Fel Pro thermostat gaskets?

-
coalman

coalman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2015
Messages
1,223
Reaction score
136
Location
Texas
Quick question these don't require sealant, correct?
 
I would put a thin coat of permatex on them.
 
coalman said:
Quick question these don't require sealant, correct?
Click to expand...
sireland67 said:
I would put a thin coat of Permatex on them.
Click to expand...

Hello Coalman,
I Just as Sireland67 stated I also apply a very small amount of Permatex "Ultra Gray" (my choice) by wiping both sides of the gasket with my finger to just have a skim coat on it. Really helps if you have to remove the gasket in the future it will come off with little or no effort.
Stay safe...
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.
 
Thanks for your input, I called Fel Pro, on the blue gaskets, not required if surfaces are in good shape, yes if not.
 
I always do. I glue the gasket to the t stat housing usually with Indian Head gasket shellac but not the intake. SOme use 3M weatherstrip adhesive. That's a little harder to get off next time. The reasons why I seal to the thermostat housing, #1 The intake surface is machined and the tstat housing isn't. #2 You can take the tstat housing off the hose and clean the gasket off with the wire wheel. Scrape off what you can.
 
I sue the ones that are already sticky on one side to hold the thermostat in.
 
Thanks, what do you guys torque the thermostat housing to, on an aluminum manifold?
 
Not quite the same - Hylomar is a solvent-based non hardening blue goop. The nearest locally available Permatex equivalent is #85420 "Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Sealer". Smells and looks identical to genuine Hylomar.

If you really want silicone, you can also use their #22071"Waterpump & Thermostat Housing RTV Silicone Gasket Maker"... definitely coolant resistant ;)
 
Thermostat housings can be a problem

"Back in the day" when housings were good, machined, heavy cast iron, there WAS no problem

Then "Cal China Chrome Custom" came along. And OEM alloy housings. And those silly stamped steel ones

As stated above, always check for flatness

Be careful not to overtighten so as not to warp the housing

Don't use ANY sealer that will act as a lubricant 'slime' and allow the gasket to waltz out of place

Don't overtighten

Be careful you do not overtighten

Be VERY careful not to overtighten
 
Before you go any further take a flat steel ruler and make sure surface is flat. If not go and buy a cast housing, usually a local speed shop will have a good one. Any bow in the surface and you'll never seal it.
 
And the safe thing to use on aluminum intakes is studs instead of bolts. Many used aluminum intakes have stripped tstat threads because of the use of bolts.
 
toolmanmike said:
And the safe thing to use on aluminum intakes is studs instead of bolts. Many used aluminum intakes have stripped tstat threads because of the use of bolts.
Click to expand...

Assuming you have a small-block of course :poke: One of the many things I like about B/RB engines is the "dry" intake manifold :)

Although I do have an aluminum WP housing, so I should put studs in it too. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
DrCharles said:
Assuming you have a small-block of course :poke: One of the many things I like about B/RB engines is the "dry" intake manifold :)

Although I do have an aluminum WP housing, so I should put studs in it too. Thanks for the suggestion.
Click to expand...
It never hurts.
 
I installed today 30 foot lbs, Edelbrock Air Gap, no sealant will see what happens.
Thanks to everyone!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top