EWIS anyone ?

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My bulkhead terminals carry little current since most actuate relays in a fuse/relay box I installed (see post). I used a 1965 bulkhead in my 64 to get its much better high-amp feed-thrus. It has separate buss-bars for the ALT and BAT wires. I kept my ammeter active, but installed a diode-bypass that starts shunting direct to battery at higher currents, in case I up the alternator for fans and EFI.[/QUOTE]

Yes, i agree running relays for headlamp low and high beams, electric engine cooling fans etc helps take a lot of load off the bulkhead connector and the small wiring that was originally used. I will be going this route as well.

Matt
 
Sounds like the kind of stuff you don't exactly stumble upon at your local 7-11. We'll see if it's available over here.
Thanks for the tip!
 
If "kind of stuff" means the "56 terminals" (also called "Packard 56" or "GM-style"), I buy them off ebay, which is easy in Sweden too. The only local source might be a GM dealer's Parts Counter, but I avoid dealers (high prices, must walk the gauntlet of salesmen).
 
BillGrissom said:
If "kind of stuff" means the "56 terminals" (also called "Packard 56" or "GM-style"), I buy them off ebay, which is easy in Sweden too. The only local source might be a GM dealer's Parts Counter, but I avoid dealers (high prices, must walk the gauntlet of salesmen).
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I think Anders is talking about the alumiprep 33.

Pico wiring sells the female 14-16 terminals in a pack of 50 for $13.99 i am guessing thats cheaper than ebay. If you were to redo your whole body harness from nose to tail my best guess would be about 100 female connectors. A bit less on the males as the components use male tabs. But for the male ends probably 50. The bulkhead alone takes up to 24 male, 24 female. 2 males and 2 females of which are 10-12 , along with a few10-12 females in the ignition switch plug. Pico wiring is the cheapest forvthese.
 
My Dremel with a fine wire brush attachment worked wonders on the male blades. And every other connection under the hood, including removing battery terminals and posts. Yeah, it made a difference!
 
This is my latest and last EWIS project on the dash wiring. Then i can fit the harness back into a freshly painted instrument panel. I'm about halfway done with it so far.

Matt
 

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Nice and shiny, moparmat!

And yes, BillGrissom, I was referring to the alumiprep. Chemical regulations are quite different btw EU and US.

On a general note, what moparmat is doing here is probably something everyone should be doing. Things can deteriorate severely over the years depending on what climate you live in.

On my old Audi, I got a little over 9 Volts over the bulb in my headlights after 15 years of service, always parked outdoors. I could barely see the road. With the complexity of a modern car, I decided to add a secondary relay in stead and draw a new wire straight from the battery via a fuse. That and cleaning the lenses made the lights shine like new again. Rear lights are still dim, though... Lazy me. :D

Worst case, poor connections can melt connectors or even cause a fire with older, non-UL94-rated plastics. UL94 is a certification that plastics self-extinguish rather than turn your car into a fireball.
 
Btw i bought small steel wire wheels at china freight to put in my drill to buff and polish up all this stuff after chemically cleaning it, and neutralizing it. CLR or tarnex works great on tarnish too.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Btw i bought small steel wire wheels at china freight to put in my drill to buff and polish up all this stuff after chemically cleaning it, and neutralizing it. CLR or tarnex works great on tarnish too.
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Sounds like the kind of stuff you don't exactly stumble upon at your local 7-11. We'll see if it's available over here.
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So does ketchup! Yep, that's right, ketchup, catsup however they want to spell it, lol. That's what I used to clean the contact surfaces and my gauge cluster.

Just rub some on, let it dry up a little and wipe it off with a damp rag.
 
Ketchup who would have thunk it lol.

I actually cleaned out a copper / brass radiator that was 90% plugged with rust from somebody running a car with just water in it using a couple 2 liters of coca cola. Layed it flat with the upper and lower hose connections facing up, and filled it up with soda. I let it sit for 2 weeks, and then flushed it out with hot water. The mild acid in the soda cleaned the copper and brass and loosened and got rid of the rust plugging the passageways.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Ketchup who would have thunk it lol.
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It's the vinegar and salt that does it. You can actually mix the two and get the same results, but the ketchup mix helps it stick. The acidity in the tomato may help too, I don't know. I do know it works, and you don't have the hazard of using chemicals.
 
Ketchup I know we can get over here. :D

It's easy to overlook the housewife tricks. Or life hacks as they tend to be called these days.

Now that you've mentioned it, I think I'm going to try that on my fuel sendeing unit. Thanks!
 
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