow pump is pretty much worthless with out a hi flow t-stat.
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Last time out I had no thermostat in per Evans. The cooling system was able to maintain around 185 and cool down from 220 pretty quickly at 40-50mph in the couple mile stretches I could do around my house. But it shoots up fast when stopped. That’s why Evans says the cooling systems is up to the task but I need more fan capacity.
 
charger426 said:
Last time out I had no thermostat in per Evans. The cooling system was able to maintain around 185 and cool down from 220 pretty quickly at 40-50mph in the couple mile stretches I could do around my house. But it shoots up fast when stopped. That’s why Evans says the cooling systems is up to the task but I need more fan capacity.
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That's good
But remember that engine needs a thermostat for consistent cooling and proper operation for several reasons. You really dont want the coolant temp going up and down while driving around. A correctly sized cooling system will pretty much "hang" on the thermostat temp rating in most driving conditions.
 
charger426 said:
Post #109
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As 512 says, at 7.5% over you should be fine with that.

IMO, the 4 small cores won’t flow enough to keep up with what you have. Two 1.00 or 1.25 cores will out flow your radiator all day long and twice on Sunday.

I agree in not using a thermostat IF you can A) get some temp in the engine so you can have a heater (unless that doesn’t matter to you) and B) you can control engine temp across all the possible climes you drive in.


Where I’m at, it gets down to single digits in the winter but there isn’t a cloud in the sky and the road are dry. So I drive in that weather. Without a thermostat in that temp, I doubt I could get 100 degrees of engine temp. In the summer it hits the 100’s for a quite a bit. Even then, I never hit 180.

I’d look at the radiator.
 
charger426 said:
My fresh 505 stroker is running what I think is HOT. The Autometer gauge is reading 230 at idle with my Edelbrock ProFlo4 saying 220 at idle in my garage at idle. Large garage with the door open. Regardless of which temp I believe both seem really high to me. But before I dump the Evans stuff out for some old fashion 50/50 I wanted to see what others thought as the Evans stuff wasn't cheap.

Set up is below and kept the 440 cool before when it was a motorhome motor with some trickflow heads and a cam. Only change is the stroke, bore, gaskets, rings, cam, water pump and move to EFI

Champion 22" 4 core rad
FlowKooler High Flow pump
180 fail safe thermostat
2 10" electric fans pulling
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I never had any luck with the aftermarket fans. I had twin Flexalite fans and they didn't come close to cooling my engine. I bought a fan for a Chevy HHR ($50.00 through RockaRock Auto) modified it to fit my 26 inch Champion radiator. My Dart now runs 190 degrees in traffic. Actually it runs a little warmer when driving down the road probably about 200 to 205 but it runs much cooler when I'm sitting in traffic.
My Dart used to run HOT in traffic (230°) and I would be rushing to get to the parking spot at the cruise so I could shut it down.

490 HP 418 Stroker

26" Universal Champion Radiator ( no trans Cooler)

Brassworks Water Pump

190 degree high flow Mr Gasket thermostat

Trans Cooler/oil cooler combo with its own electric fan.

The above mentioned fan is a Dorman direct replacement for a Chevy HHR. $50.00 brand new from Rock Auto.
 
superchargeddrt said:
I never had any luck with the aftermarket fans. I had twin Flexalite fans and they didn't come close to cooling my engine. I bought a fan for a Chevy HHR ($50.00 through RockaRock Auto) modified it to fit my 26 inch Champion radiator. My Dart now runs 190 degrees in traffic. Actually it runs a little warmer when driving down the road probably about 200 to 205 but it runs much cooler when I'm sitting in traffic.
My Dart used to run HOT in traffic (230°) and I would be rushing to get to the parking spot at the cruise so I could shut it down.

490 HP 418 Stroker

26" Universal Champion Radiator ( no trans Cooler)

Brassworks Water Pump

190 degree high flow Mr Gasket thermostat

Trans Cooler/oil cooler combo with its own electric fan.

The above mentioned fan is a Dorman direct replacement for a Chevy HHR. $50.00 brand new from Rock Auto.
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Do you have CFM values on that fan and pics of how you installed it? I’ve definitely heard of factory replacement fans sometimes out flowing brand name aftermarket ones and definitely beating them in the bang for buck category. Mustang guys like to use electric fans out of a ford contour (rated at around 3000 cfm) or Lincoln MKVIII (rated at to 4-4500 cfm I think) and all could be had for less than $100.
 
phantomsi said:
Do you have CFM values on that fan and pics of how you installed it? I’ve definitely heard of factory replacement fans sometimes out flowing brand name aftermarket ones and definitely beating them in the bang for buck category. Mustang guys like to use electric fans out of a ford contour (rated at around 3000 cfm) or Lincoln MKVIII (rated at to 4-4500 cfm I think) and all could be had for less than $100.
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I will take a few pictures and see if I have the part number.
 
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phantomsi said:
Do you have CFM values on that fan and pics of how you installed it? I’ve definitely heard of factory replacement fans sometimes out flowing brand name aftermarket ones and definitely beating them in the bang for buck category. Mustang guys like to use electric fans out of a ford contour (rated at around 3000 cfm) or Lincoln MKVIII (rated at to 4-4500 cfm I think) and all could be had for less than $100.
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Here are a few pictures. I had to modify the fan motor mounting (to the shroud) and the ends so they fit my rad. I will see if I can find the specs and or the part number.
 
God if I had that much room my motor would be cool too lol. Small blocks are so much easier to package into these cars.

Might have missed it but is that a 26” rad?
 
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